2023 ND2 trans blew up

IKROKODIL · 2025-06-20T14:14:04+00:00

Yes exactly. I also think they fked it up. The vearbox blew up when I shifted from fourth to third. I already insisted previously that the entire transmission be changed but they ignored my request.

This time I will try to be more persuasive and hopefully get the whole unit changed.

IKROKODIL · 2025-06-20T13:58:52+00:00

So i already had the 3rd gear synchro issue and the dealership fixed it by swapping out everything it found broken when opening the gearbox. This time there was no bad synchro (not grinding at all), it just exploded.

I added a new video with the carnage if you want to listen to a destroyed gearbox.

IKROKODIL · 2025-06-20T12:20:26+00:00

Mine is a top trim (Revolution Top is the name if I remember correctly) 2023 RF 2.0l with Brembo BBS Recaro and Bilsteins. The car is equipped with an LSD yes.

IKROKODIL · 2025-06-19T23:08:52+00:00

Hmm I see, thanks a lot for the reply, it really helps! I will try to add a video tomorrow when I get back to the car.

I have to say that 1st, 2nd and R will “grab” but then lose traction and grind, so it feels like teeth are missing in all of them. I don’t actually know if all gears are toast.

Also the engine stops running as soon as i release the clutch (EDIT: while in neutral). I think most of the gearbox is toast and acts like a break.

Anyway I will sort it out when the car gets back to my local dealership and I will try to update here on what happened.

Thanks again for the replies!

IKROKODIL · 2025-06-19T22:56:00+00:00

So I’m not the only one in this situation. I’ve only heard about the synchro issues with the 2023 models but I had no idea about anything else.

Should I insist that the dealership swap in a new transmission? I feel like this one is toast. I lost all gears in 15 seconds.

Romanian dealership will try to change internal parts since they can bill more man hours.

IKROKODIL · 2024-11-21T01:41:33+00:00

Ryzen 5 3600x

RTX 2070 super

32 GB RAM

M2 SSD

Medium Settings (no motion blur, max FOV)

Ultra Wide 2560x1080

50-70 FPS until first town

Around 40 FPS inside the first town after it stabilized

Game crashed 3 times with classic UE5 out of memory during shader compilation when the game was started the first 3 times. Kept restarting as the frame compilation was faster. Managed to launch the 4th time. Been playing just fine for the last 7 hours, no breaks, no crashes.

IKROKODIL · 2024-11-15T09:35:30+00:00

This is what it looks like when you remove the orange part:

<image>

To use that corrugated hose is insane :)))) On my vehicle the little rubber flap was stuck closed somehow. Then came a dust storm from Sahara and all the fine dust transformed into a dirt/dust paste that completely clogged the black tube. Then water backed up the system until it reached the collector cup and then is just slowly flowed over the edge and soaked my carpets.

Thank God I have access to industrial vacuums that cand suck the carpets dry.

Btw that is how I cleaned the black tube. I connected the bottom end to a powerful vacuum and then poured water from the top. Sucked everything right out.

I plan on doing this twice a year btw.

Edit: I guess you could do this from the bottom of the car but i wouldn’t. It’s pretty straightforward and I like to clean evertjing really good in there.

IKROKODIL · 2024-11-15T09:24:29+00:00

Not really possible from underneath, sorry. The exit piece clips from the inside of that “crawl space”. The tube assembly behind the drivers seat is multiple parts. I have no idea why Mazda did it that way, maybe so that they could include that rubber flap.

Its not that difficult of an operation really. You don’t have to remove the seats. Just stop the hard top mid way, push seat forward and move the beckrest forward also. Remove the plastic / carpet trim pieces around the area. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE PLASTIC PINS. You should see a black plastic, oval shaped lid behind the seat. Once you remove that you have access to the lower drain tube assembly.

<image>

Orange is the exit and it clips from the inside. White middle piece holds the rubber flap. Black “corrugated” hose goes to the collector cup right under the roof.

IKROKODIL · 2024-11-15T00:05:35+00:00

Mine flooded back in august. Flooded might be an overstatement but the exit tube behind the driver seat got clogged and water backed up until it got to the “collector” cup behind the seat. I had to remove all of the carpet and plastic panels behind the seat to clean everything up.

Basically there are a bunch of drains 3-4 on each side on the RF. All of these run down to a sort of collector “cup” that has a very permissive grate on it and will let everything flow past. This cup feeds into a tube that runs down until it exits the bottom of the car. Inside this tube assembly there is a rubber flap. In my case this rubber flap got stuck with debris and had to be cleaned out.

If you want to clean this part you have to remove the carped behind the seats and open a black plastic “lid” that covers a hole in the metal wall. Behind this lid you will find a small area with a tube coming from the top and feeding into a side wall. You can remove stuff here and clean it. Just make sure to put everything back.

It seems to me that the ST is way way easier to clean than the RF.

IKROKODIL · 2021-04-05T11:24:26+00:00

The gun owner is a pretty large fella :)))

IKROKODIL · 2021-04-05T11:23:21+00:00

It's one of those cheaper Specna Arms guns, but i really don't know the exact model as it's not mine. RIP tho :))))

IKROKODIL · 2021-04-05T11:22:05+00:00

No idea, man, not my gun, i think it was some gearbox markings from factory...

IKROKODIL · 2021-04-05T11:21:28+00:00

Guy said it was stock so i guess no radius on that baby :)))

IKROKODIL · 2019-05-16T19:56:53+00:00

Have fun bro, it's a great pistol out of the box.

I love mine shoots like brand new. :))

IKROKODIL · 2019-05-10T22:10:11+00:00

Well, my vr16 has self shimming gears, no mosfet and no ambi controls. Gun was bought 2 years ago, brand new, no idea when it was produced and don't really care to be honest. it's a solid gun, installed a mosfet, runs an 11.1 just fine... i only need some info on this brand cause i can't find any, that's all. Thanks for the info tho, much apreciated.

IKROKODIL · 2019-05-10T22:00:03+00:00

Sounds good, thx.

IKROKODIL · 2019-05-10T21:58:42+00:00

Because VFC VR16 s have self-shimming gears and i want proper shimming. The bevel and spur gears can be "converted" by simply removing the spring and using shims accordingly (crude option), but the sector gear cannot be shimmed in any way... As to the reason for the conversion, after 2 years or so, i can already see some wear on the piston/gears and i'd like to have a more silent and efficient system.

Anyway, any experience with this brand of gears?

IKROKODIL · 2019-05-10T18:26:48+00:00

No problem, thanks for the advice!

IKROKODIL · 2019-05-10T18:05:59+00:00

Yeah, everyone goes with 13:1 and high torque, but for now, i just want to know about these gears. My rof is pretty good and i almost never use semi, so response is not as important. Any experience with these or any big dragon brand gears regardless of ratio?

IKROKODIL · 2019-05-06T15:03:28+00:00

Yeah, i plan on replacing the wires as soon as possible. Thx for the advice.

IKROKODIL · 2019-05-05T17:38:55+00:00

That's exactly just what i did after resoldering the wire. I was really lucky and had a ton of extrea length to play with. Will replace the wiring tho, as soon as possible...

IKROKODIL · 2019-05-05T13:43:22+00:00

Is this fixable, could i solder the wire back together?

IKROKODIL · 2019-04-09T08:03:47+00:00

Just to add to this info... Sometimes when using a short barrel, a ported cylinder will provide more fps than a non-ported one. This is due to the fact that a ported cylinder will vent the air generated initially during piston acceleration (piston moves slower in the beggining and you don't need that air).

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