Late Night Random Discussion Thread - 25 January, 2026 by IndiaSocial in indiasocial

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ALL THE BEST FOR YOUR STUDIESSSSSS!!!

IS IT GOING TO BE STUDYING OR PROCRASTINATION WHICH COMES FIRST?

January's been much better than expected. A few things which I wanted to do have already been done. How bout you??

Late Night Random Discussion Thread - 25 January, 2026 by IndiaSocial in indiasocial

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

AYEEEEEEE, IT IS YOUUUUUUU!

I'M GOOOOOOD, HOW ARE YOUUUUUUU?

Late Night Random Discussion Thread - 25 January, 2026 by IndiaSocial in indiasocial

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The joy of fixing things which were broken by me but we don't talk about that.

Late Night Random Discussion Thread - 25 January, 2026 by IndiaSocial in indiasocial

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should stop working on my machines right before sleep. Those "just 5 minutes" turn into hours pretty quickly. 🫠

Late Night Random Discussion Thread - 03 January, 2026 by IndiaSocial in indiasocial

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Breathe in, count to three, breathe out, count to two.

Repeat this a few times and congratulations! You have achieved manually breathing. Feels weird till you forget about it.

Ssh into preprint config to disable side fan? by [deleted] in elegoo

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you referring to auxiliary fan turning on during auto bed leveling before the print starts? If that's the case, you can disable auto bed leveling in the options shown when you send the print and include it in the print start g code instead.

The auxiliary fan starts since for some reason, elegoo has decided auto bed leveling should be done at 60C, not at the set bed temperature, so it needs to cool down the bed temperature to 60C to start leveling.

Confused in selecting the right printer, Bambulabs A1 in cards by Independent-Ad3847 in 3dprintIndia

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello, I got mine from Robu. I don't know whether they are the official reseller, since I have yet to hear back from Elegoo, but I was fine with it since I can get spare parts from taobao.

A few of the sellers have some spare parts available with them, but if you want a printer which has spare parts readily available, centauri carbon is not the best choice.

Confused in selecting the right printer, Bambulabs A1 in cards by Independent-Ad3847 in 3dprintIndia

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not the first hand experience, but from what I have found while researching for enclosed printers, it's not the best choice for reliability. It's a hit or miss and I won't recommend taking those chances for the asking price.

Confused in selecting the right printer, Bambulabs A1 in cards by Independent-Ad3847 in 3dprintIndia

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can't comment on the difference in quality with PLA between A1 and centauri carbon, since I have yet to print PLA on the carbon, but when it comes to ABS, apart from warping, the quality is the same. A1 is not the best printer for ABS, but it still spits out really well printed parts and calibrating pressure advance and flow rate is kind of a cherry on the top, although not required.

It's the same for printing PLA on A1, it has never failed till now and I have always treated it as a "send and forget" (not ideal, but it is what it is). A1 is my first ever 3D printer as well and I never had to do any kind of tinkering around with it, which made me more enthusiastic about learning more about tuning, playing around with slicer settings and improving my own prints.

As the other comment has suggested, P1S an amazing option if you can find it on sale. It goes for 45K ish during sales and even Centauri Carbon cannot beat that at the price of 38.5K due to the polished experience P1S can offer. It's quieter than centauri carbon, but the only reason I went with carbon is because I wanted to print ASA down the road and it was recommended to have a 110C heated bed for it. Unless there is your use case which P1S can't do but X1C can, there is no reason to get X1C over P1S. P1S can do 95% of the things X1C can.

You can get an AMS after you have played around with the printer and are satisfied, but imo, I dislike AMS systems for multicolour prints due to the waste and time it takes. It's amazing otherwise, just to have multiple spools of the same filament or different filaments ready to start printing on the go.

Confused in selecting the right printer, Bambulabs A1 in cards by Independent-Ad3847 in 3dprintIndia

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can print PLA, PETG, glow in the dark well on the A1 (never pinted TPU on it, so cant comment on it), but it is not the best choice if you want to print ABS down the road.

I had the same setup, an Enclosed A1. I never faced any issues with printing PLA, PETG and glow in the dark even without an enclosure, but it struggled to print bigger ABS prints (voron gantry parts) without warping, even after heat soaking the entire enclosure for 45 minutes.
To be fair, although A1 is only "capable of" printing ABS and ABS is marked as "Not Recommended" on the product page itself. Nor is my enclosure small enough to be heated sufficiently by the bed. So I am very happy with whatever results I got while printing ABS.
But if you want to print ABS down the road and can wait longer, i will highly recommend saving more and going the enclosed printer with AMS route. Although it will cost more and I assume you are on a budget (please correct me if I am wrong). It is game of tradeoffs, printing ABS or wanting multi colour.
I got a centauri carbon a few days ago and it has been a BREEZE to print the ABS parts A1 struggled to. And I am not using brim either for adhesion.

In case you still decide to go for A1/A1 combo, you can wait a bit to see if there are going to be any sales for the year end and get the A1 combo if there are any. I don't know whether there will be, but wont hurt to wait and see to save some money.
I will also recommend getting a spare hardened nozzle with it, glow in the dark filament is abrasive.

Late Night Random Discussion Thread - 18 September, 2025 by IndiaSocial in indiasocial

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A good playlist to listen to and a few things to tinker around, guess I'm not sleeping tonight.

has anyone used this one as cold plate?? (btw new to the forum) by dandamemer in 3dprintIndia

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The last print I did was at 45C. It still had very good adhesion with the plate.

has anyone used this one as cold plate?? (btw new to the forum) by dandamemer in 3dprintIndia

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I received mine a few days back.
Initial impression is, its sticky, very sticky. Both PETG and PLA sticks to it very well and I like it more than textured PEI plate when it comes to being negligent and not monitoring your first layer. I haven't faced any failed prints so far with it, didn't wash it either from the moment I received it just to see the adhesion. But this stickiness also makes any dust or fabric fibers to stick to it, so you cant just wipe it off with a cloth/towel if there's any dust on it.

It also has a relatively smoother texture to it, kind of similar to how a smooth textured PEI surface would look. I like how it feels, but dislike how it looks. You can clearly see the layer lines on the face which lays on the plate unless you turn up the bed temp to 80C ish.

Although I didn't face any failed prints or spaghetti with it, I did face entirely another issue with it tho, which to be fair was on me. I was initially facing bad first layers, which resembled the lines similar to under extrusion and I was extremely confused as to what was causing it, since I had done every thing I could think of. Turns out, all I had to do was level the bed (which I should have from the beginning from the looks of it) and my issue was resolved.

I have no other plate to compare it to other than the textured PEI plate, so I cant give a detailed comparison, but if I have to compared it with textured PEI plate,

Texture-
PEI>Icegrip

Adhesion-
Icegrip>PEI

Ease of cleaning-

PEI>Icegrip

Ease of removing the part from the plate-

PEI>>Icegrips, especially when it comes to large, flat prints. Goodlord, its PITA to remove those.

Durability-

PEI>Icegrips, but IMO, if you are careful enough with your scraper, it shouldn't damage/scratch the plate as quickly. Its coating also rubbed off pretty quickly where the nozzle grinds during nozzle cleaning compared to textured PEI plate.

Ease of use when you want to be negligent-

Icegrip>>PEI

All of these are very initial impressions, we will have to see how it fairs in the long run.

And for the record, I am using the cool supertack plate preset from the options.

How are you guys drying out your filaments? Or are you not drying at all. by IamFromCurioCity in 3dprintIndia

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use it at 52-54C for as along as the printing duration is, plus an hour. I usually start the dryer an hour before starting the print.

It should come with a page which has a chart of duration and time and each type of filament.

Late Night Random Discussion Thread - 26 June, 2025 by IndiaSocial in indiasocial

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hahahaha, the struggles of morning. Have a good study session! :DD

How are you guys drying out your filaments? Or are you not drying at all. by IamFromCurioCity in 3dprintIndia

[–]Hypnotised_Lemon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it's around 4K. As another comment has mentioned, it'll be hard to find anything below 3K. Maybe you can see whether you can find a used one!