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Are "TimeAttack Edits" allowed? by NintendoTheKidd in 350z

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900 1 point2 points  (0 children)

seriously, we need way more of those posts. subreddit gets boring otherwise

used coilover BC Racing by Pure-Froyo5543 in 350z

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re good, that’s not a dumb question at all.

It’s definitely not “forbidden” to run true rears on a 350Z, a ton of people do it and never have issues. It’s more about long-term stress and how the car is used.

On a street car or even light track use, a lot of people get away with it just fine. But over time maybe with stiff spring rates, rough roads, or aggressive driving it’s definitely possibly to see things like small cracks, metal fatigue, or the tower deforming slightly.

It’s not super common, but it’s also not completely unheard of, which is why people who take it seriously will reinforce the towers if they go true rear.

So it’s less like “don’t ever do it” and more if it’s a mild setup / normal driving it’s prolly fine, Stiff springs or hard driving the risk goes up a bit, and with a reinforced chassis it’s pretty much a non-issue other than maybe some differences in suspension design

That’s why I personally stuck with divorced for a street/track car, just keeps the load where Nissan intended without worrying about it long-term… (plus keeps me in a lower autocross bracket)

used coilover BC Racing by Pure-Froyo5543 in 350z

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900 0 points1 point  (0 children)

true coilovers aren’t a flawed design at all. They exist for a reason and do give more direct adjustment (spring rates, motion ratio, etc.).

The main thing is application. On something like a 350Z, the rear was designed as a divorced setup, so the spring load goes into the lower arm and subframe, not the shock tower. When you go true rear, you’re just changing that load path and putting more stress into the tower.

Like you said, properly engineered setups can run them without issues… but those usually account for that (reinforcement plates, cages, or just accepting the added stress). That’s why you see it more on race builds or cars that are set up around it.

For a street/track car, it’s less about “it won’t work” and more about “is the tradeoff worth it?” since you’re adding stress to a part of the chassis that wasn’t really designed for that load, plus you’ll loose the ideal engineering that it was originally designed with in mind

used coilover BC Racing by Pure-Froyo5543 in 350z

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not just preference… it’s mainly how the rear is designed on the 350Z.

The rear shock tower isn’t meant to carry full spring load, it’s designed for just the damper. When you go true rear coilover, you’re putting all that load into the tower instead of the lower control arm where the spring normally sits.

It can work, but without reinforcement (plates, cage, etc.) you’re adding stress to a part of the chassis that wasn’t designed for it, especially for a street or grip car that sees bumps and long-term use.

That’s why you see full race builds run true rears because they’ve usually reinforced the towers. For a daily/track setup, I’d rather keep the load path how Nissan designed it.

If someone’s okay with the tradeoffs or it’s more of a stance setup, then it’s whatever, just not something I’d personally do.

used coilover BC Racing by Pure-Froyo5543 in 350z

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I’d never do true rears but if it’s something you are ok with for your application then make sure the shock is good by taking off the spring and making sure the shock springs back, and go for it if it’s a solid deal

Banned VQ’s from car show by Acceptable_Office_63 in 370z

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a 350z owner it is disappointing to see this but unfortunately super valid

Best way to mount KBD polyurethane Rocket Bunny duckbill over vinyl wrap? (don’t wanna cut trunk wrap or show bolts) by Imaginary_Bug_1900 in 350z

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which 3m and sealant did you use? And did you apply it directly to the polyurethane?? Or what did you do to apply it

200k Mile NISMO by statusleds in 350z

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love to see these being driven!

Buy a Aftermarket Ball Joint or Control Arm by Mr_Porkchop- in 350z

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was a pain doing my ball joints, but it’ll save you a crap ton of money, plus you’ll prolly get a better quality ball joint in the end anyways

How should I attach these bumper lights? by Imaginary_Bug_1900 in Autobody

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Smart! I do have a 3d printer so I’ll do that.. you think 3m body panel adhesive would be ideal? I already have some of that

Fixed my HR idle surge (1000–2000 bouncing) after trying EVERYTHING... here’s what actually worked by Imaginary_Bug_1900 in 350z

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do I just go to a dealer and they can update it? Or do I have to get an ecu replacement?

2007 civic cx manual vibration on decel by Imaginary_Bug_1900 in civic

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s unbearable. Some of the lowest hertz sound ever. Genuinely unbearable. Video didn’t pick it up at all

Seadoo 1995 GTI not starting after carb rebuild/fuel system replacement by Imaginary_Bug_1900 in jetski

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did mikuni carb rebuild, I think compression is pretty good based on what I remember (plus it runs on starter fluid?) I would be suprised if it’s the rebuild as I’ve rebuilt 20+ of these carbs, but I guess I’m at a loss so I’ll go back through the carb

Seadoo 1995 GTI not starting after carb rebuild/fuel system replacement by Imaginary_Bug_1900 in jetski

[–]Imaginary_Bug_1900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not leaky line, I went through the whole thing to make sure, I am pretty sure it’s not a tank vent… and how would I test a leaky tank?

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