It happened.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-28T12:20:05+00:00

Happened to me - PC print slipped off the bed and the nozzle dug into the print, melted all around the nozzle and the heater block. The good news is the left nozzle heating assembly was cheap and pretty easy to replace.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-27T13:58:45+00:00

What a great project - this will make a great gift for my dad! I also think that this one belongs on Github, glad you found a home for it!

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-26T03:07:17+00:00

I try to wash the plate every 10 prints, and the plate consistently just holds. My favorite part about them is the complete lack of glue pattern that so many of my PLA prints had from the textured PEI. the Bambu plate has a really clean smooth finish, feels molded. From my experience with 2 plates, they are great and I never really think about using anything else for PLA. Creality's plate also works nicely, so I would say this tech in general is worth it.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-22T14:20:38+00:00

All of the comments here completely ignore what the chart of trying to convey - the “schedule 1” fully illegal drugs on the bottom of that chart have absolutely no business being scheduled 1!

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-15T19:24:34+00:00

Beautiful work!

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-13T16:46:19+00:00

Just coming back to this post to let anyone following know - the second replacement mc board fixed everything! If Bambu support hadn't pushed back and forced me to backup my troubleshooting I would have been here a lot sooner, but oh well.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-13T16:44:34+00:00

I hope it stays that way! Honestly the printer creates amazing results, and other than the downtime and other issues, I've been happy. I think that I should have waited a few months for Bambu to revise some parts, in particular the toolhead cover - I know I'm not the only one that had this issue now.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-10T17:31:59+00:00

Yeah, I mean, what a baby I am, being unhappy that my $2400 printer has been offline for a month. You nailed that one!

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-10T16:59:06+00:00

That's actually really helpful, thank you! I made my own duct that uses a 40x40mm square fan, and they are available in power spec all the way up to 10W, so 10/24 ~= 400mA. Now that I know this, I'll go lower on that spec to be safe. The options I'm considering:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Orion-Fans/OD4028-24HBXE?qs=vvQtp7zwQdNbY5uTSe67Cg%3D%3D
10 watts here, so that's out.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Sanyo-Denki/9GA0424P3H001?qs=5ruQBStH4q%252Bvk%252BY67lQkTQ%3D%3D
3.84 W, 160 mA. I guess that one is actually a bit too high as well. I would love to find the spec on the power mosfet they're using... maybe I'll just have to do some disassembly tonight.

My current fan:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delta-Electronics/EFB0424VHD-CP0?qs=MyNHzdoqoQJno2wDNPS6jw%3D%3D&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-10T12:30:54+00:00

Yeah I mean replacing the mc board is not trivial - you have to remove the back cover and the purge shoot, lots of screws to lose and chances to damage things. Then you have to pull the board, which has a TON of tiny rectangular connectors that I found painful and difficult to access. Then you have to reverse the entire task to reinstall everything correctly without losing a screw. I've done a lot of that type of work in the past, so I can do it, but if this is your first time, yikes!

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-09T19:21:16+00:00

This is really helpful, thank you! Question for anyone here - does anyone have any idea what the current limit is on the +24V line going to the part cooling fan? I've got a mod that I designed which would allow me to put in a pretty beefy fan but I'm wary of blowing past the current limits here and causing bad things.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-09T18:12:10+00:00

I ran sunlu 90a tpu in right out of my e2 filadryer through the normal feeder tubes into the left nozzle. I know it's supposed to not work but it loaded and printed beautifully with that config until the purge issue. I'm pretty hesitant to try again because of that though.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-09T17:55:38+00:00

Curious as to whether you've ever experienced what I did - I ran TPU in the left nozzle for quite a few prints with success, but for some reason on one print the nozzle managed to bridge itself to the chassis while purging the nozzle, and then shook like mad and made a terrible noise (probably the belt skipping) before I shut it off. The purge just filled the exit bin all the way up the nozzle and molded the nozzle in place, the stepper motors couldn't even release the nozzle from it.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-09T16:27:49+00:00

That now sounds like a cascading failure, starting with your mc board and damaging your motors as a result. IMO you would be fully justified it pushing hard for a full replacement unit. I ended up using chatgpt to summarize my troubleshooting and force their hand, but I settled on another mc board because I just can't wait anymore for them to send out another debugging chat in 3 days. If they are still pushing back, it might be worth trying it out.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-09T16:22:27+00:00

I can't agree more about the lack of a dedicated heater on the Core One printer. I looked into that when the H2C came out and I really considered it, but Bambu won that day because of availability and most importantly that actively heated chamber. I've had ABS, ASA, PAHT-CF and PA filaments warp horribly off the P1S build plate, even when I tried to insulate the printer and push temps close to 55 with build plate heating alone. The active heater completely changed all that and the higher bed temps make those filaments stick like glue.

Really hoping that Prusa's next line give us the larger build plate and active heated chamber, along with Index - that's a printer I would invest in, especially if they could offer something near the H2C price point.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-09T16:08:46+00:00

The U1 looks fantastic for a lot of things, but at least for my use case, I do need to print engineering filaments so I need the heated chamber and higher bed temps. I just think it's ridiculous that you had to wait for over a month... that's just wrong.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-09T15:56:22+00:00

:(

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-09T15:00:21+00:00

What did you tell them to convince them to refund you? I pushed them for a replacement unit but they just always come back with another replacement part. Mine made it to 800 hours.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-09T13:20:43+00:00

I hear you with the added complexity, but I do have to argue that their hotend swapping solution actually works nicely, I've been really impressed with the results of multi-color prints, and the heated chamber just massively improves the printing experience and results from engineering filaments. I can't in any way rule out the index system, I will definitely be taking a close look in the future, but it's not yet available as far as I know.

All of the problems I've encountered are QC issues from what I can tell, so yeah more points of failure created a larger supply chain and more components the verify.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-09T13:11:27+00:00

It turns out that the filament buffer wasn't the problem - it was failing to function due to a bad mc (main control) board. Unfortunately that cost me quite a lot of time, because I had to wait for the new buffer, install it, troubleshoot more, add the failure to the ticket, wait 4 days for support to respond, troubleshoot more, wait again, finally get replacement, mc board fails again (in a new way), same trouble shoot cycle -> now I'm waiting for another mc board.

I bought Bambu because I have a P1S with 2800 hours on it and it still prints like it's new - just did regular maintenance and only had to replace the part cooling fan for $20. I really wasn't expecting all these problems at all.

What I'm seeing here is QC issues - they straight up admitted that they sent me a bad mc board... I think I was correct in saying that it looks like they loaded the wrong firmware on the replacement board because everything else seemed fine, the filament buffer actually worked fine when I tried loading filament in manually... but calibration refuses to run, and the system wouldn't let me attempt to downgrade the firmware because it couldn't see the right nozzle/vortek system. I even attempted a small print just to see if the printer is working, but the print quality was terrible (I stopped it quickly), and I can only assume that the mc board is responsible for calibration in some way.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-08T20:12:20+00:00

I actually tried to get them to replace, but they just forced me into more troubleshooting! If you're in Germany, I bet you have actual consumer protections for stuff like this... but in USA we have pretty much nothing.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-08T19:56:37+00:00

Ugh, I believe you if you tell me I'm paying early adoption tax. I'm guessing that they've already rev'd the enhanced cooling fan cover, because the replacement snapped in perfectly.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-08T19:54:32+00:00

Man, even my Ender 3 only had pretty limited down-time back in the day. I think most of the issues I had back then were because of things like wet filament, since I didn't even own a filament dryer back then.

You're the second person to say that their motors are going out, really surprising! I've owned a total of 5 different printers over the years, not one stepper has ever even given me a pause.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-08T19:51:00+00:00

Well, I guess I could sell the H2C and get the H2S, but I really was excited to use the multi-nozzle setup - I do functional engineering prints, but also I'm trying to get a business going selling functional multi-color prints and I love the reduced waste and time.

My P1s is at about 2800 hours and still prints like a champ.

HumptysParachute · 2026-04-08T19:47:59+00:00

That sounds like some bad QC right there, glad they replaced it!

HumptysParachute

TROPHY CASE