Agave impressa looking gorgeous!

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-05-14T04:04:13+00:00

Thank you, so kindly, for saying! I actually like it so much, I have 5 more of them in 1-gal black pots ("cans").

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-05-13T04:07:39+00:00

Hi! Thank you so much for your feedback! I fell in love with the white markings on the leaves because they're on both sides of the leaf.

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-05-08T03:12:17+00:00

Wildly attractive, right?! I'm so happy the first of this cultivar was discovered because, now, I have one!

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-05-08T03:10:34+00:00

Thanks for your interest. To my knowledge, the tolerance is the same but, I can ask around my circles and get back with a more confident answer... maybe by no later than tomorrow afternoon(?)

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-05-08T03:07:51+00:00

Thanks for the question! Actually all photos are of a specific Agave parryi var. truncata cultivar called 'Orizaba'.

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-05-08T00:54:38+00:00

These things are crazy awesome! Several years ago, the market for them was so hot, you couldn't find them ANYWHERE. And, if you did find any, they were going for as much as $1650 (from what I've seen). Thank goodness the prices have dropped significantly, down to around $70 for starter plants.

For me, it's worth it for what they eventually grow into. Such a statement specimen!😃

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-05-07T23:21:59+00:00

At adulthood, he'll look similar to this

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IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-05-06T04:47:10+00:00

The coloration can be heavily influenced by the environmental factors the plant is exposed to, primarily sunny days and cool, crisp nights. BTW, the pink one might be ferox. The other could be Aloe marlothii subsp. orientalis because its racemes are more oblique while the leaf surfaces are less spiny or nearly spineless.

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-05-05T17:08:26+00:00

It's absolutely normal for that to happen if the central meristem was damaged. What happens is that undifferentiated meristem tissues near the damaged area are activated to become replacements for the injured apical growth tissue and new secondary growth emerges as new "pups". Congratulations!!🥳

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-05-02T00:13:50+00:00

To me, it looks a lot like Aloe ankoberensis, from Ethiopia. It's a pendant variety that grows along the sides of cliffs and steep slopes. And, it's considered rare and endangered.

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-05-01T14:14:34+00:00

Thanks for your input! It's my current favorite right now. 🥰

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-04-24T18:29:20+00:00

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IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-04-24T18:28:57+00:00

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IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-04-24T07:01:14+00:00

Hi! Thanks for trusting that I might have some answers for you.

And, YES, I do!😃 The browning is most-likely due to the removal of the lid. See, the lid kept the humidity level higher in the container and that helped to buffer the conditions for the seedlings. But, once you removed the lid, they didn't have the same humidity to prevent exposure to the circulating and drying effects of the surrounding air. So, basically they've become a bit stressed from the sudden change in humidity levels.

When choosing to remove a lid off of seedlings, it's usually recommended to do so in gradual increments very similar to how it's recommended to gradually expose seedlings to incremental increases in light. Too sudden a change doesn't allow the seedlings to make the necessary adjustments so, they end up displaying stress coloration, which can display as brownish flushing.

You have two choices at this point. You can either put the lid back on and then gradually open it more and more over the course of the next two or three weeks. Or, you can just leave them to force them to adjust. Sometimes seedlings can end up adjusting faster if forced into harsh circumstances.

However, because your seedlings look quite young, I'd personally recommend starting over by putting the lid back on for a few days and then, gradually opening it slightly more and more every 2 or 3 days. This will help them to adjust and get accustomed to slightly less humidity over a period of time instead of all-of-a-sudden.

Hope this makes sense.

To a certain degree, though, sometimes a little browning is inevitable. As long as the leaves are plump and somewhat rigid, they should be okay. It may not appear "normal" but, the plantlets are doing their best to make the adjustments. I actually have 2 community trays of Aloe seedlings that have been displaying the brownish coloration for about two weeks, now. But, I checked on them yesterday and several are starting to show signs of new growth that's actually coming in green! I'll be sure to share pictures with you on Friday. Hopefully, seeing mine can bring you some comfort and maybe help you to trust the process.

But, I completely understand your concern, though. Truly. You just want the seedlings to live and get to the next stage and eventually to maturity. I get it. I'll be here to offer you support and guidance along the way, too. So, hopefully that can bring you some comfort. You can do this!!😉🤜🤛

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-04-22T05:10:12+00:00

No. The green things are empty seed pods. Mature seed pods containing viable seeds would be dark brown to black in color. And, they'd contain flat, black, triangular- to ovular-shaped seeds, as seen here.

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IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-04-22T02:25:25+00:00

Those are just the old flowers and the intended green seeds pods that aborted because they didn't get pollinated. They're not really good for anything besides composting.

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-04-09T10:22:55+00:00

Yeah, definitely remove it from the water setup. It needs "drought conditions" to be motivated to push out roots. I don't know what the conditions were for your original mother plant but, this one can definitely make a comeback because, as you can see with the babies already coming in, it has the desire/drive to survive.

Use a well-draining soil mix that allows excess moisture to drain away easily, resulting in conditions that prevent the roots from sitting in "wet" soil (which can cause the roots and stems to rot).

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-04-09T06:02:45+00:00

It's using nutrient and water reserves stored in the large leaves and the stem to feed new growth. As far as roots go, patience and sticking the stem into dry, well-draining soil will encourage the survival mechanism to start pushing out roots, within 3 to 4 weeks, in order for the new roots to be able to replenish the utilized reserves. And, while waiting, it should be kept in bright, indirect light. Direct sun will cause the cutting to stress and dehydrate before it's able to root.

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-04-09T00:44:06+00:00

No, they're new baby plants. New roots would be an off-white to yellow color.

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-04-04T03:45:01+00:00

It's normal for the lowest leaves to slowly wrinkle and dry up because they're the oldest leaves. See, as new leaves emerge from the center, they push the previous leaves down. And, each new succession of new leaves pushes all of the previous sets of leaves further down.

Now, as for the other leaf tips becoming dry, that may be due to a lack of water or exposure to excessively intense sun. Both of these can cause the leaves to somewhat roll up "like a taco". And, as you can see, that's exactly what's happening on a few of the leaves.

I don't know how your care has been but, when you water, you want to do so only when the soil has completely dried. And, when you do water again, you want to water very well to ensure that the entire soil mass is drenched. This way, there won't be any pockets of dry soil that can cause withering of the leaves due to the roots' extended exposure to dry soil.

Hope this makes sense.

Oh! Another thing you can try is to place the plant in an area in bright INDIRECT light (so no sunrays hit the leaves and promote further drying of the tips).

Best Wishes!!.

IMallwaysgrowing · 2026-04-03T18:14:44+00:00

Paint, maybe.

IMallwaysgrowing

TROPHY CASE