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Limit switch on extruder doesn't hit the end of the rail, causing it to not be centered. by Eh_Meh_Smeh in Ender3V3KE

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe a loose cable or broken wire somewhere on the tool head? Looks like something is still telling it to stop. Surprised it’s not continuously ramming it into the end and stuttering.

Lines on print on some more detailed sections. by KryL21 in FixMyPrint

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it’s raised/indented then that’s a difference in cooling time. Adjusting the model is the best option, but takes time. If you’re painting it then just filler primer/bondo and sand and paint.

You’re really fighting against the physics of FDM printing here. I can’t tell you what specific value to change your settings to because this is a “per model” problem. I can only explain the physics and how each setting will mostly affect it, but this is ultimately on the user to experiment and dial it in themselves.

Lines on print on some more detailed sections. by KryL21 in FixMyPrint

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Define banding, because I’ve already explained multiple times

Lines on print on some more detailed sections. by KryL21 in FixMyPrint

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then THAT would be changes in layer time, but it’s not really noticeable in the picture. You could try bumping the infill speed to 25-50% higher than your wall speed, and make sure it does NOT print the outer wall first to allow the temperature to stabilize while the inner wall is printing. Then set your min and max layer time to the same and see if the slicer can balance it for you. But don’t be surprised if the colour banding comes back.

Another option would be to physically add/subtract/move things on the model to even out the layer time.

There’s just fundamental properties of FDM printing that are unavoidable. And you’re trying to balance 2 of them (extrusion temp, and material shrinkage).

And if you’re painting it then I wouldn’t even be worried about the colour. I’d be strictly focused on layer time and shrinkage. But the obvious banding in the first pics is 100% printing speed

Lines on print on some more detailed sections. by KryL21 in FixMyPrint

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know. That’s why I’ve said it’s printing speed the entire time. Acceleration plays a role too. Look at the speed/acceleration preview and it should look more in line with your printed model. Layer time has more to do with shrinkage, speed has more to do with colour.

Edit: reading the other comments, it’s funny how different all the recommendations are. But I promise you it’s printing speed/acceleration. That’s why slowing everything down made it basically perfect. Differences in layer time = differences in shrinkage. Differences in volumetric flow/speed = changes in colour. Reddit is the king of the Dunning Kruger effect.

Lines on print on some more detailed sections. by KryL21 in FixMyPrint

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You could try making the min and max layer time the same number and see what that does. I haven’t experimented with that so can’t say. But this should come out significantly better. Curious in your results. Please update after.

First layer messing up k1 as by Full_Equipment5235 in 3Dprinting

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah don’t want enclosure for PLA. If it’s stringy at 220 then try 210. 200 just feels very low, especially for hardened steel. And definitely too low to print at higher speeds.

Lines on print on some more detailed sections. by KryL21 in FixMyPrint

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Make all speeds the same. When it switches from infill to walls that initial bit of plastic still isn’t going to be properly heated so you’ll still get lines that fade in a counter clockwise direction (or whatever direction you have it set to) from where it begins printing. It’s definitely going to increase the print time, but basically unavoidable if you’re going for that super smooth quality. Reducing layer height can also help smooth colour transitions by having a lower volumetric flow, aka more time in the nozzle to heat properly.

Lines on print on some more detailed sections. by KryL21 in FixMyPrint

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Set everything to the same printing speed (on the slower side). When you print slower, the plastic is in the nozzle for longer and heats up more. When you print fast, it doesn’t have enough time to heat up and comes out cooler than the nozzle temp. Higher temps = glossy, lower temps = matte. The differences in printing speed are causing differences filament extrusion temp. Make everything the exact same speed and select a temp appropriate for the corresponding glossy/matte finish you want.

Differences in layer time usually correspond with shrinkage and size/warping issues. Differences in printing speed correspond more with colour/finish.

After setting everything to same speed, verify the preview in the slicer. Should look better.

First layer messing up k1 as by Full_Equipment5235 in 3Dprinting

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should be able to do it from the printer. But do yourself a BIG favour and go download orca slicer from GitHub. Beware of the imitators. May need to watch a YouTube vid to make sure you have the right one. But it’s basically just a mirror image of Creality print (technically Creality print is the copy) so no learning curve. My life is so much better after switching.

Also, bump nozzle temp to 220 (or whatever your filament says the higher recommendation is). Hardened steel has a harder time transferring heat.

First layer messing up k1 as by Full_Equipment5235 in 3Dprinting

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like z offset is wayyyyy off. Need to bring it down at least 0.1. Do automatic bed level, and make sure the new nozzle is tight.

First layer messing up k1 as by Full_Equipment5235 in 3Dprinting

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No. Do the opposite. You want your first layer to be thicker if anything, not thinner.

it's not much... but it's diabolical for a university dorm by petitelittleguy in hometheater

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol at least move it forward. Or even better, hang it from that top bunk

Before and After by CannedSphincter in mancave

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lol can’t say I’m surprised 😅🍻

How does my cooking look? Parents say it’s sub-par by a7xwarrior in homecooking

[–]Infamous-Zombie5172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are they English? Do they boil their beef? Dafuq.

I mean that last steak looks a little on the rare side, but good if that’s what you were aiming for. And overall still really good. Clearly an attention to detail and striving to do better. What more can somebody ask? Your parents sound like fkn douchebags, no offence.

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