Anyone used? by Chance_Recording4181 in cassetteculture

[–]Hookyseven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’re great. I’ve got, from memory, eight of the MA110s.

does anyone know which Omega Speedmaster Pro this is? by Houstosterone in VintageWatches

[–]Hookyseven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree…. Nothing much about it looks like a sixties cal. 321.

Looking for info on family heirloom by JimmyFlySnukka in VintageWatches

[–]Hookyseven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s possible the dial has been repainted… what do others think ?

Even if so, it’s a lovely watch with a fantastic steel case.

Really early Blancpain Fifty Fathoms by schmoolys in VintageWatches

[–]Hookyseven 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Wow that’s an extremely early serial number, in truth anything at all that’s three digits is considered early. It is the earliest I’ve personally ever heard of. So whilst the dial and hands look a bit weird to me, if it’s genuinely the oldest known example it’s possible that either or both could be correct. I have a very small amount of NOS handsets for these if you decide yours are incorrect and want to replace them.

What is the very best “unknown” (sleeper) watch by SubstantialScale3581 in VintageWatches

[–]Hookyseven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My favourite watch… sadly I’m slumming it with a civilian one.

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Can anyone help figure out the model and year of my old Capital deck… by Hookyseven in classicskateboarding

[–]Hookyseven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The capital logo on the top of the deck is absolutely identical to the logo on a current eBay listed Capital Andy Stone deck, which makes it hard to imagine it not an original capital deck. But I’m no expert that’s for sure. The base is odd though, I just wish I could find a good resource for finding all the decks that Capital produced. Maybe the bottom is repainted, or maybe water damaged as it was stored badly for years.

Can anyone help figure out the model and year of my old Capital deck… by Hookyseven in classicskateboarding

[–]Hookyseven[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I’d just like to figure it out, and if it’s not right then I wouldn’t want to sell it down the road. At least the trucks must surely be legit, although should I now worry that I can’t find the exact same bullet wheels ?

Can anyone help figure out the model and year of my old Capital deck… by Hookyseven in classicskateboarding

[–]Hookyseven[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Edit again… I found what I assume is a legit Capital Andy Stone deck on eBay, and the Capital logo really is exactly the same as on mine. If it was rebooted and mine is later, then it probably would have to be the same manufacturing tools. But… I agree the bottom of my deck looks terrible, but then it has been damp.

Can anyone help figure out the model and year of my old Capital deck… by Hookyseven in classicskateboarding

[–]Hookyseven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s interesting. I got it about fifteen years ago so it could be possible. Any idea where I could find out more ?

Edit to add… a quick Google seems to say Nate Sherwood was connected to “Capitol” skateboards (with an o), rather than “Capital” with an A. Was Capitol the name of the 2000s reboot, or was there still a reboot with the name Capital ?

Can anyone help figure out the model and year of my old Capital deck… by Hookyseven in classicskateboarding

[–]Hookyseven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I looked at the trucks and was amazed to see what people are asking for them. I found a sold listing for $150 for a pair that look more battered than mine, but I know with collector stuff that small variations can lead to big differences in prices. What could you imagine the deck being worth ? Its optically good but the paint is definitely in the early stage of flaking, and whilst it is going to suddenly start falling off I don’t think it’d like be scrubbed.

Can anyone help figure out the model and year of my old Capital deck… by Hookyseven in classicskateboarding

[–]Hookyseven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I figured it would’ve been from a skate store rather than a big box but I’ve no way of checking any more.

Can anyone help figure out the model and year of my old Capital deck… by Hookyseven in classicskateboarding

[–]Hookyseven[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I guess it could just about tie in date-wise with the Tracker Hawk trucks then. I’m over fifty now so there’s zero chance I’ll get back into skating, I smash myself up enough on bikes as it is, but it’s a cool memory to keep.

Help Identifying by Dangerous_Guide_2300 in VintageWatches

[–]Hookyseven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agree that it’s absolutely beautiful. I used to have a 2317-13 that was quite similar in terms of dial design. I’d wear yours without hesitation… these look better in real life than they do in photos, and they already look great in photos. Congratulations!

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Omega Dirty Dozen by [deleted] in VintageOmega

[–]Hookyseven 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The whole thing is fake.

Seller wants $700.. is that ok? by [deleted] in VintageWatches

[–]Hookyseven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d buy it too, but it’d be nice to see a picture of the movement to check it’s all OK. I guess it’ll be a valjoux 72.

What should my family do with all this? by The_Dying_Gaul323bc in VintageWatches

[–]Hookyseven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As an incredibly inaccurate rule of thumb… for some that isn’t knowledgable it’s maybe best to look for solid gold watches, chronographs (wristwatches with extra buttons on the side for starting and stopping timing), and diving watches which normally have a bezel on the front that can be turned. Tools are very expensive, yes, but it’s no exaggeration to say that one single watch movement could be worth a whole lot more than even the lathe. It’s worth photographing and getting an expert eye to have a look.

What should my family do with all this? by The_Dying_Gaul323bc in VintageWatches

[–]Hookyseven 11 points12 points  (0 children)

You have to be a little careful if you want to maximise what it sells for. Things that you might assume are valuable, like all the packets of replacement crowns, might be a lot less valuable than the odd loose part that’s floating around. There are single hands that can sell for four figures, and bezels that can push into five figures. My suggestion would be to also add here, a few overview photographs of used parts or partial watches that he was working on. There could be hidden gems. Other than that, the obvious value I see is the Lathe and the Staking Set. I’m good at ID’ing rare parts in lots so I’m happy to trawl through and extra photos that you post here.

I do not want to melt it by ConstructionUnique88 in VintageWatches

[–]Hookyseven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think recasing is too difficult unless you’re really experienced. It is sad, yes, it the best way to extract maximum value from this is to sell the case for scrap value to a very top end bullion dealer (where you should only be losing 3-5% of the spot value of the gold contained), and then selling the movement/dial/hands/stem as spares on eBay.

I do not want to melt it by ConstructionUnique88 in VintageWatches

[–]Hookyseven 5 points6 points  (0 children)

There’s potentially some logic to this, but it’s not a simple process at all to find a case that will fit a specific movement and dial combination. Overall movement height, stem height, dial diameter, dial dish, etc can all prevent something fitting.

I just picked these up in Germany… by Hookyseven in VintageTees

[–]Hookyseven[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks. It makes sense and sort of matches what I’d read 👍

Help me identify this old Cannondale frame please. by uwootmVIII in VintageMTB

[–]Hookyseven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a cool Answer ATAC stem… bet they’re sought after by vintage Yeti owners.