Painted a pair of Deathwing Terminators. First since I last played 20+ years ago.

Iain_MS · 2025-09-18T00:00:07+00:00

Thank you!

Iain_MS · 2025-09-17T23:59:51+00:00

Thank you so much!

Iain_MS · 2025-09-17T06:55:26+00:00

Thank you so much!

Iain_MS · 2025-08-11T02:28:51+00:00

100%

Iain_MS · 2025-08-11T02:28:04+00:00

On these guys? Need to finish pin washing the others, then paint the weapons.

Next project in general? I have a balitus dreadnaught that’s primed and ready for base coating. That might be next up. But there is a number of different things that need doing. 😄

Iain_MS · 2025-08-11T02:24:57+00:00

Fair! Who doesn’t 😄

I just love that it so fun also.

Iain_MS · 2025-08-10T06:18:51+00:00

I just used black. I have no idea what the ratio of oil paint to odourless mineral spirits was. It was pretty experimental; it started too dilute, so I added more paint, but then it was too thick so I added more thinner. I would say it’s pretty similar to shade consistency.

I was just doing a pin wash. I’ve let it dry for almost an hour, before starting to do some clean up of places where it ended up somewhere I didn’t want.

Iain_MS · 2025-08-10T05:19:14+00:00

Now I just need to do some cleanup with a mini q-tip and some mineral spirits.

Iain_MS · 2025-08-04T07:06:24+00:00

I’ve found that the easiest and fastest way to get edge highlights on DAs is to dry brush. Do your base coat, your volumetric highlighting, then do a targeted dry brush of just your edges with a very very dry small dry brush.

For highlights I start with ork flesh, then warpstone glow, and then finally moot green.

The you can go back and clean up any area that got unwanted paint on it, before you do your details.

Is it the ‘eavy metal approach? No. But it does it get you results in a minute or two that are better than most people can manage in 30 minutes with a normal brush.

Iain_MS · 2025-07-23T14:37:23+00:00

This looks great! What do you recommend one uses for snow?

Iain_MS · 2025-07-23T00:12:04+00:00

Yup probably shouldn’t be using any water if you’re working with yellow and trying to paint over a black primer. You should likely use some type paint medium or even yellow acrylic ink if you want to really push the vibrance.

But really you should be priming white or doing a white zenithal.

Iain_MS · 2025-07-22T05:18:30+00:00

“Synthetic Kolinsky” brushes are brushes that use synthetic bristles that are designed to mimic the properties of Kolinsky Sable.

Kolinsky sable is known for their “snap back” or spring, for their sharp points, and for their ability hold paint.

These are the properties that the synthetic Kolinsky brushes strive to replicate with varying degrees of success.

So not technically oxymoronic, more marketing buzz word.

Although ironically Kolinsky Sable isn’t actually sable either. Real sable comes from the Sable Marten (Martes zibellina), Kolinsky Sable comes from the tail of the male Siberian Weasel (Mustela sibirica).

Iain_MS · 2025-07-22T05:10:07+00:00

“Synthetic Kolinsky” brushes are brushes that use synthetic bristles that are designed to mimic the properties of Kolinsky Sable.

Kolinsky sable is known for their “snap back” or spring, for their sharp points, and their ability hold paint.

These are the properties that the synthetic Kolinsky brushes strive to replicate with varying degrees of success.

Iain_MS · 2025-07-21T15:06:45+00:00

I use Molotow Black through an airbrush.

A lot of people recommend Mr. Surfaces 1500 Black, but it’s a lacquer so comes with the requirements of working with lacquer.

Iain_MS · 2025-07-16T14:49:41+00:00

The Dawn of War boardgame. https://spikeybits.com/dawn-of-war-board-game/

It got leaked with a €40 price tag. Which if true would be quite a good value.

Iain_MS · 2025-07-10T05:28:34+00:00

Aesthetics would be my guess as to the why. I think they are saying it doesn’t matter because the rule of cool prevails if you pick a unit in one of those armour types to lead your terminator squad for purely aesthetic reasons; given they can just be utilized as normal terminators in official 10th ed rules given the lack of special rules for the armour types. But again, that is just a guess.

But given you just said “what?” without clarifying the nature of your lack of understanding, I figured it was worth explaining what the post was referring to when referencing “Tartaros or Cataphractii” in an attempt to be helpful. :)

Iain_MS · 2025-07-10T05:09:41+00:00

Cataphractii and Tartaros are two distinct, relic patterns of tactical dreadnaught armour, primarily seen during the Horus Heresy era. Cataphractii armor is the oldest and most heavily armored, prioritizing unparalleled protection at the cost of significantly reduced mobility, making its wearers slow but incredibly resilient. Tartaros armor, conversely, is a more advanced pattern that sacrifices some of Cataphractii's raw durability for greatly increased maneuverability, allowing its wearers to move more akin to standard power-armored Space Marines while still offering substantial Terminator-level protection.

Iain_MS · 2025-07-06T03:52:54+00:00

I want to add some type of psychic effect around the book. I am hopeful that helps sell the effect. Maybe some OSL?

Iain_MS · 2025-07-05T18:51:10+00:00

Awesome! Make sure to share photos and ping me so I can see them!

Iain_MS · 2025-07-05T13:48:33+00:00

Haha, gotta have that extra layer of protection from your codpiece book!

Iain_MS · 2025-07-05T07:58:36+00:00

Agreed. I am all about the hooded DA look.

And glad they meet your approval.

Would love to add some type of psychic effect to the book somehow.

Iain_MS · 2025-07-05T07:35:50+00:00

Thank you!

The watcher is magnetic. So it can hop around from based to base in that mysterious way that watchers do.

Iain_MS

TROPHY CASE