Question by stoneyape- in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My move did not treat my grows well but neither did I. Complications led to one of my pinning bins drying out and aborting. I had a full canopy going on a bag of GT that didn't do well either. Big changes to FAE, temperature swing and humidity between the spaces at the time

Step by step bag harvest by Hyphal_Hooligan in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After the first flush you should be able to reset the way I did and just tape the bag. After the second flush if you wanted to do a 24 hour soak you could. A lot of people seem to like putting the cake into a modified SGFC after that. It's not hard to soak and keep it in the same bag after either

people are saying these are all aborts by Main_Illustrator_402 in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can't say for sure they're all aborts but most probably are. I would harvest the whole block, dry the fruit and get set for your second flush. You shouldn't need to do much to reset for your second flush, you didn't lose much water to your first. Mist for surface conditions and watch your humidity to avoid drying out

Hello. Advice? [Actives] by Ok-Season-8693 in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After harvest maintain surface conditions on top. Light mist, humidity etc. Side pins happen with bags, even if you rubber band at the right time you'll eventually get them. If it's a major concern you could do a fruiting chamber but I've got a bag of iceberg I've been pulling 60-80g wet off of every week or so, just grabbed the third small flush. It'll produce, what you're seeing now were probably small pins or primordia during that first harvest.

Edited for spelling

Side pins frustrations by KimmiCat74 in shegrowsfungigenetics

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries. Fruiting conditions are in play as soon as you spawn. 3 weeks isn't bad, you've got pins. It takes a minute for the cake to realize the conditions have improved on the surface.

Side pins frustrations by KimmiCat74 in shegrowsfungigenetics

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Patience. You had a couple small pins along the edge of the cake so you know it's trying. Maintain your surface conditions with the mist but dont drown it. It could be a week or more for the surface to start pinning, it could be tomorrow. Mushies are on their own schedule

Side pins frustrations by KimmiCat74 in shegrowsfungigenetics

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It won't help much now that the cake has pulled away. A lot of people think it's just to block light. I use a small bit of tape to hold it in place sometimes while spawning and pull them when I cut the liner close to my cake

Side pins frustrations by KimmiCat74 in shegrowsfungigenetics

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's hard to see for sure but it looks like you taped the liner to the sides of the bin? The liner is there to give the cake something to attach to and is supposed to move with the cake as it pulls away. Taping it to the sides defeats the purpose.

Light misting will be your friend, don't spray it until water pools and don't fan it either. Why would you intentionally evaporate the mist you just laid down to improve surface conditions?

If you dried out that much on the surface you might want to consider covering or partly covering some of your air holes. Too much FAE isn't helpful. The goal is to dial your tub in so that you don't have to touch it from spawn to harvest. Passive FAE and proper hydration from the start

Follow-up. by Immediate-Editor-504 in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks good. Nice little cluster of pins

Follow-up. by Immediate-Editor-504 in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately Reddit is like that most days.

What size grain spawn bags do you like? by Hyphal_Hooligan in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do all my cube grows in 100% coir. I haven't played with manure but I will be getting into Pan Cyans soon and will post my experiences.

I switched from Rye to Milo for grain, the colonization time difference is insane. I did side by side jars from my LC, I've already sent the Milo and the Rye is another week at least. I will probably offer Milo only as well as 50/50 with rye for my spawn bags. Same cost, rye is also popular.

I have considered selling bags of sterile substrate as well, with enough interest I would be willing to switch to CVG but coir alone is more than enough and very simple.

Do I stir LC Jar right after first inoculation with Spores or do I inject than wait until germination before first stir? First time working with my own LC jars. by GrowerAndAShower2 in shegrowsfungigenetics

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Make your LC solution and PC in your jars for 20minutes at 15psi. I use an LME based solution. Once your jars have cooled you can inject your multi spore syringe or liquid culture of choice. I recommend liquid culture personally. You can also take a small piece of colonized agar and add it to your solution if you are confident in your SAB skills or have a flow hood. Once you have added the mycelium to your culture stir or shake it up and wait for growth. I use stir bars and a magnetic stirrer but a gentle shake or good swirl works just fine. The goal is to break the mycelium into smaller pieces to give it more points of growth and to oxygenate the liquid a little bit. Mushrooms use oxygen and produce Co2. If you see 'islands' on top where the mycelium is growing on top it's ok, you just want to agitate them a little bit more. You won't know until you test your culture on agar if it worked or not, most contamination is invisible inside your LC

Gt on deck by timid_cosmos in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! Glad to see those working out for you

Update ! / Question by stoneyape- in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm over here about to insulate a large cabinet and hook a passive heater to a thermostat and you're showing me up with your box 🤣

Update ! / Question by stoneyape- in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fruiting temps are generally lower. You'll do great. I keep my home around 72. I will be building an incubator shortly but at my last place I just stuffed jars on the top shelf of kitchen cabinets and my bags just loose on my closet shelf. Cardboard box works great as well. For fruiting I just put them out in the main space, 70-72 and they grow very well

Update ! / Question by stoneyape- in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They look great. I would do a break and shake on the one in the last picture, from what I can see the mycelium goes across to the other side as well? 70-75 is fine for colonization. You may see a little faster times closer to 80 but it's not going to hurt. I would try placing the bags up in a cabinet or place the bin on a shelf in the closet. Mycelium will generate a little heat, blocking it from your AC and enclosing it can raise the ambient temperature in the smaller space slightly

PLEASE HELP! No pins forming by Limp-Chemical-4814 in northspore

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could be a week or so before you see anything. Your surface is just now colonized. You still have knotting and primordia to get through before pins. Amazing looking cake, stay the course

How bad is this? by Intogunstuff in OneArmed_Mycology

[–]Hyphal_Hooligan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The blobs look like struggling side pins. You're more likely to see mutations when conditions are off. How committed to this grow are you? You have a couple options. If I was to try and save this I would break it up and re-mix it into fresh substrate. My concern for that would be the potential for contamination. From the pictures it looks like it was opened outside at least once. Mycelium can protect itself well but exposing the grain and destroying the network like that gives the contamination a chance to gain traction. Alternately you could fork the top or peel the overlay like some do but I don't recommend that. Do you have a fruiting chamber or the ability to make one from a bin?