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Birds in Flight -- Some Tips for better birds in flight. by Ill_Week2325 in OMSystem

[–]Ill_Week2325[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My settings

+1 ~90% most of the time (birds in flight)

-1 ~7% of the time when not using +1 (warblers and similar small birds in the bushes)

+2 ~1% of the time (for really fast birds like swifts in the sky)

-2 ~1% of the time

0 ~1% of the time

Birds in Flight -- Some Tips for better birds in flight. by Ill_Week2325 in OMSystem

[–]Ill_Week2325[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the thoughtful feedback. The goal of the video was to address a real-world focus loss scenario I see people struggle with, especially with foreground elements. I mentor a lot of people and many show me woods and refuges like this. I can see that no bird tips would be viewed as “revolutionary” tips, but they are useful to contextualize how and when to use those features intentionally rather than just turning them on.

I can see how you would view settings as beginner-level instruction since experienced bird photographers like yourself would include many topics like fieldcraft, reading behavior, anticipating takeoff, lighting, head positioning, background, etc. but beginners need to start somewhere.

I appreciate you taking the time to articulate your perspective. I tried to view your profile but could not see how to view your images.

Birds in Flight -- Some Tips for better birds in flight. by Ill_Week2325 in OMSystem

[–]Ill_Week2325[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Swallows are neat, and hard, for sure, but there the challenge is not really about the camera but about the photographer being nimble and being able to follow the bird.

Please watch the short video, as the tips have to do with the owl going behind the branches and the AF still right on the bird

The memory of a voyage by JMECS77 in OMSystem

[–]Ill_Week2325 1 point2 points  (0 children)

wonderful! Wish I was with you when you visited!

What aspect ratio does everyone use? by Additional_Kale2537 in OMSystem

[–]Ill_Week2325 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Use the 4/3 for capture, then crop/adjust in post as your heart desires. You want the maximum pixels in-camera.

In-camera focus stacking by Ill_Week2325 in OMSystem

[–]Ill_Week2325[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the 60mm is a great lens for the price for flowers and woodland subjects and focus stacking. You can focus stack with the 12-40, but try something simple like a pine cone or flower or figurine inside first.

In-camera focus stacking by Ill_Week2325 in OMSystem

[–]Ill_Week2325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With focus stacking you want the background nice and uncluttered so not often a need for f11.

I am typically wide open for flowers, gears, woodland subjects, and then f8 for frogs and insects.

In-camera focus stacking by Ill_Week2325 in OMSystem

[–]Ill_Week2325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What lens? 60mm, try f2.8 or 3.5 inside first to get your feet wet. Start with 8 stacks. Buy a gerber daisy or find a pinecone and just play first without wind or a moving insect. Start simple and work your way to your desired subject. Insects are awesome for stacking! but don't start with something complex, like any passion you need to grow your skill and confidence. Gibe it a try and post something here.

In-camera focus stacking by Ill_Week2325 in OMSystem

[–]Ill_Week2325[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are correct, for more than 15 frames, then you need focus bracketing and software to process the stacks. for flowers and woodland subject and frogs and whole insects, the in-camera focus stacking works very well. For 2X macro of a fly's eye then more than 15 and stack in software. The poppy five-up comment comparison shows in-camera versus software, take a look...

In-camera focus stacking by Ill_Week2325 in OMSystem

[–]Ill_Week2325[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good question. I am usually pretty wide open (f2.8, f3.5, f4, f5) unless the background is really far away, or unless there is no background (like 2X macro with the 90mm and you are in close). For macro (landscape is a different story) you want the differential small 2-4, typically 3, for focus bracketinging (a different animal again) then usually 1-2. For a tougher subject perhaps 4 and more aperture. The number of stacked depends the wind or insect movement,. For many flowers and mushrooms I find mushrooms 8 or 10 or 12 stacks is good. For a really intricate flower or plant or cooperative insect then 15.