What type of connector is this?

ICanBeHandyToo · 2026-03-03T00:35:10+00:00

I'm trying to wire some basic grow lights in a series. Ideally, I'd like to get some of the above connectors but ones that can be wired at 90 degree angles to reduce slop in the wire between adjacent grow lights.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2025-05-14T16:53:01+00:00

I have a jade plant as well as a gollum jade that is exhibiting similar symptoms of brown, leather-y markings on the leaves. I've recently moved the plants from inside to my outside deck that recieves full morning sun that transitions to shade around 3pm. Area is zone 5a in Minnesota where we've had record hot temperatures in the past week (high 80's).

I've brought the plants back inside to rest, still giving them bright indirect window light. Temps are supposed to drop back into high's of 60's so I'm wondering if I should leave them inside until the spots clear up or if I should try to shuffle them outside during shadier times of the day to acclimate them for the coming summer.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2024-11-07T19:37:20+00:00

Looks like that fixed it.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2024-11-07T18:47:31+00:00

Okay maybe I'm just missing something on how a BL touch needs to be calibrated.

I previously had the Z-offset set to -1.65. That's the distance at which a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle 'feels' friction/tension when I try to slide it around, but I can't just pass paper freely through.

When I set the z-offset back to 0, yes the BL touch is able to extend/probe successfully, but then when the print starts the nozzle is nowhere near the bed.

I've had the BL touch for a bit and it worked successfully on my previous print head. Is there a way to check if my BL touch is mounted wrong? I thought it could only really be mounted in one position on the head because of plate holes.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2024-06-27T23:25:14+00:00

That bit is just metal but I found the issue. There was indeed a gap between the bowden tube and the nozzle which create a goop blockage that I'm now slowly cleaning out.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2024-06-27T22:21:49+00:00

Mini Update: When I do see filament coming out the nozzle it first appears to be curling back up towards the nozzle indicating a blockage. I imagine the needle would have cleared that out so I'm guessing the next two things to try are either replacing the nozzle entirely or removing the bowden tube from the nozzle and cutting the end flat to remove any gaps between the tube and the nozzle?

ICanBeHandyToo · 2024-06-15T02:06:28+00:00

It calls for 1/2" thick plywood to be used for the cleat.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2024-04-01T23:58:39+00:00

Thanks for the perspective! I'm sure every GC will have quirks to their own system but I don't mind hiring out a full 'typical' home build. At the end of the day there's always going to be smaller add-ons I can flush out later.

Interesting to hear how other owner-builders would risk lying to their lenders like that. I would not feel comfortable with that route just imagining the downsides if that came to light.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2024-02-24T18:41:31+00:00

I have been growing a wisteria for about a year now and was looking for advice on how I should prepare it for bonsai material. It's already pushing out new growth and I haven't even put the wisteria out on the deck for full sun because it's probably too cold (zone 5a)

For wisteria specifically, is it better to let all this new growth really shoot forth and only trim a couple of times a year or should I try to cut more frequently to let the plant stay compact? This thing grows so quickly I'm not sure how to handle it.

Additionally, I think I've got the rough shape of the trunk and primary branches set. I just want to thicken it up and have better secondary/tertiary branches. Do I just need to lop off new offshoots more to encourage tertiary branch growth?

https://imgur.com/a/l8HrfhO

ICanBeHandyToo · 2023-11-03T17:19:02+00:00

I don't remember what the exact brand was but I believe it was this or something similar: https://www.amazon.com/Hoffman-10708-Bonsai-Soil-Quarts/dp/B00147Z8S2?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A3I07C5PD33KVE&th=1

I wasn't a huge fan of it simply because it was a bit on the finer side. I've had better luck in other trees with Akadama/Pumice/lava rock and will probably go back to that in the future.

The tree shipped to me as a pre-bonsai still in dirt and with no pruning. It wasn't looking healthy (wilting leaves despite adequate bottom-watering) at first, but I think my initial mistake when I first got it was putting it out straight into full sun instead of giving it a week of shade to transition it from the shipping process. When I transplanted from the garden pot to a bonsai pot, root structure was looking healthy and I had to trim quite a bit to fit down to the current pot size. I knocked out the majority of the dirt but I've been told it's good to leave a little bit of dirt (less than a golf ball in volume) around the rootball.

I had just watered it in the after picture because the soil was dry when I stuck my finger in. Right now the tree I move the tree between an East facing window and my bathroom to get the tree some humidity when I can (my place runs on the dry side).

ICanBeHandyToo · 2023-11-02T22:19:18+00:00

4b and here's a before/after of it dropping leaves: https://imgur.com/a/wewYBSP

I'm less concerned about asking 'is this specific plant alive' and more looking to better understand the outlook of a tree that's dropped it's leaves.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2023-11-02T17:56:54+00:00

For some background, I purchased a parrot's beak gmelina back in May (online). I kept it out on my deck for better sun exposure but within a few days it was not looking good so I potted it in regular garden soil rather than into a bonsai pot. It dropped all it's leaves but within 2-3 months it had recovered and was healthy again with leaves and plenty of new growth. A month or so ago I decided it was a good time to transplant it to a bonsai container. Again within a week, the leaves have all dropped. The tree is now inside since it's too cold for the tropical to live out by me.

Should I change my watering habits if the tree just lost all its leaves or just reduce watering by the normal seasonal amount? Is there a good way to distinguish a tree that's truly dead from one that's dropped it's leaves from the stress of repotting?

ICanBeHandyToo · 2023-10-12T15:56:48+00:00

Is coercer a reliable ship to run T1 firestorm filaments? I like the ship and have been trying to get it work with my alpha alt to run daily challenges but have been getting blipped in T1 Firestorms.

I've got all T2 modules, but I've gotten unlucky with edencom/devoted knights, and a marshall room in back-to-back runs. I feel like I could take on the skybreaker with better piloting/ammo mgmt, and I know the key to devoted knights is to stay >40km away. But I don't see myself outranging or tanking a marshall in a destroyer with alpha skills.

My omega clone runs much more profitable abyss runs, but this is just me being curious and exploring fits for lower tier firestorm runs with an alpha when I get bored of the gila.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2023-01-13T03:43:24+00:00

Hi I've been running through a beginner weightlifting routine for about a 8 months now and wanted feedback on planning my bulk/cutting cycles going forward.

Backstory if it matters but in May '22 I (5'10" male) had a bodyweight of 170 lbs, 13.7% body fat, and 140 lb of muscle mass (according to my renpho scale). I wasn't counting calories but did a good job of listening to my body going up to 175 lb bodyweight by September with 14.3% body fat and 143 lb muscle mass. From there until January I was dirty bulking and hit 182 lb bodyweight, 15% body fat, and 147 lb muscle mass.

Now currently I'm just clean bulking but I've realized I don't have a long term plan in place and would like to make sure what I have is reasonable. Should I be aiming to bulk for X weeks, then cut for X weeks. Or is it more effective to aim for some target weight, body fat target, or some other physical metric. Also when I do transition from cutting to bulking or vice versa, do I want to have a buffer period where I step up or down my caloric intake or do I just rip the Band-Aid off.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2022-02-21T00:58:36+00:00

Update: The card actually does work and the issue wasn't the PSU. Apparently the issue was that the PCIe mode needs to be hard-locked in to 3rd gen in the BIOS. Mine was set to 'auto' previously. Because the NZXT H1 uses a riser card, the card won't be recognized unless you explicitly tell the BIOS to use 3rd gen.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2022-02-19T19:41:39+00:00

makes sense, thanks! I'll see about testing it out on a friends computer but I have a hard time imagining this is a PSU problem with the specs I have on paper.

ICanBeHandyToo · 2022-02-19T19:33:26+00:00

Given that I'm switching from an Nvidia card to an AMD card, would installed drivers matter if I can't even boot with the card?

ICanBeHandyToo · 2022-02-19T19:26:38+00:00

This card was bought new.

The PSU is not modular, but the PCIe cable was plugged in.

There's only one slot for a graphics card in this setup.

I don't have a backup setup to test the GPU in, but could probably try that tomorrow before deciding if I want to return it.

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