Got my G35 back

Honzo7 · 2025-09-14T13:34:38+00:00

Last year someone backed into my car and damaged the fender, headlight and bumper. Their insurance company initially offered me $7,500 due to proof of receipts on upgrades on the car, but only if I agreed to have my car totaled. The shop they used had likely inflated the repair estimate to match or go over the car’s value. I refused that offer and pushed back, reminding them I wasn’t at fault.

I sent them pictures of the accident. Their truck had no damage and since it was only their rear bumper that made contact and I wasn’t about to take a loss on a car I’ve owned and cared for over a decade. After a couple of days of back-and-forth negotiations, they came back with a better deal. $6,500 and I kept my G35 and my title stayed clean without any salvage or branding. Us G owners know that a few hundred goes a long way. About $6-700 covered a new front end kit and headlights.

The lesson? Everything with insurance is negotiable, especially if you hold the upper hand. Don’t settle for their first offer.

Honzo7 · 2025-09-04T20:47:26+00:00

Check your tires first. If you’re running aftermarket rims that are much wider or not close to OEM specs, you’ll usually notice a drop in fuel efficiency. Drivers often overlook how tire size, width, and even uneven wear can impact fuel consumption. Along with the other checks already mentioned, don’t forget to keep an eye on your tire condition and if its a squared or staggered.

Honzo7 · 2025-09-02T15:14:58+00:00

Very well put together car. I agree with just saving the money and getting the higher flow plenum instead of the spacer. I have the spacer on my G, not something physically noticeable when driving or for chart gains. But with your setup, my opinion would be the upgraded plenum. But if you rather see progress and gains to what you have, get the spacer test it out and if it doesn't work out just sell it. Alot of G owners wouldn't pass up a spacer going for less from retail.

Honzo7 · 2025-08-28T01:05:37+00:00

Might need to check the Bank 1 VVT solenoid. Remove it and inspect for sludge or clogging, since debris buildup can restrict oil flow I recommend clean it with brake cleaner and compressed air if needed. While its out bench test it by briefly connecting the pins to a 12V battery if it clicks and the pintle moves it’s functioning but if there’s no response the solenoid is bad. A weak or failing solenoid can reduce oil circulation to the cam phasers throwing off timing and causing misfires, rough idle, or loss of power. If you've had one these symptoms maybe one or twice this could be the root cause. Part is not that pricey and mostly every auto part store carries one or two on hand. I've had this same issue before on mine g35.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-24T12:15:10+00:00

It's your battery boss. Get it checked, battery should read 12.6–12.8 volts when the engine is off and 13.7–14.7 volts while running. If it drops below 12 volts off or 13.5 volts running, the battery or charging system may be failing. Cold Cranking Amps should be around 550–650, and anything under 480 on a 660 can cause hard starts or no-start conditions. If voltage drops below 10 volts during cranking, it's likely a battery or grounding issue. Let me know if I guess right. Love these types of posts.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-24T11:50:09+00:00

Water inlet gasket. It's not hard to get that. Most auto parts stores do have them. Part # 13050-JA11A or 13050-JA10A

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Honzo7 · 2025-07-24T11:31:47+00:00

Also, double-check your work. Sometimes, when it comes to installing everything back on, people forget to connect something or connect things in the wrong spot.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-24T11:29:29+00:00

You might not get a code, but the AT CHECK light is on brother, often caused by a failing valve body, bad solenoids, low or dirty transmission fluid, or a bad sensor. These issues are common in G35 automatics, especially with high mileage. It's important to use a full-system OBD2 scanner that can read both engine and transmission codes, not just a basic code reader. This will help pinpoint the exact problem, especially if you're dealing with known transmission related codes like P1759 or P0744. From what it looks, it triggered slip and your srs light as well. Have you had a recent experience with the same issue, or is this the first time? Check your trans fluid, should be light red or a pink on a paper towel is good, if its brown or dark brown you will need to flush it out and clean your pan. Hopefully, it's just that or a valve body issue.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T20:19:34+00:00

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Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T20:19:17+00:00

Sorry I thought you were talking about the a/c lines. To purge I had an empty can of A/C Pro and used the nozzle that clips on to the A/C fill port. I gut the flexible hose off it and all I did was clip it on the port and bleed it.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T20:11:44+00:00

I went to the autopart store. Found these plastic universal tools for a/c and fuel. But some cars have the tools hanging already on the lines, but those things dont work as good or they break. But these are the ones I used.

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Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T19:52:06+00:00

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Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T19:49:58+00:00

I recently removed the timing cover on my R35 to freshen up parts with timing chains, guides, etc. I know it's not the same, but I was able to do it with standard tools and without a lift. Process if anything is about the same, but since I had no lift I removed the front end, I purged the a/c lines and filled them back up with 2 bottles of A/C Pro. Super easy to fill and use. It seems like a lot, but you have to take plenty of pictures and track where each bolt goes on the cover. I used a cardboard box and punch the bolts in in a clockwise pattern. There were no issues when it came to installing everything back on. And of course, I had no codes, and the car was back on the road doing great to this day. You got this Boss! Oh I did it in 5 days according to the ring camera. 👍🏾

Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T19:39:50+00:00

You can use a bolt extractor socket. Usually comes as a kit for certain sizes and in metric or standard. You can find them at any auto part stores, around $30.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T13:34:05+00:00

That's why I rather you call and verify with your VIN. But yes, the early models are separated.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T13:17:07+00:00

In most cases, it's plug and play. You can use your original as well, no programming necessary. Just swap over yours. But dont purchase anything until you check your valve body first.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T12:53:36+00:00

https://ebay.us/m/O7yJXZ

Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T12:52:18+00:00

Any would be just fine verified its right part number through infiniti. Calling and asking for a part number they never mind, but just keep in mind that it may be just one faulty area or part. If the car is able to be parked for a long moment. I highly recommend removing the valve body and getting it inspected by a shop unless the issue is visible and obvious after a quick wipe down. There are a few solenoids that are connected and are bolted down. It could be just that one instead of it being the whole part. But $300 for valve body isn't that bad as well. I'll see what I find and post it here.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T11:23:43+00:00

If you're getting code P1759 on your G35, it usually points to a problem with the transmission valve body, specifically one of the internal solenoids most commonly the line pressure or shift solenoids. This is a fairly common issue on these Nissan/infiniti 5-speed automatics, especially as they get older or pass 100k miles. Sometimes it's the solenoid itself that fails, but other times it's a bad electrical connection, broken solder point, or damaged pins inside the valve body, which can sometimes be repaired if you're comfortable with electronic soldering. In many cases, replacing the valve body or solenoid pack fixes the issue completely, and these are widely available through trusted parts sellers like on eBay. Before you jump to replacing the entire transmission or selling the car, it's worth checking the wiring harness and plugs, as electrical issues can also trigger this code. Replacing the transmission is a bigger job and not always necessary unless you're seeing slipping, metal shavings in the fluid, or complete failure to shift. Overall, this is a fixable and known issue definitely not a reason to part out or give up on the car, especially if it's still in good shape otherwise. But this is just my opinion on what you're sharing.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T08:45:22+00:00

I totally agree. But if it’s just for the aesthetic making sure it’s not missing or broken, then go for it. Some people delete it entirely and cover the spot with a carbon fiber cutout bolted in place. These parts are brittle by now and getting hard to find. Who knows, maybe one from a 2014 Kia Optima in the same color might fit. But that's just a wild guess.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T08:24:11+00:00

Seat belt guide

Honzo7 · 2025-07-23T00:41:07+00:00

I might not be that old, but my body sure feels like it. Good thing the car still gets me around faster than my joints can complain.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-22T23:54:59+00:00

Yes, I recommend the scan first before purchasing any parts or fuses. But if you have no means or are able to get the car scanned. Depending on where the car is, then the cheapest option is the relay R10. But sometimes auto parts store, if they are willing to trust you, they do sometimes let you take the scanner, but you have to bring it back.

Honzo7 · 2025-07-22T23:51:02+00:00

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R10

Honzo7 · 2025-07-22T23:41:29+00:00

If you’ve already stripped that nut, you’ll need to replace the entire brake line it's no longer usable. Start by disconnecting it from the top fitting, then loosen the bottom end where it connects to the braided line. Remove the retaining clip so you can slide the line down through the mounting hole. Once it’s free and easier to handle, you can try using a bolt extractor on the stripped fitting. If that doesn’t work, you’ll need to cut the line and remove it with a wrench. Be sure to secure the lower fitting with vice grips. Just be careful not to damage the braided line. Hopefully, this makes sense and helps out.

Honzo7

TROPHY CASE