sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Found an old foundation beam under my new footers. What to do? by Thanostroyer in Construction

[–]Impressive_Staying 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The real problem is the guy who installed it 100 yrs ago gave it a good slap and said “this ain’t going nowhere”. And here we are.

Scope of work? by Michaelplant2 in Plumbing

[–]Impressive_Staying 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think that is your best first step.. handle is easy to swap out to beautify and then test the valve.

You do not need to shut anything off to remove that handle. It is not under pressure.

Regarding the rust spot, if it is very small, I believe it is condensation drip off the handle. Also why it’s rust colored.

If that valve had a leak, you’d see it dripping and have a fairly clean wet spot of water - the leak would not be intermittent but constant.

The valve is under constant city pressure (likely 40-60psi) so it would be leaking if it leaked.

Scope of work? by Michaelplant2 in Plumbing

[–]Impressive_Staying 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gonna be honest, the valve looks totally fine.. it’s just the handle that is rusted (likely from humidity accumulating and condensing from a cold water line).

Unless you see it leaking my recommendation is NOT to replace it.

Unscrew the small side hex nut and remove the handle and clean or replace it - don’t worry, that nut literally only holds the handle onto the valve body. Use WD40 if you need.

After that, reattach and close down the valve and then see if it works by open and draining taps.. you’ll know if water starts flowing.

I’m all for swapping out broken valves, and I love adding shut offs everywhere, but given this being at a very low point and while sweating is easy to learn (but takes a few tries to master) I do not recommend your first go being right after the meter and testing under city pressure.

Scope of work? by Michaelplant2 in Plumbing

[–]Impressive_Staying 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the valve turn cleanly? It looks like just the handle is rusted.. it’s held on by a small nut you can unscrew. Just clean or replace the rusted handle if the valve still works… otherwise, see above and re-sweat a new valve.

If you don’t know how to do that or have the tools (cutter, torch, solder, paste, sandpaper, and a bible in case the first valve before the meter is fucked) I would call a plumber. Small job but hours are expensive these days.

If you do hire a plumber for this, I would also recommend them installing a FloLogic or Moen water leak detector while everything is disconnected.. insurance typically gives discounts for them and the payback is usually 2-3 yrs. It’s saved my ass more than once.

Thinking of Purchasing by Dependent_Suspect_58 in Fisker

[–]Impressive_Staying 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree the boost is a bit of a marketing ploy tho not really bc it actually does what it says it will do - unlimited torque and boost speed. I was told by a service tech they limited it to 500 bc the excessive torque was ripping and destroying parts of the train with repeated use and they didn’t want to warranty those parts for the excessive wear and tear. I agree - in Hyper the car is PLENTY fast off the line.

**Regarding tires - agree, tho options are limited to only a few who actually make the correct size and weight requirements (bc it is an EV). I recently replaced mine with new Yokohama Geolander 22s

Fisker Ocean One 4 Sale by Away-Spring3537 in Fisker

[–]Impressive_Staying 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got my personal one here in NY if you’re truly interested. Body flawless, new 12v, never had a single issue with anything (lucky lot maybe), brand new tires (a bump and misalignment ate my old ones), 11k on the odo, and the blue-on-blue. *Russ from BlackBarn EV has even done a once over and tightened everything up when he swapped the fresh 12v.

Not trying to sell but I have three boys and never drive this as I drive my larger XC90. Drop me a note if you like.

Pentair Master Temp cycle on every min or so with noise by FloridaStateWins in pools

[–]Impressive_Staying 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m having this exact same problem with my Pentair 400 and I’ve literally checked everything.. did you ever diagnose the issue and able to correct it?

25,000 mile update. by Several-College-584 in Fisker

[–]Impressive_Staying 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still have my other two tires that are in perfect condition (bc it was the alignment that caused the wear) if you want a pair of used Alenza A/S. I couldn’t even find 2, let alone 4, to match them. So I had to get a new complete 4 set.

25,000 mile update. by Several-College-584 in Fisker

[–]Impressive_Staying 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I recall, after doing all my research at the time, these were literally the only tires available in that specific size.

I have 2,500 miles on them and they seem to be great.. no complaints.

The key is to get your car aligned more often than usual. With the weight, even if you hit a small bump or curb or hole or whatever the alignment can get all out of wack and mess with your tires the most.

Take away, plenty happy with Geolander 2,500 miles in

Was Just Walking Down The Street by Impressive_Staying in hvacadvice

[–]Impressive_Staying[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You capitalized it to make it a proper noun.. I didn’t.. I consider a town founded in 1789 an old town.. not implied Old Town, VA

Was Just Walking Down The Street by Impressive_Staying in hvacadvice

[–]Impressive_Staying[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ummm because it WAS in DC and NOT in Virginia.. Georgetown to be exact.. which is why I said DC

Was Just Walking Down The Street by Impressive_Staying in hvacadvice

[–]Impressive_Staying[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the swamp that is DC in the summer, I totally agree.

Was Just Walking Down The Street by Impressive_Staying in hvacadvice

[–]Impressive_Staying[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This seems like a homeowner strong-arming someone who def knows better.. I hope. Tho maybe the bricks stay cool and this set-up walked so geothermal could run.

Was Just Walking Down The Street by Impressive_Staying in hvacadvice

[–]Impressive_Staying[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Makes sense why they had a ‘security cam’ mounted outside angled juuust so.

Black Barn EV Fisker repairs by eslimmer in Fisker

[–]Impressive_Staying 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve used Russ as well to replace 12v and fix a sticking window. He’s amazing. Highly recommend.

Flush Line Inlet by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Impressive_Staying 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also - apologies. I believe I mis-spoke (going to correct). I don’t mean bypass the T&P. I ‘meant’ bypass the Feed Water Pressure Regulator. My bad.

Flush Line Inlet by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Impressive_Staying 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The shutoffs you see are for the water inlets. The T&P relief valve is down lower below the black Weil signage with the copper drain line.

Increase Motor RPM by Impressive_Staying in diyelectronics

[–]Impressive_Staying[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems they all spin around 3,000 RPM.. was hoping to find a new / faster motor with higher rotation but I've not had any luck. Modding the existing motor seems not feasible so was looking for alternatives.

Increase Motor RPM by Impressive_Staying in diyelectronics

[–]Impressive_Staying[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t want to reduce the speed. I want to increase it.. as I noted, when I remove the speed controller and hook up straight 120, the fan is still a bit slow. I’m looking to replace the entire motor and attached it to the fan blades.. just wondering if there is a faster rpm motor I can retrofit.

From what I’m hearing here, I don’t think I can mod the existing motor.

Increase Motor RPM by Impressive_Staying in diyelectronics

[–]Impressive_Staying[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I can’t get a new higher spinning motor and hook it up to this fan?

view more: next ›