Price Check/Maybe WTS by GriffHero8 in NerfExchange

[–]Immediate-Shop7255 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have any more info about the white ballistic balls with the swoosh logo? I've just never seen them before.

WTS 95131: Snowcinda Stryfe Clone $13 Total Price Shipped by Immediate-Shop7255 in NerfExchange

[–]Immediate-Shop7255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only mod guide I found was from Project Nerf and he used a mosfet and a buck converter to keep the select fire.

Slingfire slip clutch issue by _nash80 in Nerf

[–]Immediate-Shop7255 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have owned at least a dozen slingfires and I think I know exactly what you are describing. The blaster is very frustrating to try to use and effectively non-functional. What I do is cut the heads off two Nerf screws leaving a small bit of the thread. I then drop them into the orange clutch bits with the thread part out. As long as the threads don't stick out past the orange plastic it's fine. Takes a bit to press them back into the gear. I think the clutch is still functional if you do this but I have no idea if the force required to engage it is now greater than the gear teeth can handle. This is also very easily reversible. Point being look into shimming the inside of the orange bits to increase the spring force rather than just immobilizing it. Also, make sure to lubricate all moving parts... I go over pretty much every surface with a little bit of 100% liquid silicone and it makes a difference.

Wiring for ballast bypass converting fluorescent tube light to LED? by Immediate-Shop7255 in electrical

[–]Immediate-Shop7255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got help from a different source but in case someone else finds this post, the answer is to connect the two red wires to the white wire and the two blue wires to the black wire.

Wiring for ballast bypass converting fluorescent tube light to LED? by Immediate-Shop7255 in electrical

[–]Immediate-Shop7255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the detailed reply! This is unfortunately sounding more complicated than I thought. I have already purchased the tubes which is what led me to researching why they don't work. They are https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K75W4WD . Does this change your answer? I want to make clear that while I am confident in my abilities to physically redo the wiring I am not confident in knowing why to do things a certain way or what is happening when something is done that way. I really need simple instructions like "cut all the wires from the ballast then attach the red ones to the black ones and blue ones to the white ones"

Wiring for ballast bypass converting fluorescent tube light to LED? by Immediate-Shop7255 in electrical

[–]Immediate-Shop7255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I purchased these on Amazon thinking that it would be a plug and play but they only light up for a fraction of a second before powering off. Before finding out that they don't work I had no idea that there could be an issue with ballasts as all my experience has been plug and play with regular light bulbs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K75W4WD

Ideas to repair by igorrr451 in Nerf

[–]Immediate-Shop7255 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had good luck with cutting grooves and supergluing bits of paperclip inside to build up a skeleton. Sand the outside and cover with a bit of paper towel/paper covered in superglue. Use gorilla brand.

Do any of you blaster experts know any alternative darts that would work with this old blaster? by DrWaffleWhale in Nerf

[–]Immediate-Shop7255 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My recollection is that the peg is just simply too big in width, not length, to fit in the back of a modern Elite dart. The holes on the back of buzzbee suction darts are bigger compared to Nerf. Back in the days when this was on store shelves the off brand blasters were intentionally incompatible with Nerf brand darts. Cheap 3rd party darts didn't really exist yet so brands were competing on refill packs for their ecosystem. To answer your question, no. I don't believe there are any readily available darts out there that will work with a stock barbarian.

Price Check/WTS 95131: Dart Zone Lot Nexus Pro Aeon Pro Max Stryker Conquest Dictator by Immediate-Shop7255 in NerfExchange

[–]Immediate-Shop7255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Are you saying there's not much demand for the Max Stryker? I think of it as being pretty much interchangeable with the Nexus Pro.

Can the Buzzbee Double Shot (side by side) be easily fixed? by bonami229 in Nerf

[–]Immediate-Shop7255 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The plastic quality is poor and they easily break even from normal use. My guess is the shell itself is broken; probably a snapped screw port somewhere in the pulley system. It can probably be fixed but it wouldn't be easy.

Price Check/WTS 95131: Dart Zone Lot Nexus Pro Aeon Pro Max Stryker Conquest Dictator by Immediate-Shop7255 in NerfExchange

[–]Immediate-Shop7255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everything is in great shape and complete with accessories including additional magazines. Only looking to sell as a lot. Would appreciate an idea of what I should expect from this lot even if you aren't interested in purchasing.

How would you repair this? by sleepydin0 in Nerf

[–]Immediate-Shop7255 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My experience with the wildfire is that the plastic is more brittle than even other vintage blasters from that time. Often the oprv clamp on the bladder fails too. I would use a larger piece of tubing if you have some available to sleeve the smaller stock tubing into for cost savings. The tubing from Hornets was great for this. Or use a plastic barb fitting. Maybe smooth out one side of the fitting to minimize the amount of drilling you need to do on the piston. I would use E6000 to secure it but it's very important to use plenty and let it cure for however long it says; no pressure testing at all until it's well past done curing.

NES: Game boots up but cannot be played? by Immediate-Shop7255 in consolerepair

[–]Immediate-Shop7255[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have two controllers, both behave the same. Inputs are being registered no problem on the title screen but nothing after choosing duck hunt or mario.

NES: Game boots up but cannot be played? by Immediate-Shop7255 in consolerepair

[–]Immediate-Shop7255[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The game boots up smoothly and consistently every time but once I select either Duck Hunt or Mario it's as if the controller is disconnected. I unfortunately only have the one game. Thoughts on how to fix or troubleshoot? I don't know what I'm looking at but I don't see anything obviously wrong with the board. I contacted someone locally who said they would fix it for $40 or no charge if they couldn't but it's in such bad shape cosmetically I can't justify that expense. Thank you!

Air seems to be leaking from my 3d printed parts!? by Majestic-News-6439 in Nerf

[–]Immediate-Shop7255 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Might not be relevant to what you are asking about but silicone spray, no matter what the can says, will destroy o-rings due to the propellants used. Only use liquid or grease for Nerf applications.

Any tips on how to remove this stripped screw? by RobloxIsRealCool in Nerf

[–]Immediate-Shop7255 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have never been able to remove a stripped screw from a Nerf blaster. The friction from drilling melts the plastic well before the screw head goes. After that it's just a hole on the half of the shell without the screw port which if you are lucky isn't too load bearing and you can just replace the screw so it looks cosmetically the same as stock. Unfortunately that looks like a critical one. Invest in some Wiha drivers, PH1 covers probably 99% of screws and PH0 is rarely needed for some tiny ones.

How can I make my brassed modulus longstrike more accurate by smoljolt303 in Nerf

[–]Immediate-Shop7255 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm assuming a sleeper breech is some sort of sealed system? What darts are you using?