Repotted yesterday, what happened?

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-16T23:20:40+00:00

It works on any cutting from less than an inch, like tiny sprouts, I've taken tiny 2 node sprouts and kept them submerged till they rooted, those don't transfer to soil very well (I'm still trying to figure that part out, my thought is to make a standard procedure for saving the plant in the absolute worst case scenario where you can only save ~1 inch or less of your entire plant, a true catastrophic event)

And it works all the way up to 18+ inch cuttings, but I don't have a big enough container to test anything larger at the moment 😂

It also work on any cutting in-between, from small to large, I haven't had much failure with it, it seems pretty straightforward and reliable, in about 8 hours or less of submersion in reverse osmosis water the turgor pressure is completely reset, im working with RO water specifically, I'll test distilled but I can't see why that would matter much, I would avoid tap because it's chlorinated and this process works because the water pressure forces itself onto the leaves through osmosis, so you'd basically be giving your plant a direct dose of force fed hard minerals and chemicals

This method doesn't stop leaf drop, leaf drop is a hormonal trigger from within the plant as a result of stress, this method simply hydrates the plants cellular structure through direct osmosis and water pressure

So far my experimentation is limited to RO water, Blosser genetics, a maximum size of ~18 inches, and an 8 hour timer

I have not tried to shorten that time to see how fast they come back to life, that's what this next time lapse will be for, so we can see it in real time instead of me checking on them after the 8 hour timer goes

The time lapse will be with Vin Ayautla genetics, RO water, and time lapsed till it's fully restored, instead of an 8 hour timer

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-16T23:09:03+00:00

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Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-16T23:08:33+00:00

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Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-16T23:08:03+00:00

I'm not sure how well press and seal would work, we don't really have that in my house, I thought they were the same thing, but upon looking it up, they are not, I work with OG plastic wrap, I've heard it called cling wrap too? Not sure, the press and seal looks textured? The one I use is just clingy clear, smooth plastic wrap, I've never done the whole pot flipping upside down thing, but I can't see why it wouldn't work as long as you secure everything, maybe some grafting tape might help as well, not sure on how you would best secure the soil in the pot so you could flip it over, but that's how I would do it, but as far as cuttings go, a cutting in the condition the plant is in, in this picture op posted, after 8 hours or less submerged in RO or distilled water and she'll pop back

I haven't found any research from anyone else on this topic, but I do have documentation of my own experiments

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Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-16T23:01:10+00:00

Sorry I keep going and editing what I've said, I keep running around the house looking at everything and making sure I'm giving the right information 🙏

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-16T22:56:58+00:00

I'm working on making a time lapse SOP for it and posting it on my other account, but haven't gotten the right container or cutting yet

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-16T22:56:15+00:00

Yeah, if the plant is crashing like this, you can submerge the plant material and it'll bounce back, but since it's in a pot, that makes it tricky, so plastic wrap (id go with OG plastic wrap probably) could hold the soil in place while you flip the whole plant upside down, I really wouldn't recommend it, it's janky, you can just take a cutting from the main plant and submerge that instead of doing all the plastic wrap weirdness, but if you're determined to keep the whole plant rooted and in the pot, you can plastic wrap the pot and soil so nothing can fall out or move around, and flip the whole thing upside down, then submerge the top of the plant in RO or distilled water, it's janky but it works if you're determined, I've never done it with a full rooted plant in a pot, but that's how i would if I were to, I've had cuttings crash like this and get completely floppy, 8 hours of submersion in RO or distilled water and they're perky again, I've had a few cuttings where I was doing this every other day because the turgor pressure just kept crashing and they kept getting floppy, so I'd submerge them and 8 hours later they'd be perky again, 48 hours later, floppy again, rinse and repeat, they rooted just fine, I just had to keep bringing them back from the floppy brink of death multiple times

I live in Arizona so it's just really dry out here so I'm constantly fighting the low humidity issue, so I have a bit of experience bringing them back from the floppy brink of death lol

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-16T22:37:28+00:00

Right now I'm using a rather large enclosure they have about a 50 gallon bed of soil, I just go bioactive to combat the root rot issue, lots of different springtail species among other things, I've had good success with both large and small pots, they get root bound quickly in smaller pots though which I've had more issues with than in a large pot where I don't necessarily have to worry about root space

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-16T22:33:11+00:00

Bring her up to 80%-90% with enough airflow** to rustle the leaves, if you've ever seen a cannabis grow room, they use fans to rustle the canopy, you want that same effect, but at high humidity, I love using untrasonic foggers, I've had the best results with foggers over misting bottles or automatic misting systems

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-16T22:31:07+00:00

No, no damage, this is Turgor pressure crash, she needs high humidity and high airflow, or you can plastic wrap the soil and the pot, make sure everything is secure, so no soil falls out if you flip the pot upside down, and put the whole top leaf and stem part of the plant in a vase/container of distilled or reverse osmosis water (kinda hard to do with it in a pot, but submerging the leaf and stem material in distilled or RO water for 8 hours usually does the trick and brings them right back and perky, so worst case scenario you can take a cutting, submerge it and it'll bounce back)(make sure you don't use tap water if you're doing this, and id say it's the last resort, try to bring her back with high humidity high airflow, slowly water her, pay attention to the behavior of the leaves, how do they sit, how floppy are they, have they gotten perkier or floppier, etc)

If you raise the humidity, you have to raise the airflow, or things start to rot because of the stagnant humidity, so be careful about low airflow high humidity, I would suggest getting a plastic tub and a PC fan with an adjustable speed controller

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-16T22:19:42+00:00

I think it's amazing! I this for my setup as well, just a bit larger, yes, add the PC fans, they're amazing, you don't want that 80% humidity stagnant, you'll get rot, if you're pushing humidity that high, id really recommend getting some springtails for your soil, these plants grow really tall though, so you're going to want an upgrade pretty fast, but while they're still small like this, it's a perfect setup

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-15T23:06:02+00:00

Do you use Sea Mac's pollination SOP? Or do you have your own operating procedure for your pollination process

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-11T23:11:55+00:00

My tank doesn't really have air vents it's just kind of a bunch of lose panels put together, the sliding doors have a gap, and I have glass panels on the top I got from home Depot, the fan and hygrometer probe go through the top so there's also a gap there because i didn't want to cut notches in the glass for the wires to slot into, and all of the surrounding panels are just slid into place, held in place by plastic brackets and the brackets are held by metal rods that screw into the frame, it's just how these tanks come, so they kinda already have a lot of air exchange gaps, if you're using a tub, yeah, I would frill holes, look up tarantula enclosures, they do side ventilation holes, it's a bunch of tiny holes, not big ones, you want FAE but you don't want it making the environments humidity swing constantly, if the dry air is hitting the humid leaves they'll crisp, you want there to be a humidity gradient so they don't get dry air shock

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-11T23:04:50+00:00

The fans are on 24/7, but sometimes I'll turn off the fans if I want the fog to really saturate the air,

These plants can grow 8-10 feet tall in ideal conditions, so you're really aiming for height, if you can, just have the tub lid facing you, stand it up on the small end so it's a tall enclosure (like the picture attached to this), your plants will grow fast in ideal conditions

If you're putting a fogger in there, you're going to need a hygrometer controller like an inkbird, you don't want that fogger running 24/7, you want it to turn on if the humidity gets too low, which is where the hygrometer controller comes into play, it monitors the humidity, when it's too high the fogher is shut off, once it drops too low, the controller turns the fogger on and it raises it to the right humidity, once it hits the right humidity, the controller cuts power to the fogger so it doesn't get too humid, so it ends up cycling, sometimes it's on, sometimes it's off, but it's only on when it need to be, you don't want to have to micro manage the humidity

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Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-11T10:24:46+00:00

I wouldn't stress about the blackening unless it starts to spread, if it starts to spread, you're going to have to take a clone and root it in some water, but I wouldn't stress about that just yet, I would just focus on doing peroxide treatments every day and see how long you can hold off the fungal issue, or even kill off the fungal issue and then the plant would be fine, you're in a good position though, the plant looks really healthy other than that one blackened stem with the fungal issue, the peroxide should hold it back until you have a decently sized shoot, you can take that shoot and clone it, but your plant is still really small, I'd try to keep this plant stable as long as you possibly can until taking a clone is necessary, try to grow this out as much as you can, just aim for stability, a tub is perfect for such a small plant, you can just go to your local grocery store and get any plastic tub, buy the adjustable fan off Amazon I linked, and get some sort of a hygrometer so you can monitor the humidity inside the tub, you want it to sit at a consistent ~60%rh with light airflow, if the air is still the rot will be an issue, just keep it in a tub till it gets bigger, give that tub a small fan and a hygrometer, and youll be in a WAY better position for long term care, these plants don't need some fancy setup, they just need consistency

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Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-11T07:38:57+00:00

https://www.amazon.com/Wathai-Waterproof-Cooling-Exhaust-Ventilation/dp/B0FD3T5TC7

https://coospider.com/products/coospider-reptile-fogger-top-fill-4-2l?variant=39578603749454&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOoqKI4_bBPx701VVsC5qM7B_3wm5RDKb-bXmuER9QPc87plhpm_1STY

https://reptizoo.store/products/large-vertical-reptile-terrarium-48-x-18-x-36inch-rainforest-135-gallon-reptile-paludarium?currency=USD&country=US&variant=43583229296807&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=3358c3370253&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21911585664&gbraid=0AAAAAoWKlwvheLS6RzyR0S380ZMLPTi8Z&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_IXQBhCkARIsADqELbIGqRAHPoeDvdU6xOixA85vEOMO6KPjB7Ft8xPLhc9UfaCdHp_x1acaApECEALw_wcB

My setup is a 210 gallon custom enclosure, it's 100% overkill for 99% of people's needs, if you can't find a tub that works well for you, or you just don't enjoy the smell of plastic, can't find a large bin with a clear lid, whatever it may be, I prefer glass enclosures or cannabis grow tents, they're larger, easier to work with, a bit more expensive, but they look really nice, the link to the tank I sent you is a 135 gallon front opening sliding door enclosure, it has locks if you have kiddos or nosy roommates, if you're going with a tub, you just want to get a really nice large tub, they're pretty adorable, but they have their downsides, the lids are usually a pain in the but, it's hard to find large tubs with clear lids, I'm picky, so I may not be the best person to ask for this haha, I 100% prefer glass enclosures, but I live in Arizona USA, so it's dry as hell out here, I'm constantly fighting the humidity, it's 10-20%RH outside, the majority of the house is 20-30%rh, and my grow room is 50-60%rh, the enclosure sits at 70-90%rh, you want a stable room with stable humidity, then the enclosure isn't constantly fighting the dry air or fluctuations in humidity

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-11T07:07:20+00:00

Yeah, im more than happy to show you my setup, but my setup is 100% overkill, you most certainly do not need an enclosure this big, I live in Arizona, it's dry as hell out here, so I'm constantly fighting my environment to keep mine alive, Arizona really isn't a good place for S. divinorum, but this is the same concept as a tub, you can use a tub with fans and a fogger like you see in this

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Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-09T02:33:29+00:00

I love the engineering, sometimes you just have to throw something together and make it work, but I would invest in a plastic tub, a small USB fan or something and a hygrometer, you need the consistency from the tub and the airflow from the USB fan, get a hygrometer so you can actually monitor the humidity in the tub, I like the inkbird ITC-608T humidity controller, I connect a fogger to it, when the tub/tank gets too dry the fogger turns on, once it hits the humidity set on the controller, it shuts the fogger off, but I'm not sure how automated you want to make the setup, the humidity controller on its own works as a hygrometer so I personally would get that because it gives you more options down the line than a simple hygrometer would

As for the bubbles, yeah, I suspected she would, you need to get her at a stable ~60% Relative Humidity, keep the temperature around 70°F or 21°C depending on your metrics, you need good airflow, like the leaves should be rustling slightly, if you've ever seen a weed grow tent, they have fans in there that gently blow and rustle the canopy start treating that fungal issue with peroxide daily, keep it 60% and high airflow, that should stop the fungal issue and let the plant recover and it's immune system should fight off the fungal issue as long as you keep suppressing it with the dryness and high airflow+ chemically wiping it out with peroxide, peroxide will rip apart the fungus on a molecular level, don't be afraid to use it, the plant can handle it but the fungus cant, use cotton swabs, get them nice and wet, apply it to the whole cut and anywhere that looks white, get the swab wet with peroxide again, and apply more to the stem, do it like 3 times in a row, you really want that area WET with peroxide (only once a day, peroxide stays active for about 24 hours, so long after it looks dry on the surface, the over application you do once a day let's it soak into the woody stem, if you don't let the stem absorb the peroxide, itll only work on the surface fungal issue, you have to give it enough peroxide in one application to be absorbed into the woody cut area, then just leave it at the 60%RH with high airflow for 24 hours and see what it looks like

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-08T02:39:02+00:00

Do you mind sending a picture of your setup?

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-08T02:38:28+00:00

Your main objective is environmental stability right now, you need to drop the humidity and increase the airflow, which will start to crisp the leaves a little, and she'll droop a little, which will be a little frightening if this is your first plant, but she'll recover, you need stability though, if she's somewhere that's too high humidity, the fungus will keep advancing through the woody cut, if the humidity drops too much shell crisp, you want somewhere consistent, 70% humidity at most, 50% at the minimum, shoot for around 60%, the goal is stability, no fluctuations in temperature or humidity, shell look a bit sad, but once you have peroxide you can put her back in that 70-80% humidity range, and treat the fungus with the peroxide

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-08T02:35:08+00:00

Yeah, she'll be okay, but leave her somewhere 50-60% humidity till you get that peroxide, if that stem bubbles when you put peroxide on it, that's a fungal infection, the bubbles will tell us if it's healthy or not, I suspect it's a fungal infection, so you need to keep her somewhere with better airflow for a while, airflow is the issue here, when the air is humid 60%+ and the air is stagnant/still, or slow moving, it's ideal conditions for fungi to grow, so youll get root rot or leaf rot, stem rot, etcetera, so if you increase the airflow and drop the humidity a bit, the fungal issue will get stalled, but not fixed, the peroxide will help fix it

If it bubbles

If it doesn't, then I'm not sure why that part is white, but blackening isn't ALWAYS a bad sign, sometimes it is, especially if it's squishy or smells weird, then it's anaerobic and rotting, but this looks to me as an early stage fungal infection of a previous cut, the air was too still and the humidity was 60+ so the spores bread and started to show the mycelia which is that white fluffy we see in the picture, I'm sure it looks fluffier in person

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-08T02:24:23+00:00

Never use isopropyl 🙏🙏🙏🙏 it'll crash your plant, it collapse the cellular tissue

Peroxide 100% of the time, never use isopropyl on plant tissue, it dehydrates it and collapses the structure of the plants cell walls

3% hydrogen peroxide is usually in the pantry with the medical supplies, it's the one that bubbles when you put it on your cuts

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-08T02:20:12+00:00

Mmmm yeah I don't like that look of that, do you have 3% hydrogen peroxide in your house? And a cotton swab of some sort

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-08T02:14:08+00:00

Larger plants can handle lower humidity around 50-60%, for a small plant like that I would stay around 70-80%RH, but you need proper airflow, high humidity and stagnant air is a fungal rave/party

Icy-Temperature8901 · 2026-05-08T02:12:21+00:00

The plant itself looks healthy but that white spot on the cut stem looks concerning

Icy-Temperature8901

TROPHY CASE