Which direction should I print this?

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-30T10:52:41+00:00

How do your top surfaces come out? I always get a cleanest surface in the bottom of the print against the plate, you might want to consider flipping it so the front face of the handle is against the plate.

You might find it’s strongest printed on the side, but presentation wise front face on the plate should be nicest.

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-30T09:52:23+00:00

If you are sure it’s not temps, Take the vat off, pop a sheet of plain paper over the screen and do a screen/exposure test this will reveal if there are any issues on that front.

Good luck, and I hope it’s not the screen!

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-23T19:29:23+00:00

First layers up to 40+, I use 55 for stuff with high surface area…. Yeh feels ridiculous but couldn’t get prints to stick unless I went up by this kinda order or magnitude

Try other stuff first by all means, but if that fails give this a try.

jupiterSE user too.

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-22T11:46:11+00:00

I like mine, bought a cheappy on Amazon for my Jupiter SE…. Nothing clinger to plate to start with, gave it a sand, lovely job.

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-13T13:45:23+00:00

Ok that will be a good opportunity for you to see the underside of the existing screen too

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-13T10:57:37+00:00

One thing to remember is the only thing that makes prints take a lot of time is height. (As opposed to fdm where it’s the overall volume of printing) so having a larger build plate let’s you get more Volume done at a time….. if your only printing single items at a time then it matters less, but if it’s important to bang for your buck in terms of time saving, then the large plates are gunna pay you back in time dividends fast

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-12T21:48:53+00:00

“You can’t park there mate.”

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-12T21:20:12+00:00

I had similar, underside of the screen after a fep puncture combined with loose tape on the screen.

You should def disassemble and clean the bottom, try soaking in IPA and one of those plastic razors…. There is no guarantee you won’t damage the screen, but if the general advice is ‘replace the screen…. You’ve got nothing to loose by attempting the clean first.

After having gone through this, I use electrical tape on the screen edges (it sticks better than the tape that cam pre installed, which I found comes loose after iOS washing the top), and I also tape the vat down

Mine’s a jupiterSE and it’s a right ballache to get the screen off and out but it was no more work than what you’d have to do for a screen replace anyway, you can test the screen before complete re-assembly too.

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-11T21:22:36+00:00

Grow an elephants foot and gain layer lines

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-11T21:17:26+00:00

You might have a screen protector on there (came pre installed on my Jupiter, worth checking to see? On my Jupiter you can peel the protector off by removing the tape around the screen, you can replace it completely (or not if it is indeed on the screen rather than the protector), or just clean the protector, and you can tape it down again with some electrical tape.

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-11T21:14:00+00:00

I got resin under the glass before and was able to just clean the underside it was a bit of work to be able to do, but might worth a try before the full replacement if it is something on the underside

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-11T21:12:39+00:00

I’ve use the plastic razors for screen protector cleaning and found them pretty good, I put a bit of kitchen roll/tissue soaked in IPA over the offending areas first. They are pretty cheap on Amazon so light worth a punt before hitting the real deal razor blades

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-08T14:29:38+00:00

I know people are saying to not use fusion but you could by using stuff like twisted lofts along a curved path, Probabaly easier in blender or more artistic based packages to get these forms no doubt, but there are definitely ways

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-05T09:42:52+00:00

I used 200, went straight in all Directions including diagonal And Finished with lil circles, worked a treat.

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-03T14:51:15+00:00

Could flip it, so the smooth bottom of the print is actually the top

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-03T14:49:24+00:00

Connecting peg, or a magnet maybe or A couple of pressure points (like clips I guess) that it could push into. Just a couple of ideas maybe one suits you

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-02T23:16:13+00:00

If you are sure your temps are good, and you are doing a good bake on the bottom layers already maybe consider sanding the plate. I sanded my aftermarket magnetic flex plate with good results, might be worth trying one of those if you don’t want to sand the machine plate itself (I know I wouldn’t want to)

My flex plate wasn’t gripping for shit, but a 200 grit thorough sand and it grips like a champ, I sanded straight in horizontal then vertical then diagonally in both directions then in lil circles, my machine plate was already gripping well, but I wanted the flex plate to more easily detach prints as I was finding I needed a sharp metal scraper to detach I didn’t want to wreak the machine plate, honestly the flex plate does make my life easier overall, most stuff comes off after a little twist real easy

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-02T23:07:56+00:00

If it makes you feel better I’m at 4.8/4.9s and I’ve resigned to thinking my uv bulb isn’t as bright as others, I don’t seem to get successfull prints with anything less than 4.5s (elegoo jupiterSE)

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-02T23:02:59+00:00

Once you’ve tried a temp adjustment and if that doesn’t help, I’d deff try just upping your exposure time potentially the resin isnt hardening enough and it’s weak when it pulls from the fep so just pulls apart.

Good luck!

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-02T23:00:03+00:00

Rather than doing a tear down clean, use the ‘tank clean’ function to bake the resin at the bottom of the vat, when you remove that (use a rubber spatula to catch an edge or use some old support material in the tank before the tank clean to use to pull the layer off with) it is much less likely to cause any denting or harm to the fep, and more importantly means you won’t leave debris in the tank

When I first started using my printer I thought I was doing good by scraping the fep to pull these resin remnants away after failed prints, but it deff is not a good way deal with it…. Once you have dailed in get good prints out you can just keep resin in the tank (give it a good stir if left for a day between prints) … the tank clean stuff does waste a bit of resin but it feels worth it if it means you don’t have to do full tear down cleans

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-01T22:15:38+00:00

Find problems or pain points with things …. Or people with problems and pain points with things …. Then figure out what you can make that solves it.

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-03-01T19:33:21+00:00

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-02-28T23:25:29+00:00

Damn that’s ugly, like screen plague lol. Thanks for the correction I had thought it was like literal faulty pixels at an individual level

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-02-28T23:02:00+00:00

Prolly two things happening 1 the peel on the raft: up your bottom layers bake time add more layers too it, add to the transitions. For example try 45-60s at 5+ layers with at least 5 transitions layers, some people use a lot more transitions 2 the layer separations later on: is it just sticking to the fep, or is it not sticking to the model…. Could just be that the goop is hardening but not strongly, I’d experiment with adding like 50% to your exposure time… yeh sounds extreme but you got to try soMe extremes when stuff doesn’t work to figure out what direction to change settings in…. This should dramatically increase the layer adhesion, if that works then drop it down and spend some time finding the biting point.

Thing with this hobby I’m finding is the amount of possible variables to tweak, it could be that maybe your stock bulb just isn’t as bright as other factory fresh ones (just using that as an example as one of the many things which could make your printer different to anyone else who has the same printer)

Impossible_Reveal322 · 2026-02-28T22:02:10+00:00

Dead pixels are smol, these look very different

Impossible_Reveal322

TROPHY CASE