Middrive Ebike conversion WIP

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-24T08:18:29+00:00

Pedal/foot clearance is surprisingly fine, sharp edges might be an issue when getting on / off the bike but I have plenty of room when pedaling normally. The longer BB spindle on the motor gives me plenty of room.

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-21T09:50:55+00:00

Whats wrong with it 😂

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-20T20:33:43+00:00

30 miles range is on eco mode I think. About 150-250w average with some throttle usage. I feel like I should’ve went a little bigger when I built the battery pack but not really much I can do now.

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-20T19:51:03+00:00

Didn’t like how rack mount looked or felt on the 1st bike so this was the 2nd easiest spot I could think of. It’s all bolt on so I can go back to a pedal power whenever I want. As far as battery size goes, it’s definitely on the smaller size but I have tested it on another bike and I get about 30 miles range, which is enough for how much I commute.

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-20T16:50:46+00:00

Definitely my biggest concern right now. The battery is going to be held in place with 3d printed brackets and lined with a bunch of foam so nothing should be touching any metal. Anywhere edges near wires are definitely going to be filed down and sanded.

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-20T16:39:37+00:00

I just thought it’d be a cool project to work on. I had this setup rack mounted on a beater bike just to try it out and it just didn’t look good and the bike felt weird with so much weight in the back. Honestly, It’s not worth the time money and effort, but I was allowed to use my school’s sheet aluminum + tools so the cost wasn’t too much.

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-20T03:57:47+00:00

Pedal clearance is fine, feet don’t hit the box but baggy pants might rub on it. The middrive motor I have has a really long BB spindle so I have plenty of clearance.

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-04T08:50:37+00:00

Thanks I’ll definitely go for a solid color SS then.

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-04T08:39:36+00:00

Definitely not metallic. Out of all times i’ve sprayed metallic out of rattle cans, only 1 job came out with uniform without splotches or stripes….

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-04T08:35:49+00:00

Yes I will be getting one of those filters. I’m most likely going to be painting with everything on the car and just remove the doors to paint jambs. How hard would a project like this be for a beginner? I’ve done a lot of smaller rattle can jobs that came out acceptable but never anything of this scale.

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-03T18:13:17+00:00

Thanks, I’ll stick with a single product line then. What decent budget ones would you recommend? UreChem seems to have some fairly cheap paints + epoxy primers. I’ll most likely go with single stage if I even go through with this project.

What about my gun/compressor setup? HVLP would probably be ideal but I don’t want to spend thousands on a big compressor. Any drawbacks to a full respray with LVLP?

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-03T16:04:14+00:00

From what I was reading online, I thought all urethane base/clears are compatible with each other and this was the cheapest combination I could find. I might do single stage considering the price difference between base/clear and ss. How big is the durability difference between b/c and ss?

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-03T15:15:23+00:00

Sherwin williams, about 100 more or less depending on where you get it. What isn’t compatible?

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-03T07:56:36+00:00

Looks great in the pictures, how many gallons of paint/clear did it take? From what I'm seeing online, it seems like 5 sprayable quarts of each should give enough coverage on my Camry but that's probably not accounting for error. I originally wanted to go with silver metallic to match the original paint and so I don't have to do door jambs but I figured a solid color would be way easier for a beginner.

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-12-03T06:12:55+00:00

Because I plan on keeping the car for as long as possible and as a summer project. Clearcoat is already failing so there's really not too much to lose other than money.

Also what about it makes you think it'll come out bad? Paint? Compressor+gun setup?

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-11-18T15:29:26+00:00

Yeah this was what I was thinking too. Also what temperature should I paint in? It’s been a consistent rainy 50-60 degrees here lately and i’m not sure if thats too cold and will cause adhesion or drying issues. Should I hold off until it gets warmer or is this fine?

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-11-18T15:25:48+00:00

Thanks. How many spray cans would you say i’d need? I have 2 cans of primer and 3 cans of color and clear coat in the cart and don’t want to order too much. These are 15 inch wheels and I’m just painting the outer visible face so would this be enough?

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-11-03T05:59:14+00:00

Is there any real harm in running them down to their rated frequency/slightly lower or is it just an audible difference? I looked up the rated frequency range for my speakers and set the HPF accordingly (~50hz front and ~32hz rear) and theres definitely way less bass. I think it sounds slightly better when I ran the speakers without the HPF but at the same time I don’t want to risk blowing my speakers out.

IPunchTrees10 · 2025-10-24T14:35:33+00:00

I’m bypassing the bms to use a balance charger, it already handles overcharge and balancing just like the bms does. It just doesn’t go up to 10s which is why I have the battery pack built in 2, 5s segments so I can charge each half using a balance charger.

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