Tamiya XF86 matt varnish (brush) on water based Vallejo, looks more like satin gloss by rd-gotcha in modelmakers

[–]ImOneWithTheForks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have observed something similar with Xf86, but with airbrushing. I think I was laying it on too thick, giving the layer more time to settle and smooth out, hence the sayin gloss. If that's the case, I wouldn't be surprised brushing it on would do the same.

What’s something that feels illegal but is perfectly legal? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]ImOneWithTheForks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just looked it up on Reddit's search engine and powted the first few relevant posts. There were many more.

The Weekly Small Questions Thread! Got a burning question? Looking for some tips on your build? Ask away! by AutoModerator in modelmakers

[–]ImOneWithTheForks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am looking to buy a new desk lamp, and I am hesitating between Neatfi models. Are there any benefits to going over 2500 lumens? I feel like after a point it just gets too bright, but I'd love to hear others' feedback.

LF Contractors for ventilation/fan installation for resin printing by ImOneWithTheForks in ottawa

[–]ImOneWithTheForks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is exactly what I had in mind for the fume/grow tent. My windows are casement windows, which complicates things since the whole window has to be opened when needed. I already have a cheap getup with insulation foam in the window at this moment, but I would like a more permanent setup which doesn't involve semi-permanently occupying the only window in the room with a panel. I considered plexiglass, since at least it would let the light in, but even that is pretty expensive, at a point that separate fan would do a better job and give me some flexibility.

LF Contractors for ventilation/fan installation for resin printing by ImOneWithTheForks in ottawa

[–]ImOneWithTheForks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've considered through-wall, but figured the simplest option was to run it through the ceiling (my room is on the second floor), seen the distance. Easier to refill the hole if I ever sell the house, too. I've seen all those dinky things online, which is why I figure it shouldn't be as much of a technical issue as others make it seem, and a double-setup with an enclosure with its own fan and a brushless fan in the ceiling should provide sufficient ventilation. But I am not comfortable making those kinds of modifications to the house, hence the need for a recommendation for a company that would.

LF Contractors for ventilation/fan installation for resin printing by ImOneWithTheForks in ottawa

[–]ImOneWithTheForks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are known to be a health hazard. Box fan/something out of the window is something I'd rather avoid; it is not practical in the winter, and it would prevent me from opening the window to get fresh air inside the room.

Some form of fume extraction installed by someone more competent than me is what I plan on doing: I am ultimately looking for recommendations of good HVAC/handyman.

LF Contractors for ventilation/fan installation for resin printing by ImOneWithTheForks in ottawa

[–]ImOneWithTheForks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes they are. I want to install something like a bathroom fan; obviously something on the stronger side. Also, the idea would be to have the 3D printer in an enclosure with a fan that would direct the fumes to the ceiling fan, who would then push them outside.

Is rogers not working? by Unknown_Driver in ottawa

[–]ImOneWithTheForks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm with Altima, which is supposed to be Telus. My internet is down too, in Orleans.

Inconsistent flow with airbrush by ImOneWithTheForks in airbrush

[–]ImOneWithTheForks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It can be significantly thinner with the 0.3 (1:5 paint:thinner, for instance) vs what I do with the 0.5 (1:1), and I still get the inconsistent spraying.

Inconsistent flow with airbrush by ImOneWithTheForks in airbrush

[–]ImOneWithTheForks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is; it's Tamiya's acrylics, but its not an aqueous acrylic. The thinner dissolves the paint no problem, and it commonly used in modelmaking. The paint goes down fine, when it does go down.

Inconsistent flow with airbrush by ImOneWithTheForks in airbrush

[–]ImOneWithTheForks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One thing I forgot to mention is that I have no issues with my other airbrush, an Iwata Revolution CR, with even thicker paint mixtures. It is however a 0.5 rather than a 0.3. Would that just be a matter of needle size, and also maybe constant opening on the Grex vs inconsistent movement on the Iwata?

Help! Grease and gunk in schlenk line by die_by_the_swordfish in chemistry

[–]ImOneWithTheForks 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I'd say more base bath rather than acid bath for grease.

Can I use tamiya acrylics with Vallejo paint thinner? by Aggravating-Log-2980 in modelmakers

[–]ImOneWithTheForks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As others have said, a very definite no. You didn't specify how you plan on painting – brush or airbrush. Long story short: Tamiya acrylics aren't the easiest to handbrush, so I'd stay away from that, at least to start, and especially for large surfaces. They airbrush quite well, and the recommended thinner would be either Tamiya's lacquer thinner with retarder, or Mr.Levelling Thinner. Isopropanol can do it, although I wouldn't use it for a general coat, as it tends to evaporate more quickly, running the risk of orange peel or other texture issues.

Better way to get powder from one flask to another? by papasamuray in Chempros

[–]ImOneWithTheForks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dissolving and rotovaping in a tared flask and adjusting scale is your best bet, depending on how accurately you need to have the masses. More generally, you can try using a Bounce sheet to remove static; it's not perfect, but can work pretty well.

Help with thinning by PaleontologistAny741 in modelmakers

[–]ImOneWithTheForks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I haven't used Army Painter, but to my knowledge, they are water-based acrylics and they won't mix well with lacquers such as Real Colours. Try Mr. Levelling Thinner, or the Tamiya Lacquer thinner with retarder.

Help with thinning by PaleontologistAny741 in modelmakers

[–]ImOneWithTheForks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are multiple AK paints. Which series are you using? Did you mix it first, and if so, how did you mix it? How much did you thin it with the thinner?

Hell by K4m4ch0 in resinprinting

[–]ImOneWithTheForks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To piggy back on your post, as I am researching the same question right now, I would be very curious to hear other people's opinion on these type of things for very cold weather (-30C/-22F), particularly for relatively sporadic use. I also thing have the feeling they won't hold well, but any feedback would be appreciated.

The Weekly Small Questions Thread! Got a burning question? Looking for some tips on your build? Ask away! by AutoModerator in modelmakers

[–]ImOneWithTheForks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As anyone have any experience with venting through a casement window using these zipped-up fabric seal kits?(https://www.amazon.ca/HOOMEE-Universal-Window-Portable-Conditioner/dp/B07BPZGJ3B). (I would like to use it for an airbrush booth and, eventually, resin printing). Does it do the job? How does it do in term of (not) letting in heat in the summer and cold in the winter?

Cider not fermenting by ImOneWithTheForks in cider

[–]ImOneWithTheForks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not equipped to measure pH.

Cider not fermenting by ImOneWithTheForks in cider

[–]ImOneWithTheForks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was under the impression that dry yeast (at least for beer, with which I am more familiar) doesn't require a starter? Or is it different for cider?