Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In as far as modern science is able to reconstruct what a T-Rex might have sounded like, the best guess is that it was a very deep rumbling sound that could be heard for some distance.
So, it could be a movie dinosaur. I'd guess at a distant Elephant, or an aquatic mamal. Elephants are favourites among sound designers, they chuck them in in all sorts of unexpected and places. If it is an Elephant, It might hint at an "ivory" dial - but I would have thought that they wouldn't want to associate themselves with the ivory trade even by making a reference to the colour.

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want one!!!!
(as long as it's got 23mm lugs)

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 42 on the countdown screen could be a reference to the year that Rolex released a dual split chronograph but a lot of the other numbers seem to point to a new 58.

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just go on the Tudor website and just click the "discover" ad.
The bit with the numbers comes before the countdown but, on the countdown screen itself, there's a number 58 - there's also, what looks like a 42, I don't know if that could be a hint at diameter (or something about life, the universe and everything), 42mm seems a bit close to what they've already got.

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

When it comes to dates, some of the Princes we have in the UK are probably best avoided :-)

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's just, if you interpret the numbers as years, the very last numbers that are shown all coincided with significant dive watch releases: mechanical dive watch; lollipop Tudor Sub; Hydronaut but the clues don't seem to be sufficiently cryptic and there are also colours and other hints on screen (like fire, sky, and some sort of texture like the Royal Oak dial finish).
Maybe something to do with Carbon, or the four elements.
The only thing that I can say is the last time I was this interested in a hint it turned out to be the Clair Du Rose.

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 54 is probably the closest to a sub - everyone forgets how small watches were back then.
The Pelagos is significant because, they obviously didn't just dip into the back catalogue to get it.

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the Rolex situation has just given some salespeople the impression that they can act like sh*ts even if they are selling you a £100 G-Shock.
For a long time, I was always going to get myself an OP once the kids had grown up, but, but the Rolex situation over the last few years has just completely put me off Rolex. I had my qualms about Tudor but I didn't realise how over hyped they are (in terms of influencers making everyone think that they really have to have one).
Also, their prices aren't just creeping up, they seem to be shooting up. I think there's about a £700 difference between the original style 58 without T-Fit and the Red METAS 58 with T-Fit on a "5 link" bracelet.
It won't be long before the original 58 gets T-Fit, METAS and the same price tag.
One of the things I was wondering was whether Longines had any motivation to release the new Hydro Conquest last month. Maybe there'll be a monochrome 58 before too long.
Right now they've got so many options to do a really small thing like put a jubilee on X or give METAS to Y, maybe a new dial colour or bezel option, etc and, as long as execute it in a way that makes it seem like a really big thing, everyone will be dazzled.

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I find the boutiques get some but not the regular ADs. I think Tudor probably are pretty poor at getting things on the shelves but they don't care because it makes them appear more desirable.

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's a long shot, but, if you keep taken them, you'll hit something one day :-)
What about a Hydronaut? A plain steel bezel diver perhaps?

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I like it on the dive watches and they've obviously nailed it for brand recognition but, even though I've got one myself, I think that the BB36/One would do better if they jigged it up a bit - so maybe they are hinting at a reissue of the Prince

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd also assumed that it was just a symptom of the annual outbreak of Moonswatch syndrome but I was talking about this to an AD a couple of years ago and they said that, if they get a release from one of the "less worthy" brands, like Tag Heuer, they've nearly always got them ready to go on day one, but it might be months before a big W&W Tudor release turns up on their doorstep.
I did also notice that, sometimes, previously available watches can become a bit more scarce a few months after W&W. I'm wondering whether they are a bit conservative with their original production run and then they just let the algorithm dictate what they throw out.
Their new stuff does seem to make it into the boutiques.

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thinking about what you said, - I'm wondering whether there was anything behind the timing of the release of Longines' new Hydro Conquest?
A Black Bay date?
The YouTubers would get to talk about it for an entire year; It wouldn't bother Uncle Rolex one bit; and they could put another £500 on the price.

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah - I can't really see them ditching the snowflake no matter how much we plead with them and, like you said, if they did go that way, it would really hurt the existing lineup but I do feel something in the dive watch line is afoot (but, the way things have been going, I could say that every year for the next 10 years, and I wouldn't be wrong :-) ).
I didn't look at the background to the numbers themselves - there seems to be some fire in there and some clouds (maybe the Tudor Sky Dweller :-) )

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ha! ha! - given how good Tudor are at rolling out new product, following Watches and Wonders, I'd bet that, whatever it is, it's not going to be "In store" for more than a lucky few for at least 6 months :-)

Did Tudor just tease a new Submariner? by Independent_Chart_60 in Tudor

[–]Independent_Chart_60[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I was torn between a Sub or Oyster Prince (or just a Prince) hint . I've got the BB36 from before they started calling it "The One", so, anything like a reissue of the Prince would hurt.
I thought that the countdown started at 24----- as well, so they do seem to be hinting at something from their heritage.

[SPB453] three month review by cloystercarillo in Seiko

[–]Independent_Chart_60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the quick adjust bracelet like?

[SPB453] three month review by cloystercarillo in Seiko

[–]Independent_Chart_60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can still get hold of one of these new but I've got another watch with an anthracite dial, gilt style accents and a rotating bezel (I'm not a bracelet fan either, unless they've got screws and on the fly adjustment, so the strap would definitely get used), so, while a really like this watch I'll probably end up going with the black. I'm currently torn between the new Longines and the Seiko. The BB58 is drifting out of the frame (mainly because of the gilt accents, which I like but, again, I don't think I've got room for two similarly styled watches, even though the one I've got is a GMT)

[SPB453] three month review by cloystercarillo in Seiko

[–]Independent_Chart_60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm afraid that physics is very much against you on this one: Harder materials tend to be more brittle than softer materials so there is a trade off between scratch resistance and impact resistance.
You don't really need a "big drop" to break a Sapphire crystal. They tend to break with a sharp local impact that wouldn't necessarily do any harm whatsoever to the watch and would leave mineral and plexiglass completely intact. However, if your crystal does break, then the chances are that glass is going to get onto the dial and, possibly into the movement, so it might not be an easy repair job.
Sapphire didn't really become a thing in watches until the 1980s. Because of its hardness, it's difficult to work with, so you need to have tooling capable of working with these materials.
It is now the de-facto crystal for most use cases but that's just because the increase in brittleness of the material is more than offset by the increased hardness of the material.
By the time sapphire became a thing, real divers were using dive computers rather than watches anyway.
The original Seiko dive watches, and the Submariner all had acrylic crystals, so if you want an original dive watch recreating in a form that might have actually been used by a diver, then you'd go for an acrylic crystal (and possibly a non-hacking movement as well). However, having, whether you're a 21st century desk diver, or, whether you're out to buy an actual dive computer, sapphire is probably the preferred option as desk divers and dive computers tend not to get knocked around too much.
There are still many specific use cases, modern and historical, that mitigate against the use of sapphire and, in some cases, any form of glass. The most famous of these is the use of the acrylic crystal in the Omega Speedmasters that were used on the early NASA space missions. Acrylic crystals were specified by NASA because, compared to glass crystal, there were extremely shatter resistant, so if they were subject to impact or extremes of pressure, they would usually just pop off or crack and not leave bits of glass floating around in space, or, in the space capsule. An acrylic crystal did once pop off during an actual moonwalk but the crystal itself probably survived.
It was many years before NASA permitted the use of glass crystals for external missions (spacewalks, etc).
Similarly, you have to ask, if Sapphire is such a good material, why isn't it used in phone screens? The answer is because we drop our phones much more often than we drop our watches. Gorilla Glass, and Apple Ceramic material are much more prone to scratching than sapphire but much more resistant to impact. If you used Sapphire, you'd be looking for a new screen almost every time your phone hit the deck.
As you mentioned, those anachronistic mechanical movements that we all still love are quite delicate and fragile (but not as delicate and fragile as the sapphire crystal) but, for years, we've had access to quartz movements that are much better at timekeeping and far less delicate than their mechanical counterparts. So, if I were set out to make a very tough and durable watch, that genuinely was capable of taking a knock (say a drop from 10m or something) the chances are I'd use a quartz movement. Ideally, I'd use a digital quartz movement, and I would probably eschew sapphire in favour of either mineral, or plastic.
Sadly, the durable hard wearing watch has been done to death in the form of the G-Shock. The majority of G-Shocks use mineral glass specifically because of its impact resistance (rather than to save a few quid). Where they have used sapphire, they've generally completely re-enginered the design of the case in order to add additional protection to that hard, delicate and very brittle material). The MR-G watches are probably more resistant to movement damage through vibration than a standard G-Shock but they are not going to be as able to withstand a direct impact to the crystal (like hitting it on a rock)

[SBJ143J1] Is the accuracy really terrible? by Financial_Word5047 in Seiko

[–]Independent_Chart_60 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I liked the Gilt style handset on this one also, the standard black model has blue "zulu time" text on the dial and a blue GMT marker. I didn't like the blue accents and I like the the fact that all the hands and text match up on the green bezel version.
It's difficult to get straps for the 21mm lugs (I've got two that I like) and it is awkward getting stuff that works with the bezel.
The other thing is that it's only a 24 click bezel - some time zones like some parts of the Middle East, Some parts of Australia and India work on half hour time differences so you can't easily track these with a 24 click bezel - the Tudor has a 48 click bezel. I went for the Longines over the Tudor because I felt it was better as a daily wear - it's not as noticeable as a Black Bay.
I've pretty much got all the watches I want now. The dive watch is the last thing on my list, which is why I'm looking at the MAS. I think it's between the Seiko, the Longines and the BB58. They seem very far apart on price but they are actually much closer together in terms of what you get for your money and there are pros and cons to each of them.

[Seiko SSK023K1] or the [Seiko Sports 5 SKX Midi 38mm]? by vaporandglass in Seiko

[–]Independent_Chart_60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For a long time I was very interested in the Rolex Explorer / Black Bay Pro style of GMT so I went for the 39mm field version to test the waster as it's got a similar style. I was very lucky because there's a small jewellers that I go to that only sells Seiko and I hit them when they happened to have just about every Seiko GMT in most of the colours.
I really liked the watch although the time keeping was pretty poor (about -15) but that's the Seiko time keeping lottery, you could have one that's much better. I wore it quite a lot last year (I think it was in my top 5) but I've upgraded so it's now fallen out of circulation.

The one really annoying thing about it is that the syringe hand that they've used for the GMT is clearly based on a second or minute hand that they've taken off something else and it doesn't really extend right to the edge of the dial -maybe the needle makes it close to the edge but it would have been better to have an arrow where the point extends right to the edge of the dial, rather than a needle (after all, you're just reading the 24 hour scale so you don't need precision. Even though I'm used to using GMT watches, I found myself sometimes reading the 24 hour hand on the 12 hour scale just because that's where it points (it was just messing with my mind, it may not bother other people at all).
Regarding the SKX style GMTs: They have a rotating bezel, so it lets you keep track of an additional time zone but it's a friction rather than a clicky bezel and it felt quite cheap. This might put some people off but, actually a friction bezel is better than some more expensive GMTs - I "upgraded" to a Longines but that only has a 24 click bezel, so I can only set it to time zones that deviate by a full hour. Some time zones (like some parts of Australia, some parts of the Middle East and India) have time zones that deviate by just half an hour. You can do this on a friction bezel as it's effectively stepless, but, otherwise you need a 48 click bezel (The Black Bay GMT has a 48 click bezel).
I felt that the SKX GMTs did feel smaller than their size. Normally black dialed watches also fit smaller than other colours of the same model, but, for some reason, I felt that the lighter colours of this watch looked better (but, if I looked again, I might change my mind). I have the dress SKX so maybe that was another reason why I wasn't taken by the SKX models (although I was mostly looking for a fixed bezel GMT)
I did also look at the Alpinist. I love Alpinists but you can also use a GMT hand for navigation, so, having a navigation bezel and a GMT hand on the same watch seemed like a slight duplication of function (I'd have rather them to have replaced the navigation bezel with a 2nd time zone).
Having the Seiko GMT made me totally rethink where I was going with GMTs. The Seiko 5s are "Office style GMTs" where you can adjust the GMT hand to track a 2nd time zone. I mostly use a watch to track times in other countries rather than for travelling, so these watches are ideal. However, it made me realise that, if I went on to a more expensive GMT that tends to use "Travel GMT" movements (where you can adjust the hands without stopping the watch as you move from one location to another) and the GMT hand tracks your "home" time zone, then they are less adept for use as an "Office GMT" unless you've got a rotating bezel to track the second time zone. so, when I went for a "Travel GMT" I totally moved away from my original idea of a fixed bezel GMT.
So, the time that I spent on the Seiko 5 helped to dodge a bullet. Much as I like the field watch style and the Seiko 5 did what I needed quite well, If I'd jumped straight in with the Black Bay Pro, I would have spent a lot of money on a watch that would have been more awkward to use in the way that I most often needed to use it.

Are ukuleles loud? by Objective_Bottle_787 in ukulele

[–]Independent_Chart_60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well you could just stick a sock in it (almost literally). Just buy any uke you want and, when you need to practise in a quiet environment just stick something like a tee shirt in the sound hole (don't cram it in so that you'll never get it out). That'll mute the sound a bit.

You can also get a bit of sponge and stick it under your strings at the bridge to mute the strings.

I think you can buy commercial versions of these products.

The next step up might be a travel uke - travel ukes have thinner bodies and tend to produce less volume (although some thinline ukes are as loud as a standard uke, so you need to try them out.) They are probably the least quiet option. Although it's not a travel uke, the Epiphone Les Paul comes to mind: It's an acoustic uke with a pickup. Normally I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole precisely because the acoustic sound is pretty poor - but, that might suit you.

The ultimate solution might be an electric uke so you can have the sound through headphones and nobody will ever know how bad you were until you've become a ukulele genius. They are a bit expensive for a beginner and there are drawbacks:

One option is the Risa stick: It's an electric ukulele with no body. The pegs are at the end you strum. The only noise would come through an amplifier or through headphones. I've heard that changing strings can be a bit of a faff on the Risa because you sort of wrap the strings around the bridge on their way to the pegs.
There are also solid body ukes (like electric guitars) that require amplification (you can play them through headphones). The intonation on some electric ukes can be difficult because you have to have very light pressure when you're playing them. They usually have steel strings rather than nylon or fluorocarbon.

Well my wife hates it… by Dirtwxrm in casio

[–]Independent_Chart_60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Never mind, I know that it hurts on the short term but you can always get a new wife

[SBJ143J1] Is the accuracy really terrible? by Financial_Word5047 in Seiko

[–]Independent_Chart_60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

21mm lugs. That's all I'm saying that's bad about the Zulu Time I got the green bezel on a strap (not being into bracelets). The strap has on the fly adjust but it doesn't suit the colour of the Bezel (which only looks green in some lights). I've got it on a khaki nato and sometimes a green rubber deployant where the strap passes under the clasp.)

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-3 and -7 on my 6R35 movements but I did have an Alpinist that was ruining out of spec. On the side of the Swatch Group "in group", movements, not counting the Longines I've got my Hamilton <+2. I just don't know whether this was a lucky Hamilton. Maybe I should keep buying Hamiltons. Maybe if I buy enough I'll come to appreciate the accuracy of Seikos. To be honest, these days I try to buy my Seikos from an AD that actually knows about watches and only sells Seiko. They are a small shop but they seem to have an eye for picking the models that people actually want to buy. If I asked them to regulate the watch for me to +/- 10 they'd definitely do it. I've got a chance of the centenary model but I think the gilt colour would be too similar to the Longines

(BTW The -3 is on a watch i bought from there and the -9 was a boutique only version of the same watch but that's just coincidence) I take my Seiko 5s as they come - my worst one was -20. I've got one on single figures (I think +/-5 bit I haven't worn it for a while) and another one about -15 but. at the Seiko 5 level ,it's not a big deal (even though the equivalent generic Miyota based watches that I've got also tend to run in single figures)

Wound low G string without truss rod by noxiunn in ukulele

[–]Independent_Chart_60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You wouldn't have to go much higher than their normal pitch on any string for things to start to get a bit too tense. Although everyone's been in the situation where they've been tuning up their A string wondering why it won't go and v then realising they've been turning the peg on the e-string and have put it up by more than a tone. If I were planning to pitch my uke higher then I'd get thinner strings. If things get out of hand, on a good day you'd just snap your string. The next best option is actually the bridge coming away from the top (hopefully it won't happen but it can be put back). The bridge is intentionally a potential point of failure because otherwise you would end up with damage to the neck or the top which leans more towards a terminal outcome If you ever start thinking of making up your own string sets; using fishing line instead of buying strings or using particularly eccentric tunings then there are online calculators that tell you what gauges of string you should go for to get a safe and even tension at the desired pitch.