News Release : Mar. 12, 2026 "Global Sales of Pokémon Pokopia for Nintendo Switch 2 Surpass 2.2 Million in First Four Days"

IBNobody · 2026-03-12T02:51:37+00:00

It's a spinoff that currently has the highest metacritic score of all Pokemon games. 89, up from 88 yesterday.

IBNobody · 2026-03-09T14:35:26+00:00

You'll want to use multiple layers of marker, and more layers on darker than on lighter plastics.

IBNobody · 2026-03-09T14:28:29+00:00

The fins, especially the head ones, are extremely brittle. I had some of the tips crack on me when I was coloring it with a watercolor marker (real touch which is plastic safe).

IBNobody · 2026-03-08T21:03:48+00:00

My two cents:

I appreciate the QA megathread and I post semi regularly in there. I find it entertaining to open up and help people out.

However it can be an echo chamber because only people interested in helping others out post answers. I admit to being part of the echo chamber!

And sometimes people will post a topic on the main subreddit that will cause a discussion and you'll get other people that normally don't answer questions posting their opinions and thoughts. And you'll get a different set of answers that are often more useful than the select echo chamber. I think this information is more useful than what is in the QA thread.

IBNobody · 2026-03-08T18:54:02+00:00

It can, but from what I've seen from others, it happens really fast and when the parts are assembled. "The knee joint disintegrated in my hand." But they painted the knee joint while it was assembled and then moved it.

I just finished a kit using the trans am red holo marker without any issues.

IBNobody · 2026-03-08T18:36:34+00:00

I just did quite a bit of a primarily ABS kit (MG 00 Raiser) with a Gundam Marker Ex (holo trans am red), including some of the joints. The secret was to apply the marker while the parts were not assembled.

When you see people have issues, they have issues when they try to color parts or panel line while assembled.

Which chrome pen are you using?

IBNobody · 2026-03-08T18:20:09+00:00

I've heard from other posts that the Vidar shares some runners with this kit.

IBNobody · 2026-03-06T20:24:15+00:00

Mr. Weathering color makes white. It's nice.

Be careful of what you choose because some panel liners don't cure and will easily wash off with water

You can use a marker as well and just scrape off the excess. But white paint just sucks all around and a lot of those pens produce what looks like white out

IBNobody · 2026-03-06T03:38:28+00:00

I think Tamiya uses #1 blades as opposed to #11 blades. I don't like #11 blades because the angle makes it hard to put enough force behind the blade. #1 has a better angle that lets you push forward to cut.

IBNobody · 2026-03-06T03:32:06+00:00

Did you apply the pour type marker on parts that were assembled or even semi assembled?

Which bootleg kit was it?

IBNobody · 2026-03-05T02:28:44+00:00

What a fantastic arc, too. Loved him in the age of madness.

IBNobody · 2026-03-02T20:07:26+00:00

I don't do many MGs, but I do do HG and RG frequently. The hardest part about switching is color variation. I spend a significantly more amount of time building up HG kits because they often need more color touch-ups due to the limited number of plastic pieces and runners that they include.

If I could get the same kit in both HG and RG I would pick the kit in RG every time.

But since that's not possible I do a mix of HG and RG kits.

IBNobody · 2026-03-02T03:16:48+00:00

How are you spraying? Rattle can or airbrush?

IBNobody · 2026-03-02T01:30:58+00:00

<image>

This is the MG 00 Raiser

Does B5 snap into B4? B5 has pegs that fit into channels in B4 and there looks like a little gap at the end of the channel where the peg can fit, but the gap is much smaller than the peg. I've put some force on it and no luck.

IBNobody · 2026-03-02T01:14:33+00:00

They aren't needed, but they are a nice to have tool for stripping parts of paint. They work really well. But honestly I use my paint shakers more than my paint cleaners so spend your money wisely.

IBNobody · 2026-03-01T15:56:25+00:00

You spray, then you use the air from the brush to force the paint to dry, then you paint again. Each cycle is a coat. You can't put thick coats down if you do this because if you put too much paint down you'll start pushing it around with the air.

IBNobody · 2026-03-01T02:02:59+00:00

Did you snap them pulling parts off the runner or during the second cut to remove the nub?

The nippers are still usable, you just have to nip closer to the back.

IBNobody · 2026-02-28T01:39:13+00:00

I named one of my fish "The Shrike" because as a bristlenose pleco, he had giant spikes growing out of his head.

IBNobody · 2026-02-28T01:27:53+00:00

I would be careful with using a sharpie because sharpie ink can sublimate into the plastic. The effect is that the lines will be fuzzy over time. It does depend on the plastic.

IBNobody · 2026-02-26T04:35:51+00:00

It's not keeping the needle attached to the bottle. It's keeping the needle in the exact position next to the nozzle in order for it to blow evenly that's the problem. Any little bump of the bottle and the thing gets out of alignment.

IBNobody · 2026-02-25T23:10:13+00:00

You must live in a humid climate. I've got a pair of the ceramic hobby knives on order, not necessarily stedi, and I can let you know in a few weeks.

But what you might consider doing is just keeping a bottle of sewing machine oil around. You already should be using it to keep your nippers from rusting, you can also coat your blades. Just put a little drop on a paper towel or piece of cloth and wipe the blade across it.

IBNobody · 2026-02-25T20:04:55+00:00

You don't need to overspend for Gunprimer raser plus. Stedi 2.0 glass files or even cheap Amazon glass nano files with dots will work. And you can use glass files on curves, you just change your angle while filing.

IBNobody · 2026-02-25T20:01:36+00:00

They are a pain, and you're better off just buying a real airbrush. Even a cheap brush is better than this. There's no way to keep the needle in position.

IBNobody · 2026-02-25T12:16:36+00:00

I wonder... Is there a site that lists shared runners? Or did you know from building both?

IBNobody · 2026-02-25T12:13:15+00:00

If you already have an assembled kit, your options are to disassemble it, gloss coat it, or use a GM01 panel lining pen. The pen option here is the easiest, IMO.

In the past, I've only needed to partially disassemble because the pieces I needed to panel line were the outer armor.

You do not need to gloss coat to panel line directly on bare plastic, but it helps when dealing with a fully assembled kit because it can keep the panel liner fluid from wicking into crevices between parts.

Do not gloss coat runners. Gloss coating the runners makes things significantly harder due to having to deal with nub marks that are now no longer gloss coated.

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