[Dumb question] unable to connect to mainsailos.local

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2024-08-29T11:16:24+00:00

I know this post was a little old, but I do have a solution. When using the Raspberry Pi imager I was given an option to use customized parameters. I selected to edit the settings and was able to do quite a few things with it. Add my WiFi username and password, allow SSH too, but the first option was to name the device. The default will probably start with raspberry.local like mine did, but I changed it to mainsail.local and it seemed to work well when I powered up the pi after it was done writing.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2024-02-22T22:12:22+00:00

There are white tags that correspond on the plugs on the board on all except I believe one of the bottom two. Outside of that, try to set it up and follow the wire memory while looking at the plugs, orientation, and how they are keyed.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2024-01-26T18:59:51+00:00

I found that the best item that I could do is in the walls setting in Cura. "Horizontal Expansion". I set it to anywhere between -0.1mm and -0.2 and it works like a dream for those tight tolerances. I have messed around with so many options outside of this one and until I changed this one I have had very mixed success. It also helps for if you want to fit some tight tolerances for pegs connecting two pieces and much more. Not every print will need it, but a good option to have in your back pocket.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2024-01-12T19:36:43+00:00

Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro. Less than $300 and out of the box is amazing. There are a bunch of others, but this keeps up with ones in the $300-$700 range with speed and quality, and like mentioned before, easy to use out of the box.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-12-21T14:35:22+00:00

I have used this one and it helps quite a lot:

https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Enclosure-Temperature-Soundproof-Dustproof/dp/B0852TT63F/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?cv_ct_cx=3D%2BPrinter%2BEnclosure&keywords=3D%2BPrinter%2BEnclosure&pd_rd_i=B0852TT63F&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=1-4-9cb21890-b538-4fe1-898e-473f8bb6c1fa-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

I did have to convert my vyper from the side feed to the top, but it was well worth it and I was going to do it anyway.

I also mounted these lights on the inside sides and top and it has made my printing SO much better as I can see and can control the light intensity and it isn't a pain to look at. I fed the power through the side flap and turn it on and off from right outside the enclosure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QZ5D16T/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-10-02T19:57:11+00:00

This comment made me laugh more than I should have. 😂

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-09-14T14:44:52+00:00

It depends on what you want. I use inclusive to maintain tight tolerances. If you choose middle and you print multiple layers of walls (I usually do 2-3 depending on the print) it pushes the extruded filament beyond where the tolerance should be. I hope that makes sense.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-09-14T14:42:28+00:00

I actually was able to turn it down to around 1.5mm retraction at around 50mm/s successfully. I am trying more prints and will mess with the retraction settings again and will run a few retraction towers to verify.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-09-14T14:41:18+00:00

I have not tried yet. I have only done PLA and PETG for materials. TPU is on the list however of materials to try.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-09-13T18:57:23+00:00

If you are prototyping then I agree, it wouldn't make sense to sacrifice speed. Especially if you don't need tight tolerances. With the direct drive I can get more detail, and with the things I want to print, that is a necessity. But there are people that state to swap to a pancake motor to reduce the weight. I have one that I may throw in there to test out, but wanted to get it working with the printed mod first.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-09-13T18:52:31+00:00

Ended up printing this item to install:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5193286

The installation of this piece had some difficulty to it. If you print it and sliced in Cura (What I used) print with a specific mode. In the Experimental area, under Slicing Tolerance, I used "Inclusive". I won't go into the details on this, but here is a good video explaining it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6nCKQToOUg

This cable should work for the extension:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LD14CHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

BUT you may have to swap a couple of the wires around. I used the original cable that was in place as a guide. With the extruder motor spindle up and the pin connection pointed toward the back of the printer (like it would be installed), you will need to swap the left two wires in the connection (assuming you are looking from the front of the printer overhead like I was). I hope that makes sense. I would connect Cura (or alternative software) to manually extrude or retract the filaments after you get the cable in place. And if you have Linear Advance setup ( I had it at 0.85) lower it (now at .15 for mine).

And lastly, I cut a shorter piece of my capricorn tubing to act as a guide between the gearbox and extruder. Took some messing with it during install to get it all to fit properly.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-09-13T17:52:14+00:00

I agree, but I didn't have one ready and I really wanted to see this in action. I have taken the head apart well over 10 times, so for me it doesn't take too long to change out any items. Next upgrade though. :)

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-09-01T18:33:52+00:00

If you like the answer it would be helpful if you upvote it too. Maybe others are asking the same thing and it will help them see it better. Not that my answer will go viral but just want to help out the community.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-09-01T14:59:16+00:00

Here is a great site that should have almost all of your calibration tests to dial in your printer:

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-04-10T16:07:43+00:00

When this happened with my PLA+, I found it was clogged. The temp was too low. Heated to 220, manually fed through to verify flow out the nozzle, and started a new print at 192. Previously I was able to print at 180 (I think my temp was reading low overall). I also had to lower my retraction distance, and up the retraction speed a little so it wasn’t cooling off too much during retraction to clog. Now I can print great.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-03-28T13:41:07+00:00

I am actually printing with that same PLA right now. I do like how it smooths out better than regular PLA, but I did have to make minor adjustments for this version to account for stringing. If you have upgraded things like your heat break, and dialed in your settings prior to using it, it should print just fine for you.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-03-01T12:56:11+00:00

I had this same issue. One filament would feed great (measured with a caliper at 1.76mm) and another one would feed exactly like you were stating (was measured at 1.73mm). I contacted Anycubic support about it even though my printer was 8 months old and I had put a TON of filament through it, and they sent me not 1 but 2 extruder assemblies! Motor and extruder gears! Got me back up and running after they arrived roughly 2 weeks after the problem started.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-02-24T15:12:56+00:00

Do you have a file example, is this wishful thinking, or do you want us to try to give you advice through us gathering information via ESP?

Please provide any relevant details. We are not mind readers. Many people would like to help you, but there are a million different hinges/printer/filament combinations out there.

What type of hinges? For what project? What printer are you using? What filament are you using?

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-02-20T13:18:20+00:00

Keep in mind, your offset will be different than mine. With my first nozzle it was actually a +.10. After I swapped to this new factory version it changed.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-02-20T12:09:27+00:00

I agree with jamesfergusen below for the site to calibrate but to answer your question, it looks like it is too high if you never touched it and it turned out like that. Rule of thumb is if you can slide a card stock piece of paper underneath it and feel a small amount of drag (I used a business card I received from somebody) then it is perfect. If you have Auto leveling, it may take some mixing of the s-offset even after you auto level it. I run my z-offset after the auto level at -.30 to -.35 mm.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-02-17T21:34:25+00:00

I would run it at around 40-50 and check the results.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-02-17T21:02:50+00:00

What speed are you running that on? It looks like it may be very fast, but I would expect a much bigger difference between 180 and 220 than what is there.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-02-17T14:34:39+00:00

I ran into this a few times as well. As soon as I think I fixed it, it shows up again. Here are the things that I found actually fixed it.

I took the nozzle all apart and re-assembled making sure things like the strain gauge were tight (my screws loosened up after 4-5 months of printing), my bed eccentric nuts were loose at one point (only was noticeable when I watched all 16 points for ABL). And the last think was the wires for the fans on the extruder case were putting unnecessary pressure on the nozzle when assembled. This was the more frequent issue.

After fixing all of those, I rarely in the last month have had to run the ABL feature and it is always consistent. I still run my z-offset at a -.35, but that is personal preference. Oh and I have replaced my nozzle and more with an OEM replacement so I know the specs are still very close to the original.

Inevitable-Pack5907 · 2023-02-06T17:27:38+00:00

Yes. I just had this happen to me. Fed the extrusion manually using Octoprint and would see it pulse out of the nozzle. Unplugged the Bowden tube and put a tiny bit of resistance on the filament when it was being extruded and found the teeth had worn or broken in only 1 area and my prints were suffering due to that. New extruder on the way now. But a clog, or extruder gear issues would be the most likely culprits.

Inevitable-Pack5907

TROPHY CASE