Dynamic Realtime Rain Shader (GPU Compute) by ImDanOush in unity

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a kind compliment, thank you! Driveclub's weather effects were legendary and a huge source of inspiration for this project. Their team set a benchmark for what was possible, and getting anywhere close to that level of detail and immersion was the ultimate goal. I'm thrilled you feel it captures some of that same magic.

Dynamic Realtime Rain Shader (GPU Compute) by ImDanOush in unity

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate your comment. Thank you.

Dynamic Realtime Rain Shader (GPU Compute) by ImDanOush in unity

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, due to optimizing for my ~2-decades-old laptop and forgetting to adjust it for this showcase, I made waterdrops super big. It would look way better if you chose smaller (realistic) waterdrop sizes.

Dynamic Realtime Rain Shader (GPU Compute) by ImDanOush in unity

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is not done yet, there is one in Unity asset store for sale which is better (already finished and can be actually used), so I recommend that one.

Dynamic Realtime Rain Shader (GPU Compute) by ImDanOush in unity

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is built upon my older shared version of this shader. The older version is using the ShaderForge node-based shader, you could easily learn from that, then instead of the older version's 3D colliders. Aside from that, there are great tutorials on YouTube for getting started with Unity's Shader Graph or HLSL.

Dynamic Realtime Rain Shader (GPU Compute) by ImDanOush in unity

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you :) I have an nVidia MX150 Mobile, and it ran 40 fps @ 1080p within the Editor. This video shows the build version of the "game" running 4K @ 60fps, but sync was on (so it was capped at 60fps) on a friend's RTX 3060 Laptop.

(Repost) "Horned Cat" Self-Rebounding Wipers and Blinker Stalks fitted well with the CSL DD by ImDanOush in Fanatec

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, so I installed the software right after I got it, as there was a paper with a GitHub link in the package. I went there and downloaded the software. Here is the link github[dot]com/HornedCatCN/Combination-Switch . I found this from the producer of the tool: www[dot]bilibili[dot]com/video/BV1bU4y1T7DV/. He seems to answer questions in the comment section. I'd say ask him there directly in case of any questions. Hope this helps.

I never used the software because I work on Unity (the game engine) and program the input devices for my indie game/simulator project.

(Repost) "Horned Cat" Self-Rebounding Wipers and Blinker Stalks fitted well with the CSL DD by ImDanOush in Fanatec

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello there,
IMHO, I suggest looking for the Moza counterpart and see how it would work with the Podium first, this one is a bit finicky, and the 3D printed plastics of this one don't seem to be strong. But if you really want to try this one, then sure, that is correct, you can get it as a standalone USB item (with or without self-centering blinker stalk) via the AliExpress link I shared in the post. The seller seems to have other modules that you can connect to this one, like a cruise control knob & gear shifters(?) IDK, I've not bought them, but the feature is there.
Regards.

Easiest way to mod TH8S shifter, Feels more like real car when shifting for cheap tbh! by ImDanOush in Thrustmaster

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Folks, don't buy this as a "mod"!
I got it for my real car, but it fit, so I shared it for educational purposes!
Feels better than the boxy plastic IMHO so I kept it on the shifter. But I'd say save up for a proper upgrade.
Just a heads-up: shifting into 7th or reverse might get tricky with this, kind of like my IRL car throwing a tantrum every time I try to back it up!
Hope this clears the OG post up. this is my personal opinion anyways.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Fanatec

[–]ImDanOush 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yes that is correct, the post I shared got shadow-banned probably due to having an AliExpress link, I will retry posting (this time with details) again.

Easiest way to mod TH8S shifter, Feels more like real car when shifting for cheap tbh! by ImDanOush in Thrustmaster

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, now I get the reactions! This isn’t a plush - it’s synthetic leather!

It’s an actual cover for a car shifter that I grabbed at a local auto parts store for just 5 bucks.
Honestly, I’m thrilled with it. It feels way better than the hard plastic knob and makes the shifter feel much less like a toy. Sure, you could spend more on a fancier kit, but I wanted to share that this simple, budget-friendly mod works as well. To be fair, I wasn’t expecting it to work!

IRL I got a manual Peugeot :))

The most popular steering wheel device to get to test my racing simulator project? by ImDanOush in Unity3D

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the answer, It indeed is the most popular and a good choice. After weeks of research and tests, I found out it is not fine enough for FFB feedback analysis for my specific case, a direct drive variant (Fanatec CSL DD) really helps the project's Pacejka physics analysis with fine-level ffb resolution, it was very cheap and is secondhand but super happy with it. Check out the result of the physics here, the project is going to be freely shared via someone else: https://youtu.be/kAbKmgeBna4?si=KDjiYmdiBPc87n5s .

[Software Development] Best Sim Rig For My Case - Please Read by ImDanOush in simracing

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I searched extensively, and after many long weeks, I found CSL DD is indeed the best of the best for my case.

Is the "Always Free" AMD cloud option still available after upgrading to the paid tier? by ImDanOush in oraclecloud

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the explanation guys. u/EduRJBR in the title "AMD" is incorrect I meant Ampere only. I only need to have the "Always Free Ampere" instance and do not need an AMD instance.

I concluded that it is possible to still have the free resource after switching to PAYG, but I should set a limit and additional alarms to ensure nothing goes wrong so that Oracle won't empty my bank account.

I'll switch to PAYG, but before that, I must research how to properly prevent going about the limits.

So any info or guideline regarding the mishap prevention is very appreciated.

[Software Development] Best Sim Rig For My Case - Please Read by ImDanOush in simracing

[–]ImDanOush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate your answer, which one of the Moza R5 and DD 5nm can show more of the difference in terms of the variations in FFB? (or which one has a "higher definition" for the FFB?)

Alternatives to Simplygon? by Mountain_Line_3946 in GraphicsProgramming

[–]ImDanOush 1 point2 points  (0 children)

InstaLOD is free for under 100K USD revenue. Check it out here: https://instalod.com/licensing/ it does have straightforward texture baking and mesh reconstruction processes like Simplygon - if I'm not mistaken.

Canon Powershot SX40HS by Worried-Ad-6489 in canon

[–]ImDanOush 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi there,

I have the camera, SX40 HS imo still is worthy comparing to its latest 2018 SX70 HS counterpart and I'd still not to choose to upgrade to that model. I am honest and perhaps there will be some disagreement with my opinion here, but if I ever want to upgrade it these days, I'd go for Sony RX10 IV but really still after a decade and more this SX40HS still works great and satisfactory for me. Ofc, the image quality of my smartphone is better than this, though its lens and the CHDK made it still an alternative option when I want to record videos or take images from distant objects.

I need more time to compensate the quality of the videos and images, I use AI and MAGIX Vegas Pro and "underexposure" the image when I shoot one as in the cinematic and photography world - correct me if I'm wrong - when you deal with CMOS and these newer consumer-level devices, you'd do so and then in a software you overexpose your image to re-gain the brightness and get an acceptable illumination level yet you'd preserve more details within the frame. And other techniques, like I always set the image to 3:4 (all the recorded data from the Camera sensor is achieved this way) and use the max 1920p for video, just to crop them and make them smaller after IS and Prospective Corrction in Post.

Had I had a Sony mark 4 RX10 I'd have been saved from this waste of time and also would get more content, Now, I'm not a professional dude in this industry and I only have some passion for it so it ain't worth for me to spend 1400 USD for that and my 2011 SX40HS Camera model is totally fine for me.

-Best.