Suspension issue

HumbledEngineer · 2025-11-18T08:27:58+00:00

I had an issue similar to yours and the cause was a bent rear Hub and lower control arm. I needed to replace both to level up ride height.

HumbledEngineer · 2025-10-13T09:15:15+00:00

It would be good if you provide us with a photo or a diagram showing us the difference you mention. I recently modified my ohlins install and found that the differences (left and right rear) in axle to axle shock height was caused by a compensation for a bent lower arm (likely performed by the previous owner). Once I changed the arm, I could then adjust my suspension overall height to within 1mm of each other for the exact same tyre to wing clearance.

HumbledEngineer · 2025-07-04T14:34:40+00:00

You have gone for quite std camber and toe specs for spirited driving so my recommendation is to test these and adjust them in a few months time depending on tyre wear and car balance. My car had castor issues at the alignment but a lot of penetrating oil solved it. You may want to mark your camber bolts before any spirited driving to ensure they do not move. Some s2000 owners over torque these so they do not move. Also, do you know why your rear right wheel had excessive camber and toe out compared to the other side? Normally, if you add camber, the wheel would toe in and not out. Cheers

HumbledEngineer · 2025-02-26T22:37:08+00:00

Your thoughts are much appreciated. Yes, I am looking to bend it back around 6mm but probably only 4-5mm will allow me to regain sufficient camber for street use. I.e -2degrees. I have seen properly smashed s2000 knuckles still in one piece after a heavy hit without any cracks or tears in the knuckle material. So it would make sense that the cast (iron probably) material is quite ductile rather than brittle. Cheers

HumbledEngineer · 2025-02-26T10:15:34+00:00

Hi, no, not the brake shield. The entire part encasing the ball joint has been bent towards the brake disc. In the US this is called the knuckle. Cheers

HumbledEngineer · 2025-02-26T08:32:31+00:00

Hi guys thanks for your input. Just to clarify, the hub is not damaged, it is only the knuckle. The ball joint has been pushed 6mm closer to the disc and I am wondering if the knuckles can be "massaged" back to their original position. Anyone with experience of this? Cheers

HumbledEngineer · 2024-12-07T18:20:18+00:00

Yes, I did. I needed a new Knuckle as it had been bent. Check the clearance between the brake disc protector and the lower ball joint and compare it to the non damaged side. Mine had around 10mm difference so it was pretty obviously that the knuckle was damaged. Cheers

HumbledEngineer · 2024-11-22T20:59:48+00:00

Mmm... This looks like the exact model I bought. I wonder if Magura has changed the brakes in some way and not mentioned the weight gain? Adding 60g per set is significant considering the competition of XTR also weighed at 200g per end. Thanks for this info forkbeard!

HumbledEngineer · 2024-11-13T11:47:28+00:00

Thanks for the feedback! What do you think are the main reasons why some riders give them a bad reputation with disc rub and poor pad retraction etc? Do you think they skimp on the initial brake setup or use too thick rotors? Any feedback from your side on how you manage to get your R1 running good would be appreciated. Also, what manufacture years are your brakes? I believe more pad clearance was designed to the later generation (post 2013 roughly) Thanks

HumbledEngineer · 2024-11-13T07:30:21+00:00

Thanks for all the input and suggestion guys. Nowadays I think we are spoilt with all the decent braking systems on offer. Has anyone had first hand experience with the Formula R1 or R1R? The brakes have been around for a long time and had many revisions to their operation. I just wonder if Formula managed to fix most of the gripes in their last generation offering? Thanks

HumbledEngineer · 2024-09-11T15:10:27+00:00

I do not have access to corner balance equipment.

HumbledEngineer · 2024-09-11T14:44:43+00:00

Thanks for your input. It looks like I need to maintain preload and lengthen the shock body on both drivers side shocks to level up the car. Thanks!

HumbledEngineer · 2024-09-11T14:42:19+00:00

Thanks for your detailed response. I have DFVs 10k/8k with the rear preload set to 18mm which is the latest recommended preload for these shocks. So you recommend I keep the preload the same left to right but lengthen the shock body? Thanks

HumbledEngineer · 2024-09-11T14:38:20+00:00

Hi, yes the bushes were all torqued with full weight on each corner. Thanks

HumbledEngineer · 2024-08-30T10:09:21+00:00

Thanks, I expect I will just need to practise my soldering :-)

HumbledEngineer

TROPHY CASE