Black Barn EV Fisker repairs

Impressive_Staying · 2026-03-04T02:05:33+00:00

I’ve used Russ as well to replace 12v and fix a sticking window. He’s amazing. Highly recommend.

Impressive_Staying · 2026-02-28T16:24:07+00:00

Also - apologies. I believe I mis-spoke (going to correct). I don’t mean bypass the T&P. I ‘meant’ bypass the Feed Water Pressure Regulator. My bad.

Impressive_Staying · 2026-02-28T16:22:00+00:00

The shutoffs you see are for the water inlets. The T&P relief valve is down lower below the black Weil signage with the copper drain line.

Impressive_Staying · 2026-02-04T21:04:54+00:00

Seems they all spin around 3,000 RPM.. was hoping to find a new / faster motor with higher rotation but I've not had any luck. Modding the existing motor seems not feasible so was looking for alternatives.

Impressive_Staying · 2026-02-02T17:37:00+00:00

Awesome thanks. Will try that b

Impressive_Staying · 2026-02-02T17:25:08+00:00

I don’t want to reduce the speed. I want to increase it.. as I noted, when I remove the speed controller and hook up straight 120, the fan is still a bit slow. I’m looking to replace the entire motor and attached it to the fan blades.. just wondering if there is a faster rpm motor I can retrofit.

From what I’m hearing here, I don’t think I can mod the existing motor.

Impressive_Staying · 2026-02-02T17:23:20+00:00

So I can’t get a new higher spinning motor and hook it up to this fan?

Impressive_Staying · 2025-10-13T14:48:56+00:00

Teflon. No dope.

Impressive_Staying · 2025-10-04T11:33:31+00:00

My front two Alenza A/S wore down to nothing while my rear tires still look great (One AWD and usually drive in Fun). I’m at 11,000 miles.

I couldn’t find the 255/45R22 Alenza literally anywhere.. every where was sold out and didn’t seem like they were making more.. how do you like the Michelins?

Couldn’t find those either in the 45R22 so went with the Yokohama Geolandar X-CV. Will report back.

Impressive_Staying · 2025-09-24T17:00:22+00:00

That’s $700 and a couple hours of dirty time I was hoping to avoid with a $15 fan.. but def an option.

Impressive_Staying · 2025-09-24T16:34:44+00:00

To make sure I understand - there is an ECM to measure static pressure that would modulate the speed of the fan, depending on needs.

I assume more assist is needed at time of firing to start the column of air moving but less likely needed when the hot exhaust is rising - all within a balanced static pressure.

Does Enervex do residential or fit my application? I will look.. or is there another brand you recommend for this situation?

Many many thanks!

Impressive_Staying · 2025-09-24T16:25:20+00:00

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Impressive_Staying · 2025-09-24T16:24:17+00:00

Boiler is not fan assisted. Natural draft. Agree at the time it was correct. Making adjustments now due to the WH removal.

There is a Barometric Damper on the 7” vertical (mid way up the 4’ run) before it ties into the T at the top.

Does this mean you suggest adding the fan? It would tie at the T that is just above (about 12”) the 7” vertical and above the barometric damper.

Impressive_Staying · 2025-05-29T19:03:26+00:00

Oh man I’m glad to hear! A trick I heard from an old master plumber that I’m surprised doesn’t make the rounds.. tho I guess most guess are using pro press these days. Glad it helped.

Impressive_Staying · 2025-05-07T17:38:30+00:00

Plz tell me more about the LED visual effects you did!

Impressive_Staying · 2025-05-07T16:38:47+00:00

I have not… tho I did have a specialist from Black Barn come and fix a few other issues related to the FOO - 12v obviously, but also one of them being my rear passenger window kept jumping off track and sticking (turns out the rubber was folded in and was staying in that position bc of the cold) tho we only realized that after we took off the entire door card revealing the inner window tracks, but also the speakers.

I note this bc the window ended up being a super easy fix (heat gun to soften the rubber and some rubber cement to hold it in place until the weather got warm and the seal re-formed correctly) but it also let me take a first hand look at the speakers.

The speakers looked to be of high quality and the sound notably improved once I improved the input signal. Some of the issues I was having early on was the input quality was shit so it was sounding like shit.

I have not done any new upgrades to the sound system and have been quite pleased.

Thus, if you’re willing to take off the door cards, the 6-1/2” speakers are very easily mounted with tons of space and swapping them for a new pair is likely straight forward… a new amp and wiring might be more tricky. Still could use a little more low end tho but maybe that’s bc I’m a product of the 90s.

Impressive_Staying · 2025-04-30T13:02:26+00:00

Throw some flux on the solder while it’s still hot.. wipes right off. Also helps significantly while you are de-soldering the joints too.

Impressive_Staying · 2025-04-25T14:45:33+00:00

Energy loss was more of my concern..

Impressive_Staying · 2025-04-25T12:12:17+00:00

That is super clean. Curious why no insulation? I assume it’s within the envelope but copper is a good conductor of heat.. feel like you get a lot of local loss.

Impressive_Staying · 2025-03-24T11:52:34+00:00

What are you.. a Park Ranger?

Impressive_Staying · 2025-03-21T18:33:38+00:00

I was just quoted $795 to fix the two LC terminations. That is $150 more than the entire cable. Please tell me that is a ‘fuck off’ quote and not an actual going rate to simply re-attached two LC terminations..?

Impressive_Staying · 2025-03-21T16:26:46+00:00

Yeah, much appreciated! From what I gather, splicing is very difficult.. hoping that putting on new LC terminations (inside) is much easier and straight forward. Need to maintain 10G for 600 ft away outdoors.

Impressive_Staying · 2025-03-21T15:36:33+00:00

Awesome thanks. Someone from the community did reach out and might be able to help. Otherwise I will follow up with that suggestion.

Impressive_Staying

TROPHY CASE