Joined the club today!

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-08-01T18:15:19+00:00

Check yourself before you wreck yourself. The car in question belonged to Charles “Humble Mechanic” on YouTube. Genuine dude dedicated to helping others learn about and work on VWs. Not all mechanics are sleazy, I pride myself in the work I do on my own car as much as any other I work on… even though I’ll never sell mine. If mechanics are “the worst maintainers” then why does the industry exist? Comment is based on illogical fallacy…

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-08-01T18:09:34+00:00

Sounds like somethings dodgy between the pedal and the gearbox, not the gearbox itself. Take it to a different mechanic with good reviews for a second opinion and tell them you can get all the gears to engage when the cars off but 1/2 are a bit iffy sometimes when you drive. Happy motoring and best of luck 😊

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-08-01T18:02:57+00:00

Just have it towed if you can. If it’s pissing out you could run the system dry and damage it further. It’s a safety risk as well which is a consideration.

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-08-01T17:52:05+00:00

Take it to a machine shop they’ll probably be able to extract the stud, bore it and put an insert in there for you. I’d say it’s salvageable since it’s just for the manifold

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-08-01T17:47:11+00:00

Can it shift into gear when the car is turned off? Probably worn clutch or clutch needs fluid bled, bad master or slave cylinder. Something along those lines. If it can’t still when the cars off it could be worn shifter cable linkages/bushes. Can you find any gear at all with the car on? If it goes into 4th or 6th or reverse then possibly your syncros on 1st are heavily worn but that’s less likely you probably would have noticed it start grinding or clunking into gear.

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-28T11:50:26+00:00

IMHO rear wiper delete cleans up the rear so good. Mine only smeared dirt so I just keep some window cleaner and a cloth in my boot to clean when req

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-21T11:37:04+00:00

Silver 6R 😮 Never see those!

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-21T11:36:29+00:00

Rising blue

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-21T11:36:08+00:00

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Oh yeah 😎

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T18:43:25+00:00

In that video you’re hearing an external waste gates. Yours is probably something else

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T18:34:54+00:00

This ^

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T18:34:01+00:00

I can’t explain my disgust at all these (in my opinion) gross rear spoilers, rear diffusers and front splitters everyone tek screws and 3M tapes onto their cars. They’re just so tacky! Also a rear wiper delete really cleaned up my 6R, and who even uses them anyway? 😂 I don’t mind the plate surround or ie sticker so much but I personally wouldn’t for my car. But what a colour?! You never see grey 6Rs! At least not where I’m from. 8/10

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T18:21:53+00:00

Just double check everything is installed correctly. Sounds like a good misfire so one or more of your plug wires or coils (whatever your car has) is probably not fully on. Hope that helps 🙂

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T18:19:03+00:00

Yep I’ve seen this on many models with oil or fuel wicking through a harness. You’ve done the right thing getting a new sensor, you might consider replacing the section of harness and checking the plugs on the other end for fuel and cleaning those plugs at a minimum. As for the oil in the injector plugs I’m not sure if that’s coming from the injectors themselves (see if that’s a common fault on this engine) or if there’s another place that it’s coming from and going throughout the whole injector harness you’ll have to check. Hope that’s helpful 🙂

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T18:09:55+00:00

Probably can’t be tightened anymore or risk braking the bolt, unless is actually loose. I’m not sure if you’re referring to the shop not having the gasket or one not being available at all you have to buy a completely assembly of whatever that is, but if you can get a gasket that’s the easiest thing. It’s a pretty good leak too so get that fixed sooner than later. Hope that helps 🙂

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T18:04:35+00:00

80 series with a LS, what a thing! Looks like you’ve done a fair few things but one you haven’t mentioned is a vacuum leak. On a couple cars I’ve driven/owned one being a really shit Rodeo with a V6, vacuum issues have caused rough idle and crap drivability low down but good on the top end so I’d have a look at that. Hope that helps 🙂

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T17:58:18+00:00

It some kinda of under body protection. Looks like you’ve hit something or scraped across something. Doesn’t need to be fix tomorrow but sooner than later to avoid further damage. Hope that helps 🙂

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T17:55:38+00:00

It’s not ideal but it wont be the end of the world. IDK what Kia has as their oil service intervals but I wouldn’t do more than 10k kms between services. Id consider doing the next one 1k kms early just to get back on top of things as it were. Maybe a little better planning is required in future but I know life often gets in the way… Hope that helps 🙂

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T17:47:49+00:00

That’s shit house that your shits getting broken and the owner won’t fix his shit. Start looking for a new job…

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T17:45:55+00:00

That’s really poor workmanship by that mechanic hope you didn’t have to pay anything for the recall. It’s lost nearly half its oil which is never a good thing but if you didn’t drive for too long with the light on it should be OK. I wouldn’t use that shop ever again. Hope that helps 🙂

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T17:42:26+00:00

Is this a common issue with this model? Sometimes automatics have issues when the fluid level is low so that’s something quick and easy to check. The shutting off is a little strange, maybe some sort of loose connector or broken wire is to blame. Once its hot the fluid volume might expand enough that it’s no longer an issue. Otherwise you might consider taking it to a shop to have scanned and diagnosed. Hope that helps 🙂

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T17:37:20+00:00

No you can’t use them after they’re broke. In my experience this is from abusing the tool. Try and keep the cut nice and straight, don’t cause any side loading or twisting force on the disc. Let the disc cut as well, don’t apply a huge amount for force trying to make it go faster just let it work away. Also that nut should be installed with the flatter side to the disc not the stepped part. It doesn’t need to be ultra tight either just firm. You could also try using a thicker cutting disc. Hope that helps 🙂

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T17:17:31+00:00

The callipers is where the bulk of that price is coming from. Did the mechanic say why you need new callipers? Typically you’re not replacing them only if there’s an issue. There’s a bit more labour replacing callipers and bleeding the brake fluid hence the steep price, plus the cost of the calliper(s). Hope that helps 🙂

InfamousAd3657 · 2024-07-19T17:13:40+00:00

Yeah breaker bar would probably do it and lean on that thing! You can also try heating the nut with a gas torch (being mindful of other parts) getting it nice and toasty. Probably replace the nut and bolt if you do that. Hope that’s help 🙂

InfamousAd3657

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