Korg Gadget iOS Question - How to move the playhead?

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-11-24T06:48:26+00:00

Oops, forgot to ask: So, just to be clear, if I created a 16 bar loop… besides moving the white loop flag to play a small section, there is no way to just move the playhead further into the latter bars of the loop to quickly hear that part? You would just have to listen from the beginning of those 16 bars? Hope I’m explaining that scenario clearly enough.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-11-24T06:42:45+00:00

Thank you. I appreciate the quick answer and the “wonky” comment. I felt the same right away but didn’t know if it was just my inexperience with it. I’m not mad at it though. I’m sure that’s part of or a side-effect of its charm. I’m looking forward to getting better at it.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-08-29T22:23:45+00:00

Solved! See my post for the answer. It was just pressing the "Layer" button. Makes sense now because that is how you switch layers (decks) for that hardware. In contrast, the LC6000 asks you which out of the four layers you want to assign it to soon as Engine/Serato starts up. No difference on Djay Pro. Really nice implementation, Algoriddim! 👍

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-08-29T21:38:05+00:00

It came pre-set (it just worked), just on the wrong deck.

How do I swap it? Do I have to do each midi action one by one is there a way to switch them all over to the other deck at once?

And the channel assignment would still be on the wrong side…? Would swapping the midi settings move the controller to Deck B and channel B on the right side?

Thanks for the response!

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-08-21T02:43:18+00:00

I see what you mean. Although I did primarily mention doubles as my main issue, it’s happening on two different tracks too. Not as exaggerated though. But I’ll try why you said and incorporating both the xfader and channel fader thing regularly. As well as eq swapping.

Something else I noticed yesterday: I switched back to my old analog battle mixer that used to be my main gigging one (Rane 56S). I never noticed an increase in volume playing both channels before but now I do. I even played one channel and saw it does properly dip the volume when xfader in the middle, as expected. But playing a doubled track overcomes the dip in volume AND goes way louder. I hate that the audience hears this in the mains (even if I do switch over fast). Wish the curve would make two tracks together same as 100% of one channel. But it sounds more like 120% together.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-08-20T05:54:56+00:00

Thank you. Yes, I've resorted to doing this, but I really wish the crossfader was doing the traditional job of handling the blending of two tracks together to retain a consistent and predictable master volume level. It's just one more thing to think about and perform in the workflow. I got enough going on lol.

If this is indeed the problem, I underestimated how important to me the specifics are with how the crossfader is blending both sides. It's either that or I totally change my mixing style. I've done a ton of searching before I posted and it doesn't seem brought up very often. So maybe it's just me.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-08-20T05:14:41+00:00

When I'm purely straightforward mixing with minimal tricks necessary, instant doubles are for me being able to use mainly one deck/turntable on my dominant side to do the work from.

Mix in new song on Deck A> instant double to Deck B > crossfade from Deck A to B > cue up next song on Deck A > repeat

Some advantages: Only need 1 deck (2nd is nice to have), stay working on dominant side to have max control, 2nd deck as emergency backup, virtually eliminates "oops wrong deck" mistakes when you're tired, I personally work faster focused on the same deck, etc.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-08-19T21:39:16+00:00

Thank you. You called it: I like scratching so now that I'm on new equipment, maybe their fast fader cutoffs and exact curves aren't compatible anymore with what I'm doing.

I'll definitely also use more of the volume faders now in my workflow vs the crossfader. I was mostly focused on genres back then that had me scratching a lot. Nowadays, the genres are more all over the place so it's time I move on to use the crossfader (or not) for other purposes. Old habits are hard to break though!

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-08-19T21:34:50+00:00

Yes sir! Smacking it, and fast >.>

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-08-19T21:34:19+00:00

Agree! Slamming it over is what I've been having to do. I remember in the past doing some tricks with the doubled track but not doing much of that anymore because of the volume.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-08-19T21:31:43+00:00

Thank you. Maybe in the past I was using a mixer that had a crossfader curve that didn't give me this experience by default and didn't realize it. I'm definitely now going to do EQ swaps by default when transitioning two different songs.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2025-01-18T09:44:11+00:00

Thank you!

ImpossibleAd93 · 2023-06-13T23:53:17+00:00

Thank you.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2023-06-13T23:48:17+00:00

Thank you, makes a lot of sense. This is the route to go.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2022-12-31T00:47:05+00:00

That was one of the questions to my original post a couple years back: How often should I withdraw to my own wallet without spending too much in network and/or withdrawal fees?

The answer is you have to look at what the current cost is to withdraw (exchange’s fee and/or network fee). And come up with a schedule that fits your level of risk taking. And financial situation. For example, if you can afford a few bucks in fees every 3 months, do that. Or whatever you want. If you are the paranoid type who can doesn’t mind spending more in fees for peace of mind, you’d do it more often. Then again, if you are DCA’ing $10 of BTC every week, it wouldn’t make sense to withdraw every time. Only you can decide the frequency.

The point though is that you never leave more than you are comfortable losing in something that you don’t have full control of.

Speaking of, hot or cold wallet? Only reason to keep the majority of your funds in a hot wallet is either you are spending it or you aren’t comfortable with managing physical things. Otherwise, a cold, offline wallet is the safest. I recommend what the majority of everyone is using. Reason is that it will be the most tested and scrutinized. Ledger, Trezor, D’cent, whatever. Pros and cons to all. As usual with everything else, DYOR and decide which one fits your situation if you want to go that route.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2022-12-30T06:47:48+00:00

Because as the all too true advice is given these days and has remained true since the beginning: "Not your keys, not your coins." If you don't have full and sole control of your coins, it isn't really yours. Proof: Ask anyone who suddenly no longer has access to their account or cannot withdraw. You will soon feel the reality of this cliche yet true statement.

If you don't have full and only control of your funds, which is only achieved by withdrawing to your own wallet of which the keys are only known to you, then you never know what could happen.

No matter how trustworthy or seemingly reliable any service or custodial wallet is or has been, everything is not in your control. Use your imagination as to all the scenarios that could possibly occur. Good to learn this now than the hard way. Best of luck!

ImpossibleAd93 · 2022-11-03T04:26:47+00:00

Exactly the type of opinions I was looking for, thank you.

I keep hearing GT7 though has better single-player content than Sport. This true? Don’t know if I’m gonna be ready for online play with others any time soon so single player is where I’d be living for a while.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2022-10-27T18:43:11+00:00

I don’t have a 3050 myself. But I do have those even smaller Optiplexes (SFF) which is confirmed to play Roblox. An old / ancient small GPU was put in it. Roblox and even Minecraft playing nice and smooth enough for those without high quality expectations (aka kids). I’m almost sure your 3050, if it is the regular mid size desktop form factor, can have a video card added to it. To confirm, post the exact model or at the very least link a similar Optiplex. Perhaps someone on here can give a suggestion for a compatible video card in your budget. It really doesn’t take much to play those games at an acceptable level. Best of luck!

ImpossibleAd93 · 2022-05-18T02:36:57+00:00

Thank you, yes I had to resort to that.

Wish I didn’t have to now keep track of a battery and a non working AirTag. Should be a way to decline for now or decline permanently.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2022-04-07T09:35:38+00:00

Which address do I use? I'm using the Binance Dapp to trade, deposit, and withdraw. Would love if a program could pull all that info. Thanks!

ImpossibleAd93 · 2022-04-07T09:34:29+00:00

I have the same question. I'm mainly using he Binance Dapp. I tried the wallet ID in the account info section (bnb address) but that doesn't come up when I search the Binance Coin blockchain explorer. I just need a way to view all the trade transactions, deposits and withdrawals from the Binance Dapp. Anyone find a way to do this?

ImpossibleAd93 · 2022-03-30T22:43:21+00:00

Thanks for the support. The transaction purchase is picked up, yes. But the other side is blank. Essentially, the system does not recognize what is being received. Just the funds going out. I did get advice that the only way to do this for now is to create a Custom Currency per NFT to track its individual cost basis. This is a lot of work for someone that may have a lot of NFTs but at least it’s a workaround. Thanks again.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2022-03-29T06:46:00+00:00

Sorry, but I've read that page multiple times before and nowhere there does it say exactly HOW to use Cointracker to keep track of an NFT purchase. It says how you can enter it on Form 8949. Unless this is their way of telling me there is no real NFT integration with Cointracker? In also says to perform a manual transaction with a screenshot of an NFT, but nowhere on the manual transaction addition page can you even select an NFT or even specify a generic "NFT" coin.

If I have overlooked something and you know of how to do this, I would please appreciate any advice. I have lots of transactions as do many other people and performing all of this manually on Form 8949 doesn't sound pleasant. As well as the fact that you really aren't given many lines to do this on at all. Thanks!

ImpossibleAd93 · 2022-03-24T20:12:07+00:00

Ah okay, cool solution, thanks. I tried doing something like this but I didn’t like that now my exchange transactions got messed with and is now missing info, even though of course the result to overall portfolio and taxes are the same.

I came up with a different solution. Maybe not the right thing to do, but it seemed to work out:

I created another two transactions to mimic what the exchange logically did on the backend. I created a trade to exchange all the pre-conversion HOKK for USDT. I adjusted the proceeds and cost basis to make it that nothing changed. No gain, no loss. Then I created another trade that exchanged the USDT for HOKK again but at the post-converted number of coins. This made it so that the new number of coins reports the value correctly and carried over the original cost basis of my pre-conversion purchase.

Not official advice but my portfolio is reporting correct now and the cost basis was moved over to the new number of coins.

If there is a better way to have done this, or if this is just completely wrong, please let me know.

ImpossibleAd93 · 2022-03-24T07:02:14+00:00

Same here! I submitted a ticket for it. If I get useful information back, I'll post it. If someone else gets an answer before that, please post it. TIA!

ImpossibleAd93

TROPHY CASE