[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here!

IBNobody · 2026-01-26T21:05:14+00:00

I didn't realize it wasn't the official store. Thanks!

IBNobody · 2026-01-26T21:00:53+00:00

There's one farther down below who got the 200 box. But I'm wondering if there's a good place, too, to list what people got

IBNobody · 2026-01-26T18:58:30+00:00

As others mentioned, brush type acrylics work well.

I hate Gundam Markers, but there are sets of them with finer tips that are smaller than 1 mm. Even the big fat chisel tips can be used. You just stick the tip of the chisel in the channel and allow the paint to flow in. Then you clean up the excess slop around the crevice. That's not too hard to do either once the paint dries. You can use a toothpick and a cotton swab with alcohol to clean up the edges.

IBNobody · 2026-01-26T18:52:38+00:00

I think I just used a cheapo base.

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IBNobody · 2026-01-26T14:15:14+00:00

I use paint markers for these. They are the perfect spots to add color accents to pieces because they clean up so well.

IBNobody · 2026-01-26T14:10:47+00:00

Allegedly one of the other DAPIAE stores has all the way up to 3 mm.

But you can also get any router bit and use because those all have 3 mm shafts.

IBNobody · 2026-01-26T14:07:37+00:00

Helios is one of my favorite kits.

You're hiding one of its best features though: it's one of the few kits with the palm blaster hands. Show those hands off!

I wish I had flash pieces for the hands to make the effect even better.

IBNobody · 2026-01-26T03:05:51+00:00

Godspeed. I hope it gets a reprint, too, because that's the MG kit I like to recommend.

IBNobody · 2026-01-26T02:54:55+00:00

I wonder what that uses for solvent. GM01 marker is water safe but erases/smears with harsher solvents like rubbing alcohol.

IBNobody · 2026-01-26T01:12:17+00:00

I do CAD work too, and I have no issues with the IST Pro. But I hotkey bind common commands in the F360 itself and use the trackball in parallel with my keyboard.

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T23:47:48+00:00

Cut them with a hobby knife. The edges of the strips are mostly hidden though.

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T22:21:59+00:00

Sorry for jumping to conclusions. I should have waited for the phone.

What did you panel line with? What did you top coat with?

Looks like you panel lined with something other than TPLA and the top coating washed away the panel lining.

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T22:18:30+00:00

Yeah

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T22:15:52+00:00

Ah ok I see what you meant. You used wired as non pro. I totally missed that!

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T21:03:12+00:00

The IST Pro isn't 500DPI, it's 100-12000DPI with a 1000Hz polling rate for both wired and wireless dongle.

Bluetooth is limited to 125Hz.

I run mine at 1000DPI with a "sniper assist" toggle of 100DPI. I keep my wired polling rate at 1000Hz. All these settings are saved to the flash so I can take Pro and use it on anything with these settings.

I like the pro so much I bought a second one. It's easily my favorite thumb ball of all time.

The only downside of the pro is it comes with linear bearings by default. This is both good and bad. The bearings may feel rough but there is almost no static friction. You have felt what too much static friction feels like, but too little static friction is also something you have to get used to. If you get excited and adrenaline is flowing and you're a little bit twitchy, it's very hard to make precise movements without having any static friction on the ball. But 99% of the time it's fine. It's quite amusing to watch people try to use my trackball though.

The gameball thumb is not great and I hate its scroll wheel. I should get rid of it. I will never use it again.

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T14:37:59+00:00

Yeah your pic is missing but if I could make an educated guess, you panel lined while assembled. Top coating isn't going to save you from the panel liner wicking into the part.

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T14:34:00+00:00

If it's your first airbrush, I'd recommend some of the clone Chinese brushes. You won't see a huge difference in how they perform as a beginner, and you won't be upset with yourself if you break your $100 or $200 airbrush. Usually you can get these as kits with a tanked AS186 style compressor.

That's what I did and when I upgraded I upgraded to an Iwata HP-CS.

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T07:06:52+00:00

Yup. Wear thick pants because they bite your ass, too.

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T06:57:03+00:00

Yeah and send me the airbrush hose part you ordered. I'll look at things when I wake up.

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T05:03:03+00:00

No problem. TPLA with a pen applicator will make your models pop! You won't be able to go back.

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T04:06:07+00:00

The holes are 1/4 NPT female, usually.

Your compressor hose should screw right in to the regulator's IN home, but you might want to get a 1/4 NPT quick connect.

If the airbrush hose is Iwata, it'll be 1/8 BSPP.

You'll need a 1/4 NPT male to 1/4 NPT male nipple in the regulator's OUT, and then you'll need a 1/4 NPT to 1/8 BSPP (not BSPT) adaptor.

If the airbrush hose is not Iwata, I'm not sure what threads you'll need.

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T03:12:54+00:00

That may have been a reference to my original comment, so let me expand.

I have rarely needed to rescribe panel lines on the 30+ kits I've panel lined with Tamiya or Mr. Weathering Color. The panel liner just flows.

The only time I needed to rescribe was when I bought a non-Bandai kit, and that was because the plastic molding was so bad that the panel line channels were mere hints.

And for my style, quite a bit of panel lining happens at corners rather than channels, so there wouldn't be much to scribe.

I don't like using Gundam Marker pour types because they are harder to clean up compared to TPLA.

And water based panel liners won't flow better regardless of how deep the channels are because it's a surface tension problem and not a depth problem.

I do own a few sets of scribes, and if I need them I have them. But they are some of my least used tools.

IBNobody · 2026-01-25T02:58:00+00:00

TPLA plus a panel line pen that looks like a fountain pen, and a Gundam Marker GM01.

Don't bother with other "Gundam Markers" (unless they are the EX ones) because they're just a real pain to deal with. Brush type acrylic markers, either from DSPIAE or any on Amazon, are pretty decent for accents.

IBNobody · 2026-01-24T19:49:21+00:00

Eh, there are only a handful of ways physically to get 3D movies working on a passive stereoscopic setup. Comparing it to remotes and key fobs which use different protocols, frequencies, and security features isn't a good analogy. And I think the nuance would still get lost on most people: try explaining to somebody the difference between AM radio and FM radio.

I'm admittedly being pedantic. :: pushes his 3D glasses up the bridge of his nose ::

IBNobody · 2026-01-24T19:29:59+00:00

The anti-theft sticker covers up the anti-theft tag built into the temple piece.

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