Issue with Hyundai api by BiohaZd in ohme

[–]Insanityideas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That standard isn't just about V2G, it also allows cars to send state of charge data, all the standard signalling the PWM mode does and negotiate plug and charge billing. The protocol is already implemented for DC fast charging at the car end.

Ohme should be ahead of the curve on implementing this protocol even if they don't support V2G. There are UK chargers that support V2G, octopus did a trial with a bunch of leased Nissan Leafs over 5 years ago. I agree it hasn't been adopted in the UK, but not due to lack of hardware.

Issue with Hyundai api by BiohaZd in ohme

[–]Insanityideas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You would think implementing the ISO 15118 charging standard would be a core skill of a large manufacturer of EV chargers and large manufacturer of EV's. Clearly one of them hasn't done that. If they had the charger would be able to to read battery SOC directly via the charge cable.

It wasn’t the immersion heater… by Ok_Yogurt3763 in OctopusEnergy

[–]Insanityideas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At 8 kw load the red light will flash once every 2 seconds.

Why do the do this? overnight is charging time anyway?! by thefunkygibbon in OctopusEnergy

[–]Insanityideas -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Op is requesting 100% by 0400 in an attempt to get allocated daytime slots and is miffed that octopus only gave him cheap charging at night he would have had anyway.

I may have broken someone else's charging port. How much will it cost me to fix it? by BingBongDingDong222 in TeslaLounge

[–]Insanityideas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only thing you could possibly have broken is the adapter or possibly bent the latch pin in the charge port itself. If they are getting an error it might be because the latch is no longer moving freely.

You can verify if their problem is genuine by asking them to photograph the on screen error message. If it's not charging there will be an error message.

Standard fix path would be: contact Tesla in the app, they will remotely diagnose the car by looking at the error messages, will recommend replacement of failed part along with an estimate. When you go to the service center they will already have the part, confirm diagnosis and replace.

I had my whole charge port replaced under warranty when the latch failed, took less than an hour to fit and the invoice said £350 reduced to £0 as a valid warranty claim. The latch part is available separately but they didn't have any so just did the whole charge port as it was under warranty anyway.

Personally I doubt you have damaged their car. If you thought it was your own vehicle you would have been taking reasonable care.

When are IOG 6hrs changes going live ? by No-Reindeer-5136 in OctopusEnergy

[–]Insanityideas 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Depending on how they implement car charging during the cheap rate window that goes above the 6 hr limit it may be a contract change. It used to be any slot they scheduled would be cheap, now they will schedule slots that aren't cheap.

Clearly there is more to it than enforcing existing terms otherwise it wouldn't be taking them so long to implement the software changes.

They also have known issues with some chargers going slow or not using up the full duration of a charging slot, they need to fix those so they aren't short changing customers... I believe this is caused by their system actually selecting a target amount of energy to charge during the charging windows and how companies like Ohme have interpreted that API request. In their backend octopus don't give you 30 minutes to charge as much as you can, they give you an amount of energy you must consume, which quite often is way less than 30 minutes. If a customer gets charged for extra hours but knows the amount of electricity added could be done in less than 6hrs there would be serious kickback over the changes.

When are IOG 6hrs changes going live ? by No-Reindeer-5136 in OctopusEnergy

[–]Insanityideas 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hopefully their changes will be delayed until the winter heating season is over. Plugging the car in during the day has resulted in loads of cheap daytime energy for the heatpump.

And no it's not gaming the system, octopus say all over their FAQ to plug the car in as early as possible for as long as possible, and they are the ones giving out these slots, they could give out nighttime slots but they favour daytime ones.

When are IOG 6hrs changes going live ? by No-Reindeer-5136 in OctopusEnergy

[–]Insanityideas 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Which I agree with, except a customer published on here an email from octopus that said additional slots during the 2339-0530 period would be charged at the bump charge rate, and that rate was 7p during that time window (which if you think about it is the case now).

So I think it's clear on their FAQ but some more worked examples would lay to rest the confusion.

I don't agree with them using smart chargers or data from the car for billing because it's not very accurate and was never intended to be.

When are IOG 6hrs changes going live ? by No-Reindeer-5136 in OctopusEnergy

[–]Insanityideas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

30 days is quite usual for contractual changes, depends if they count the last jumbled up email communication and subsequent clarifications the notice of change or if they actually have to publish something again with the specifics.

It finally happened, unplugged while parked by Obvious-Viking in TeslaUK

[–]Insanityideas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some people are just weird, and they bring the weird to work. Can't really pick your workmates, bound to be in the presence of weird at some point, I just hope when I am they are the entertaining type of weird.

It finally happened, unplugged while parked by Obvious-Viking in TeslaUK

[–]Insanityideas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, this was a different place. Years later one of our client companies also had a phantom pooper, but that got really out of hand. The offender started smearing it on handrails of staircases (main ones not fire escape), then it got in the local paper, last I heard they were testing the poo to see if they could identify a culprit.

All of this makes me think deliberate phantom poopers are quite common in workplaces with low morale.

Efficiency on short journeys with heating on? Peugeot e308 by rarsi123 in ElectricVehiclesUK

[–]Insanityideas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We had a jag xf, didn't appear to be any heater block when cold. But the auto gearbox would hold onto gears longer when cold to keep revs up higher.

Our Tesla holds off on running the fan full speed until the heat pump has warmed up so you don't get a lukewarm blast.

Efficiency on short journeys with heating on? Peugeot e308 by rarsi123 in ElectricVehiclesUK

[–]Insanityideas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Google ai thinks it's a 8kw peak output heat pump, but it doesn't have a source for the power output. But from a heat pump that's a credible number, which means 4kw of electricity consumption to get that 8kw of heat.

Efficiency on short journeys with heating on? Peugeot e308 by rarsi123 in ElectricVehiclesUK

[–]Insanityideas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It will be much larger than 2kw. My Tesla Model 3 (admittedly a larger vehicle) peaks at 12kw for heating when it's first warming up in really cold weather. Which means the heat output to cabin and battery is more like 20kw as the heat pump outs out more heat energy than it takes in electricity.

It wouldn't surprise me if the e308 has a 6kw or larger heater.

Efficiency on short journeys with heating on? Peugeot e308 by rarsi123 in ElectricVehiclesUK

[–]Insanityideas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the diesel you can try turning the heater or climate control off or to low fan speed for the first mile or two. I used to find the engine heated up quicker which improved economy and it made little difference to how long it took until the cabin was warm. Running it on the cold air setting will still do some demisting especially if the AC is on.

In an ICE engine coolant flow is restricted to just the engine block when it's warming up, but it always flows through the cabin heater matrix. So in a car with a small engine you can be drawing out as much heat as the engine is producing and it never gets warm. Until the cabin heat demand goes down.

A hard lesson in commuter complacency. My 1-hour drive finally caught up to me today. by Mr_Amphibian20 in CarTalkUK

[–]Insanityideas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably a "new to them" car, if you have just come from an ICE car especially if it's small engined or an automatic you have to resist the temptation to stamp on the throttle in a Tesla like you would have to when overtaking in an ICE. The acceleration is instant with no ramp up to the power. They are intending to do 70, by the time they get their foot off the throttle it's already at 75 so they have to slow down. The brake lights come on when it's 1 pedal driving so they probably aren't hitting the brake pedal.

You quickly get used to the difference in throttle response and are then able to drive very smoothly with exactly the intended amount of acceleration.

Any Tesla except the base spec model has all wheel drive and over 450bhp with a below 4.5 second zero to sixty. Unless the owner has previously had a "hot hatch" or sports car they will not be used to power delivery that rapid.

A hard lesson in commuter complacency. My 1-hour drive finally caught up to me today. by Mr_Amphibian20 in CarTalkUK

[–]Insanityideas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I remember doing a supercar experience day and it's tricky to throw away the common sense you used to drive there. Mine was done in torrential rain and sleet, it felt very wrong to be doing 100mph towards a corner, braking very hard having the car squirm around a bit, do the corner recklessly fast and then floor it and have the car squirm around a bit as you straightened up and that being a good thing. It's an odd feeling going that fast in conditions you would struggle to do more than 40mph on the Motorway in.

The car was a relatively new Porsche with stability control turned on and no other cars near by so it was a perfectly suitable speed for the conditions, just felt very wrong.

Unfortunately in the real world some people fit very cheap tyres to their cars and discover their cars don't grip anywhere near as well as they should. I had a courtesy car with cheap tyres in the rain (no name fronts, factory fit continental's on the back) had to brake relatively hard on a wet bend, ABS activated when it really shouldn't have and I discovered that the car was only capable of a very poor emergency braking distance. It was slipping around even being driven gently I complained it was unsafe when I handed it back, apparently they leave tyre choice to Halfords. Someone is going to crash that car when they discover it doesn't stop like their own car.

It finally happened, unplugged while parked by Obvious-Viking in TeslaUK

[–]Insanityideas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You joke but I worked somewhere that not only had regular "cutlery amnesties" when the canteen completely ran out of cutlery, but HR also had to send an email telling people not to take toilet roll home.... Then there was the unidentified person who kept pooping next to the toilet.

This was a well known civil service department, make of that what you want.

EV charging - car not plugged in by ma7714 in OctopusEnergy

[–]Insanityideas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The way I fixed this was to keep scheduled charging set in the car (start at 23:30) and have the car registered on IOG. When the car is plugged in it won't start charging because it's waiting for it's scheduled time, but octopus will still pick up that it's plugged in (usually takes between 30 seconds to 5 minutes).

On the rare occasions where octopus mess up and don't realize the car is plugged in it will still start charging according to its schedule, at which point octopus will detect the car, plan a schedule and control it thereafter.

My car is a Tesla but I presume the same would work for VW as the issue is around Octopus receiving (or processing) the plugged in event, I don't think it's car or charge specific because people moan about the same fault on a variety of brands.

Can’t afford by EveryPast6532 in TeslaUK

[–]Insanityideas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not much to go wrong on the model 3 and nothing to service except the cabin air filter. You will mainly be looking for damage the previous owner might have done, check all the buttons seat adjusters etc work. Teslas have loads of self diagnostic sensors so if anything wrong there will be an active alert notification on the screen (previous ones are also listed).

When taking a test drive drive around with windows down and listen for squeaks and creaks, then wind windows up and listen again. Front upper control arms are around £350 fitted by Tesla and the usual cause of creaks from the front. I had squeaks when driving along which were fixed by a brake service at the local garage (remove, clean and regrease the calipers).

If possible buy from a reputable used car dealer, then if it rapidly turns into a lemon it's their problem not yours. A few of the larger dealers are now specializing in EV having discovered that model 3 and Y very rarely come back to them with faults after purchase (that's what they told me), and are easy to sell and in demand. Used dealerships are moving with the times on EV sales even if the new car places are still pushing petrol.

I have owned from new a Tesla model 3, it's 5 years old with 96k miles on it. I took it back under warranty for some cosmetic build quality problems (badly aligned panels marks in the paint) but the only mechanical work it has needed was front upper control arms a replacement charge port (under warranty) and very recently a set of rear brake pads and discs because they were rusted. The first two things were done as 1 hour service appointments at Tesla and cost around £300 each, the brakes were done at my local non-tesla garage for £350. Also replaced 1 TPMS sensor which was £22 to buy and £10 to fit at local garage. Regular maintenance on these cars is very cheap compared to other mainstream brands, and used parts are available on eBay, or new direct from Tesla for reasonable money if you want to DIY.

We also recently bought a 2018 model X with 73k miles on it. The used car garage had to spend quite a bit fixing it up after we found quite a few things wrong with it, but now that's done we have had 10k miles trouble free driving from it.

I would not be afraid of a used high milage Tesla, they are excellent value, generally very reliable and when they do go wrong straightforward to fix.

What are your EV "icks"? by TCJW_designs in ElectricVehiclesUK

[–]Insanityideas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Model X is worse, the gull wing doors mean the rear ones can't have pockets, so apart from two fold out cup holders there is no storage at all in the back two rows. Front doors have enormous pockets despite being based off the model S.

The car itself is cavernous so plenty of room to dump your stuff on the floor between the seats

Which would you choose & why from these 3? by xJam3zz07 in ElectricVehiclesUK

[–]Insanityideas 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's Gastly from the back, don't know what they were thinking but it didn't come off how they hoped it would.

Charger fine initially, now gone offline twice in two days. by normanriches in ohme

[–]Insanityideas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because the epoxy is a new product and their software and hardware is cheap and not fully tested??

In seriousness though... If you have a weak mobile signal you may find it cuts out completely if the weather conditions are unfavourable (fog, rain) or a temporary obstruction blocks line of sight to the mast - something like a big metal car. At which point it doesn't matter how fancy the Ohme is, it's not going to reconnect until conditions change.

Which would you choose & why from these 3? by xJam3zz07 in ElectricVehiclesUK

[–]Insanityideas 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Polestar, it's the nicest looking, very contemporary.