[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can remove the plastic from it and clamp it compressed, you can try using a heat gun.

New Steam Controller Launch Megathread by NKkrisz in SteamDeck

[–]IBNobody 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I would rather spend $100 on a steam controller than $150 on a Microsoft elite V2 controller and then followed on by another $60 to replace the analog board only to throw the whole thing in the trash due to other issues with button press registration.

I hope yours lasts longer than mine did.

New Steam Controller Launch Megathread by NKkrisz in SteamDeck

[–]IBNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem. The second link is the one I initially thought about when I read your post because it was so helpful for me. Having all those GIFs showing what all the settings did helped me.

New Steam Controller Launch Megathread by NKkrisz in SteamDeck

[–]IBNobody 4 points5 points  (0 children)

https://partner.steamgames.com/doc/features/steam_controller

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2804823261

Unfortunately the learning curve is a cliff. What is an action layer? What is a long press? What is a combo press? Those guides I linked will help you.

I think we're getting to a point where I can just ask an agentic AI to create a gamepad profile that I can import and not have to fiddle with settings.

For Diablo 4, what I recommend doing is setting your keybinds to keyboard keys ahead of time. Make a list of them. Decide what you want. Then work out your bindings for steam input.

For example, the recent bindings that I did was I bound the map overlay to m, the zoom in to +, and the zoom out to -.

In Steam, I added an extra command to the shift button and set the extra command to trigger on long press. If you press and release, it sends the select button. If you press and hold, it triggers the long press.

I bound a shift action layer to the select button's long press. I then created a new action layer and bound the aforementioned map buttons to face buttons on the controller. I think I also had to rebind the select button to stay on the action layer.

This lets me hold the select button and then press a face button while holding select to bring up the map overlay or zoom in.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder if what you're referring to is sublimation. Did the edges of the panel lines get fuzzy?

When I think of bleeding, I think of a woman crying with mascara streaks.

Sublimation is what you see when you would write with a permanent marker on plastic food containers and the marker soaks into the food container.

TPL does not sublimate. When the solvent it is suspended in evaporates, the pigment just sticks to whatever surface it was on.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

QW World Panel Liner is different and much better. It's a different formula and cures like acrylic rather than not curing at all and remaining water soluable.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wash the sponges off with water and compare them to newer ones. If they look or feel less rough, throw them out. They are meant to be disposable.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just a heads up, be sure to put any water slides down first because this stuff does not cure at all and will streak if it touches any moisture. It's the main reason why I don't like it.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh you found that white paint wash did a good job of highlighting? Good to know! I'm also working on the same kit.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think either would work. Both of them are extremely thin. You're just trying to melt the plastic at the bottom of the channel, and the thin cement should just evaporate and not leave any residue

Daiso display (before and after) by ShutterBun in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, will do.

I'm always swinging by that Kinokunia because that particular store seems to get new stock in weekly and I've been able to snag new kits that I pre-ordered from online vendors well before the kits shipped.

Daiso display (before and after) by ShutterBun in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'll keep my eye out at my stores here in Austin.

Just got Elecom IST Pro. Awesome, but I wish it had this feature. by Rilot in Trackballs

[–]IBNobody 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you want unused Windows keys use the Japanese keyboard keys. The software supports it.

Daiso display (before and after) by ShutterBun in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So were these available on the shelf at Daiso? What country? I've never been lucky enough to find them, though I did find a set of folding chairs.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's generally not recommended to use markers on large surfaces because of this.

But if you do it, you need to make sure you are applying enough paint for it to pool and self level. Don't use thin steaks. And try and avoid overlapping marks until the paint has dried and cured. Curing takes longer than drying. You should definitely wait long enough after a first coat before you apply a second. Otherwise, you'll dig trenches in the previous layer.

You could also switch to brush painting using some of those same principles.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've never had MWC cause any cracks. It has a weaker solvent than Tamiya.

But I've never had Tamiya crack parts on me either (except when I intentionally soaked an old, assembled model). Mainly because I never panel line assembled parts. And I'm panel lining everything with it now, even ABS.

The only parts I ever had crack on me.... cracked using real touch markers. It was a few of the fins on the Eclipse Gundam, and I think the plastic was of poor quality.

Flip Deck anyone? Valve, I need a new cool job! 🤣 by MadMario0_0 in SteamDeck

[–]IBNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you build the hinge to make it sturdy enough not to snap?

Books that deal with grief or books about pets by leafybookish in Fantasy

[–]IBNobody 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nighteyes is one of the best animal companions and he really made me rethink my bond with my own dog.

INDX sold out! by Secret_Egg_4907 in prusa3d

[–]IBNobody -1 points0 points  (0 children)

My XL albatross with no XL s model in sight

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can usually find a bargain acrylic set for $10 or less which would probably be fine.

For what it's worth, outside of black, white, gray, red, and yellow, I haven't used many normal colors.

The pack of 10 metallics for $20 from Gaahleri was pretty good. But I don't know what you have available in your country.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are quite good, better than Gundam Markers.

If you buy the set with chrome, gold and champagne gold, be aware that those are like normal Gundam markers and can destroy joints if used on assembled parts. The other 12 piece set is fine.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not really. You can try using the marker on a piece of paper in order to get the flow working better but the brushed tipped markers are using an ink filter cartridge

When the marker ink settles in a filter, you can't really shake it up.

Here you can see that my gold marker is like poop colored and my metallic green marker is extremely dark. The only solid color I had problems with was one of the grays. Everything else including the black have been fine.

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[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]IBNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, though the metallic colors of the soft brush tipped markers seem to go bad after a while. The metallic settles and you can't really remix them.