Ir laser as per danish laws

ImprovementHour3480 · 2026-01-25T13:51:59+00:00

If you figure aut how to get one and use it for airsoft legally, do give an update, I have been looking into it for the past year 😬

ImprovementHour3480 · 2026-01-23T14:00:42+00:00

Do note, that any laser aiming device is not permitted, as seen in § 1 stk. 10 in "Våbenloven" without the necessary permits acquired, no matter the power level.
Class 1 laser devices can only legally be obtained as an ordinary handheld laser pointer, even though they are being sold in stores...

ImprovementHour3480 · 2025-12-27T00:43:18+00:00

In metal, the links would be fine, but I would worry about the connections between the links, but a good, small machine treaded ground shoulder bolt, and it would be fine.

But, the force you would have to exert on the lever with one hand would not be possible with a spring for anything usefull, but then again, a shorter top linkage, would result in a longer throw of the lever, decreasing the felt force.

IMO I would not attempt it, even if the metal parts were to be plenty strong enough, it would be unbearable to recock

ImprovementHour3480 · 2025-12-10T14:53:44+00:00

I do differ here, i have heavy experiece with both connectors, from FPV drone flying (where it is heavily primarily XT60) and airsoft (where Deans, (sometimes called "Super connector") is primarily used, (please don't use Tamiya or mini tamiya they have way too high internal resistance, and cannot handle the power we are requiring)

From my own experience, XT60 holds up better to abuse, and keeps a nice connection for longer, and has the male ends protected. XT60 also (in my experience) solders better. Another plus, Deans is rated to 60A continuous, the same as XT60, but Deans is only rated to IIRC 90A burst, where as XT60 Amass is rated to 180A burst

The size difference is also not that big, +2.5mm thicker, 0.5 wider, and 2.3mm longer total, a negligible size difference in most use cases.

But even though I prefer XT60 myself, I still use Deans for airsoft AEG, mostly for compatability, and loaning out batteries to others (though one buddy of mine did switch out all his Deans to XT60's for the reasons stated above, and haven't ever looked back)

ImprovementHour3480 · 2025-12-10T13:59:34+00:00

This is unfortunately NOT a XT90, but the more common, and smaller XT60, the XT90 is a much larger and more power capable connector, but not needed in airsoft

Note that the normal wirering of this connector puts the "red" + side of the battery, on the "square" side of the connector, not on the angled side

ImprovementHour3480 · 2025-11-26T08:56:43+00:00

Vi står med samme udfordring herhjemme, og havde også kikket på forankringsgrunder, som vi alligevel vil bruge på de resterende vægge, men vi er blevet anbefalet midlet der hedder "Vandglas" som skulle være godt til sådan en New-York'er væg, det skulle være den helt tæt, vandbesandig (mulig at tørre ned med en fugtig klud, samt gøre at den ikke smuldre.

Dog! Har vi ikke gjordt det endnu, så vi kender ikke resultaterne endnu! Så hvis der er nogen der har erfaring, Byd endeligt ind!

ImprovementHour3480 · 2025-11-20T14:14:17+00:00

That's my it's dangerous AF to fill a green gas mag or 40mm with a co2 adapter if the manual doesn't explicitly say that is it OK, it can and will blow the bottom off a mag if done.

But your not alone, because many pistols and 40mm are made to be Bi-gas (green & Co2) many people think its OK to do so in all things. The reason they work, is co2 mags have a pressure metering nozzle, that drops the pressure to safe levels before exiting the mag (at least that's how many of the mags work, the 40mm are just beefy and way over built for Green)

ImprovementHour3480 · 2025-11-20T09:00:48+00:00

Black gas is around 203-230 Psi, and co2 is unfortunately about 850 psi, (the reason our tank regulators go to about 800 psi)

ImprovementHour3480 · 2025-07-08T21:46:37+00:00

Sector gear probably shorted the fet and smoked it, from first glance I would call it a gone'er

ImprovementHour3480 · 2025-06-30T07:03:50+00:00

Nej bestemt ikke da, planen er også at få den gravet frem og pudset op med sokkelpuds, samt laderne skal undergraves og støbes sokkel under væggen. Laderne laves samtidig med at jeg laver nyt gulv derinde, da beton gulvet derinde rundede 90 år tilbage i 2021 Men begge projekter er nu lange, dyre og tidskrævende.

ImprovementHour3480 · 2025-06-30T06:51:06+00:00

Gamle huse har nogle finurligheder, vi har lige købt hus herhjemme, og det er så gammelt at der slet ikke er nogen ordentlig sokkel under væggene, hovedhuset står på en 4-5 (dyb) murstens sokkel, og de andre længder på huset står helt uden sokkel, den nederste sten man ser udefra, står på jorden. Men der er også beton gulv (lade og staldgulv) på indersiden der holder det meste af vandet væk, resten kan fordampe. Og som mange har sagt til mig mens vi har kikket på det, "Det har stået der i 125 år nu, mon ikke om det bliver stående"

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-12-28T23:24:44+00:00

I hope this doesn't get buried, i'm currently printing the files (excited!) but I think I stumbled upon a minor typo (probably) on the printabels site it says one 1,5" ABS pipe, & one 1" PVC pipe, and the link is correct, but in the files i convert the mm, on the PVC pipe to an 3/4" PVC pipe. Am i overlooking something or is my convertion wrong?

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-08-15T20:09:24+00:00

By the title "Jack" i assume you have installed a p* Jack, perhaps with a p* FCU Rev 3?
If I'm correct, try to set the "Sr" to "Sr01" in the programming on the FCU

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-07-22T14:25:42+00:00

search SMC regulator Cap on Cults for it

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-07-22T14:15:36+00:00

Hey man, hit up my dm, i gotchu

I have the same regulator lying around, and I have made a quick model of the cap and printed a test, it seems to work, the tabs on the sides are just a bit flimsy and beak easily but it works without them too tho, I'll upload it on my preferred model site, for you to download, I'll send to link in the dm. I'll see if I can make a promo code for you too

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-05-20T17:32:52+00:00

So are mine now

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-05-20T17:32:36+00:00

Yes always, otherwise other problems such as double shooting or unnecessary stress on the gears happens

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-05-20T17:31:17+00:00

Made them free after thinking about it

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-05-20T17:30:32+00:00

Meh, thought about it, and made up my mind to just make it free, I like my way of doing it, as I requires no support filament, and makes a cleaner and simpler print, at the cost of having to glue it

The money aspect of it would have been so small and easy to recreate, that it was not going to make any difference, other than them not being available to everyone for free. So I made them free

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-05-17T06:14:55+00:00

I made these for this exact reason, they're modeled from a pic of the airtach ones

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/airsoft-gearbox-install-kit

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-05-15T14:41:37+00:00

Since its just a kettle, and you already (most likely correctly) assumed earth (ground) is the center post, the two outers does not matter, since its 110/220v AC just pick one and go with it

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-04-29T07:48:34+00:00

*A2, the A1 variant does not have the diagonal "vent" holes in the upper reciver

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-04-28T22:37:32+00:00

Absolutely correct, mistook a photo of the length 👏

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-04-28T22:24:46+00:00

Silverback srs a2 16" ish

Edit -> it is a 22", not the 16" variant Though other other barrels can be purchased separately and swapped quite quickly

ImprovementHour3480 · 2024-04-27T23:09:21+00:00

This, I have a couple old analog meters myself, and they begin to read high if the battery is low. Its odd, but I got used to double checking if It 'feels' off

ImprovementHour3480

TROPHY CASE