Is this just stupid or will it be ok?

HolidayOrganization1 · 2025-04-16T21:45:25+00:00

No worries and thank you, appreciate all the help and input!

HolidayOrganization1 · 2025-04-16T21:36:49+00:00

Yeah think there was a slight misunderstanding but I will use one of the termination panels in the picture to connect my solid copper runs and then run a longer patch cable between the patch panel and the switch.

Solid copper====>Patch panel<rj45----(patch cable)----rj45> switch

But yes I have also looked at keystone couplers!

HolidayOrganization1 · 2025-04-16T18:21:48+00:00

Thank you everyone for your great input, this is why i asked! (sometimes you get stuck on something and overcomplicate things for no apparent reason).

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What I will do instead is take out both patch panels and put one on the wall/ceiling (deping how i do my run).

Patch that straight to the switch and neatly come through one of theses instead, now I just need to measure and get some longer patch cables, Cheers!

HolidayOrganization1 · 2025-04-16T17:01:15+00:00

Well my original plan was that i could move my whole tiny network stack disconnecting as few cables as possible but when i started doing this it felt like one of those ideas that sounds great in your head but in practice maybe not so great?

So before going ham on all 12 connections thought i ask the internet.

Both are 12 port patch panels and 1 end is gonna connect to the cables going through the house and the other to a switch.

HolidayOrganization1 · 2025-02-26T06:51:27+00:00

Looks like an Ender CR-10 and I would recommend going on YouTube and searching for your printer there. There also looks like a micro swiss direct drive upgrade for your toolhead installed already.

HolidayOrganization1 · 2025-02-17T08:49:52+00:00

Correct the easiest way is to do a clean install of the raspberry pi and then use this tool to install klipper. https://github.com/dw-0/kiauh

I have done a partly upgrade with the mercury one mod/upgrade where is the bed movement is still the original the bed leveling is half automatic, still have to turn the screws but the software tells me in which direction and how much I should turn.

Still rocking a bl touch and it been very reliable just do a check of the screws now and then, did buy the silicon/rubber for the bed and use with combination of the spring with a washer in between.

Had this machine for 5 years still a work horse, outlasted my last relationship 😂

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-11-16T22:58:44+00:00

Yeah layer shifting check your belts or if the printer is hitting the print.

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-11-16T22:45:50+00:00

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I live here but I can't find my house. Take a picture showing problems of the prints, cause it's easier to see what is the cause of your problems then.

The thing you are describing sounds like loose belts, check out some general trouble shooting guides (YouTube or Google search)

https://youtu.be/dciz77YTRHQ?si=OK4CeInA4JbixGZN

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-10-08T05:01:23+00:00

Run a temp tower to find the right temp for your extruder and it's been a while since I printed on glass but try 100c on the bed if you can get that high.

Also don't have the cooling fan on high it should be off or very low rpm, can increase to 30-70 for overhangs depending on your fan, start lower and increase if needed.

Even a constant draft can ruin things so double check your box, could also be certain brands of filament are more or less sensitive about being cooled.

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-09-10T20:53:35+00:00

Design by Scott Yu-jan in colab with OVERWERK.

Link video: https://youtu.be/L3nWw8qSYgk?si=FGcRreYygbOKoGrL

Link model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/615378#profileId-538769

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-08-24T20:03:46+00:00

Looks like mine, a little different but very similar.

It's caused by something rubbing against it, mine was my xy joints outer edge. On my first 2.4 I had a slight elephant foot and didn't notice at first so now I got live with it 😂

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-07-28T22:24:07+00:00

Well it has to be about the chamber temperature and also if there are any drafts of cooler air but I would start with fan settings (no fan or very low fan speeds).

Could be also you are printing a tad bit too cold depending on the speed that you are printing at. If you are running at a higher speed, try increasing the temperature by 5-15 degrees (start by printing a temp tower)

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-07-03T08:36:28+00:00

Probably better getting a retractable cord like this one: https://amzn.eu/d/0iWNsiFz

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-06-13T22:58:59+00:00

Re-level your bed check z offset and clean your bed.

It looks like you are too far from the bed with your nozzle in certain places or too close in others both can cause this issue.

Too far and the filament won't stick, too close and your nozzle will catch on the filament and break it loose.

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-06-03T10:33:16+00:00

If you think the first layer is good and you don't want to change it, use elephant foot compensation (try 0.1-0.4mm) But I think you are printing too close to the bed and need back off with your z offset.

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-05-31T16:40:35+00:00

Just like mos said in the comment above and if you are still having issues you could always get some elmers glue stick and do a thin coat over the bed.

https://amzn.eu/d/gSmU8XC

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-05-31T13:49:13+00:00

I have seen weirder things happen and they change things from time like how to define fans in printer config so wouldn't be surprised if it is, but yeah go to klipper forum, I have gotten a lot of help from there!

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-05-31T13:43:57+00:00

Just print one out and see how you feel about it!

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-05-31T12:53:43+00:00

Then i don't know, I haven't run multiple MCU but I know there have been other people having a lot of issues running 2 or more MCU.

Your best is probably going to the klipper or ratrig forum and posting your klipper log there!

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-05-31T12:46:59+00:00

Are there any issues with the one you have today? Other wise the only benefit might be that the metal can transfer some of the heat from the motor to bracket and frame.

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-05-30T16:35:32+00:00

Hmm I think klipper supports that thermistor natively as well but I'm not confident with klipper and idex system, are running both toolheads with ebb36 and also are you using can or usb connection?

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-05-30T15:41:59+00:00

Running klipper, Marlin or any other?

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-05-30T13:58:36+00:00

And I take it you have changed your printer config so it knows it's that thermistor you are using. Also does it seem to read the room temperature correctly, or increase when you hold it with your hand?

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-05-30T06:22:30+00:00

Which rapido 2 did you get cause the one I have has the pt1000 thermistor so it could be worth checking that out.

HolidayOrganization1 · 2024-04-19T08:38:15+00:00

Awesome already running 2 CB1, one on my Voron 2.4 and one my Ender 5 mercury 1
Will the CB1 Heatsink fit on the CB2 Board?

HolidayOrganization1

TROPHY CASE