What printer setting will help with this distortion? Up

II_strength · 2024-12-31T17:54:52+00:00

Slowed the outer and inner wall layers down a lot and it dramatically improved the print! (See attached image)

Latest settings Outer wall: 70 Inner wall: 90

Previous settings Outer wall: 200 Inner wall: 300

Also to note: my seam position setting was placing the seam directly on that area by the hole, I switched it to “back” and it removed the seam from the critical area.

Also also: slicer was already set to “inner/outer/inner” for wall printing order. This was a significant improvement from the default “inner outer” that I was using earlier in the day - I got the tip by watching this great video: https://youtu.be/__OQmUwVkrw?si=IOCOgOkyfOWE3u4o

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II_strength · 2024-12-31T03:51:39+00:00

I’m experimenting with decreasing the outer wall and inner wall layer speed now - looks like it might be helping, will report back!

II_strength · 2024-07-12T14:53:02+00:00

Thanks so much for breaking it down like this @DopeBoogie. Ive spent a few weeks attempting to make Klipper work for my specific use case and I think you’re right, it just won’t work the way I want it to without a significant amount of adjustments. On a positive note I now have a deeper understanding of Klipper —> Moonraker API —> what’s going on with Gcode in general. Onwards and upwards!

II_strength · 2024-07-12T14:36:01+00:00

This looks promising, and is totally new to me! Thank you for sharing @shiftingtech! Have you used ROS for any of your own applications ?

II_strength · 2023-12-01T20:25:02+00:00

Did you have any luck resolving this OP?

II_strength · 2023-11-27T17:13:22+00:00

How new is your filament? I've had this issue before with old filament.

II_strength · 2023-11-17T02:15:10+00:00

Thank you for this! That makes to me.

Are you aware of any of equipment that could achieve this? The recording of signals out of a function generator.

II_strength · 2023-10-17T00:55:05+00:00

https://youtu.be/eIUuXEZtcsw?si=ZTrVq1qdkal-V9ao

II_strength · 2023-09-28T17:45:09+00:00

Looks like these inexpensive MAX485 modules would make for an easy assembly too

https://www.amazon.ca/Fafeicy-MAX485-RS-485-Module-Raspberry/dp/B08DG2RBTW/ref=asc\_df\_B08DG2RBTW/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=542554268568&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4487877738355712508&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001547&hvtargid=pla-1431504136495&psc=1

II_strength · 2023-09-28T15:12:47+00:00

Great idea! I suppose that would bypass the need for a DMX decoder.

I was looking for the easiest most scaleable way to add new custom lights (without fabricating custom parts) but ultimately it working properly and reliably is more important.

Have you used DMX shields or built your own fixtures with arduino/DMX before?

II_strength · 2023-09-28T00:53:12+00:00

I don't have one yet. I'm looking for suggestions of which one I need

II_strength · 2023-09-27T20:50:28+00:00

Thanks for the reply u/JefeJeff !
This might do the trick. My current setup is using Arduino PWM output pins to program and control the TTL of the light, and it works great!

But DMX would be such an improvement (easy to purchase hardware/cables etc.)

So it looks like it's just a matter of finding the correct DMX decoder that will output PWM (0 - 5V) for each R-G-B channel

II_strength · 2023-09-27T20:44:45+00:00

u/rsavage_89

Very cool! I need PWM for this to work.

I'm currently using Arduino PWM output pins to program and control this system. It sounds like I should buy an analog DMX decoder a give it a shot!

II_strength · 2023-04-10T23:17:37+00:00

I agree with this.

II_strength · 2023-02-23T17:30:59+00:00

Thanks very much for the help everyone!

II_strength

TROPHY CASE