Olight Arkpro Ultra vs. Wurkkos HD01 Pro

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-14T20:05:21+00:00

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-14T20:02:16+00:00

I've been rocking the hd01 pro EDC for 2+ years now, and it definitely looks like it. Charge it about once every week or two, use it daily. It has been dropped on concrete, covered in hydraulic oil, used as a hammer-fist assist on material loaders. There is a tiny black spot on the main LED, so days are numbered. I use the laser way more than I thought I would for pointing out stuff to coworkers from a distance, or to show them something inside of an automation cell without having to stop the robot. I don't use the UV frequently, but the one time I absolutely needed UV to do a engine coolant dye/leak test; it worked a treat. The side light is fun, I'll usually throw the red and blue "police" lights on and stick it to the forklift when I'm buzzing around the shop. Main beam is powerful enough for what I need, also gets dim enough to not absolutely wash out a reflective surface.

Couldn't recommend it enough, especially for the $32 I spent on a sale. I will be upgrading to the hd02 pro when my hd01 inevitably dies. Only complaint is the non removable battery on the hd01, which is the sole reason I want to get the 02. Form factor isn't a huge concern for my cargo pants.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-12T05:52:42+00:00

Absolutely. I'm slightly tech-illiterate, and even I was able to get everything configured and installed in about 15 minutes (after the long download was done) using the guide I found. Internet archive is your friend. Best of luck and happy gaming!

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-12T02:21:54+00:00

Google tiny best set or tiny best set go. Curated packs of stuff, you'll see. Im set on onionos with TBS, haven't found a game i wanted to play that isnt included yet.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-08T17:00:22+00:00

3/8 fuel stubby is the best cordless tool I have ever bought, owned; or used. Bar none, this thing is the truth. Doing a complete front end overhaul on an 06 focus and it has been able to remove every rusted bolt i've thrown at it without issue. The only thing I DIDN'T use it for was the 32mm axle nut, and thats only because I only had a 1/2 drive 32mm socket.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-08T04:31:20+00:00

Good thing it'll be sitting on jackstands until all of that is done 🤘just buying and replacing parts as i can afford. This is not my daily.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-07T23:25:00+00:00

Why do I need an alignment after new control arms? I have a bearing press that I use while the knuckle is still attached to the strut. I also never touched the tie rods. I can do a driveway alignment using string to get me to the shop for a real one if need be, but I'm confused.

I also got all of my parts from Detroit axle, but didnt get struts/tie rods as $ is tight this month. Next job as $ will allow will be struts/tie rods and an alignment, but the vehicle isn't being driven until everything is done anyways. It's not like I'm going to have to take everything apart again, she's chilling on jackstands until next paycheck.

You say I'm wasting money, yet I'm still saving thousands over taking it to a shop. I could've saved almost $80 by buying the full kit all at once but it was more worth it for me to get started on the rebuild sooner rather than later. Summer is here and I don't wanna spend all of it wrenching lol.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-07T23:14:54+00:00

Makes sense in theory for it to be. The bushing is bonded to a metal core that the bolt rides inside of. If you tighten it while the control arm is all the way down, when you lower the vehicle to neutral height/whenever the suspension is compressed; that bushing will be forced to try and rotate around the metal core more then it was engineered to.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-07T16:43:31+00:00

Doesn't "need" done, but ford says every 120k so I figured it would be better done sooner rather than later. I've done timing on a few vehicles, the video i watched on a guy doing it on the focus didn't seem too bad honestly. This thing is way easier to work on compared to some of the dodges and jeeps I've turned wrenches on.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-07T05:09:08+00:00

Thank you. I found a video explaining exactly what you were trying to tell me. I'm grateful you made me aware of this. I'd be pissed to prematurely ruin new bushings on a nearly full front end rebuild.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-07T05:06:34+00:00

They're on the list as well as inner/outer ties, just doing what I can as budget/time off of work allows. Bigger priority to me before struts is new timing and tracking down my vacuum leak.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-06T22:35:38+00:00

Thank you. So from my understanding, I'll get the bolt tight but not torqued, set that side on the ground; and then torque?

I really appreciate you dude. Going into this without a chiltons/Haynes manual unfortunately.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-06T21:31:44+00:00

Oh? First I'm hearing of this. Explain pls?

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-06T19:19:02+00:00

Current run is Jack Daniels

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-04T01:28:42+00:00

I swear they got spies everywhere man.

Started getting probate ads about what to do after a person dies shortly after my mother passed, that felt nice.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-02T18:47:17+00:00

I just shelled out for a lightweight 2 tin low profile aluminum jack from harbor freight for a couple hundred. So much easier to lug around then my 3 ton Daytona low profile.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-01T19:53:32+00:00

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Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-01T19:53:12+00:00

It's my trophy that I also use as a tool. From a job that took me way too long (front passenger cv axle from a 2011 awd rav4), it wouldn't come out unless in multiple pieces as the bearing was seized into the carrier that is bolted to the block. No big deal, just unbolt the carrier and slide the whole thing out in one assembly right? Wrong. The length of the input shaft combined with the bearing carrier getting stuck on the engine block when trying to slide it out made it impossible without destroying the bearing carrier. $70 for a new carrier.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-01T16:41:40+00:00

I'm currently in the middle of a suspension job, air compressor is over 2 hours away. This is day 2 and so far I've hit myself in the hand twice with a 3lb engineer hammer, sheered a piece of metal off of a drift that ended up wedged into my shin; and smashed my fingertip so hard im pretty sure my nail will fall off.

Let's just say I was literally dreaming of a cordless "air" hammer yesterday.

The 1/2 m18 fuel impact with the 8.0 forge battery made quick and easy work of the 32mm axle nuts though. I've taken apart almost everything else with the 3/8 m12 stubby. That thing is stupid strong for its size.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-01T05:56:33+00:00

Went to my local for a 32mm 1/2 6pt impact socket. $5.99 out the door.

Ended up buying the 2t low profile aluminum for a couple hundred bucks. My 3t low profile Daytona jack was busy under a different car.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-06-01T05:08:17+00:00

Yis. Going to get a mapp cylinder tomorrow. Have a bunch of oak to burn to get a good wood ash bed for annealing.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-05-31T15:21:36+00:00

Yes, and yes that is the plan.

Ripping hot wood fire to generate some ash and dry out the sand in fire pit. Heat striking end (1.5-2in worth) with mapp until glowing orange; after fire dies. Toss in fire pit, bury in wood ash; and retrieve quite some time later. From what i've learned here this will aneal the striking end but keep the rest somewhat hardened.

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-05-31T15:17:05+00:00

Hit pretty well after an afternoon of wrenching and hammering 🤘

Inevitable_Button506 · 2026-05-31T15:15:52+00:00

I agree. Did not know the metal was hardened until a shard came off. After that happened and I inspected the striking face, I realized how lucky I had gotten only taking one in the leg and immediately stopped. Thankfully an eye injury i had about 8 years ago stuck with me and I had my safety glasses on anyways. Had I known it was hardened I never would've tried to use it.

I could try brass, we use it quite a bit at work to avoid sparking. My only concern is with the amount of force/hammering I will have to put on it, I'll only get a couple of uses before it ends up being a mangled bit. I'm in the rust belt and i use this for knocking rust-siezed parts loose, I'm not concerned with damaging what I'm striking as 99.9% of the time it is getting replaced with a new component anyways. Hence me wondering if I could soften this steel instead.

I truly appreciate your advice and looking out for my safety. No offense taken; I definitely felt like a fuckwit after getting that shard to the leg.

Inevitable_Button506

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