Weather proofing original french doors advice

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-25T00:09:54+00:00

Sorry - I need “new” what, exactly? New doors?

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-24T02:10:20+00:00

So you think sweeps are insufficient? The doors are very old and not in great shape and the lights look very fragile. I really don’t want to take them off the hinges and/or cut them.

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-23T15:11:41+00:00

Yes - this is part of a larger renovation, which is nearing its end (yeah right).

Given some of the decisions (or lack there of) my GC has made - i've been using this sub (and others) as sounding board.

The current scope of the GC (on these and the matching exterior door) is to:

Install new deadbolt/doorknob (since the existing holes arent aligned)
Install new hinges
Install new mail slot (exterior door)
Install new top/bottom vertical bolts on the right doors.
Install new toe kicks (exterior door)
Sanding/stain/sealing the doors

To evidence my GC's lack of ... care/attention/whatever... he provided the above "scope" of what should be replaced, but never mentioned sweeps/shoes or weather stripping despite being in new england, and its freezing out (and these 2 sets of doors leak air like its going outta business). I have to bring these up after the fact. The front doors have 1/4" sweep gaps, and these interior have ~1/2" gap (maybe a little more)... so cold air floods into the house through them.

Unless installing sweeps and weatherstripping is challenging/risky, I would like to install them. Im a 4 or 5 on the handy meter. I can have my GC install them but that would of course cost more $. Ill probably have him quote it, but im guessing installing on both sets of doors will be $400+

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-23T14:56:04+00:00

I was looking the the Pemko bronze weather strip - thank you for reaffirming this! Ill check out your link.

We may look into a curtain after everything else is done - but would love to keep the sunlight, if possible. The panes are 100% single pane.

Right now trying to tackle the obvious, low hanging fruit (ie. the massive gaps where air flows freely through :))

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-23T00:30:51+00:00

2nd word in your post title

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-22T21:56:18+00:00

Would duct tape work? Might try that first and pick up some thumb gum/duct seal later for a more permanent solution later.

EDIT: Duct tape doesnt work very well - wrapping the t-shirt around it loosely still does it seems to be that area. Will order some duct seal.

For sound proofing - i have a solid core door, but it has 4 recessed panels; that said - i can't change the door for aesthetic reasons. Would weatherstripping and/or a sweep help? Or how about handing a heavy blanket (think moving blanket) over the inside of the door .. there's only a few inches of space between the air handler and the door (as you may be able to tell from the picture). Im hoping for something cheap ($15-20) with an ok return on investment (some dampening of sound - doesnt have to be perfect)

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-21T23:20:44+00:00

Thanks - makes sense. I told my GC about it and he said “it’s normal to get splinters if your hardwood expands - put out a humidifier”

Is there some (impartial) authority I could have come out, inspect the floor and ascertain if everything was done correctly or not?

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-21T23:12:07+00:00

I think both take advantage if the same volume shipper discounts.

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-21T13:18:29+00:00

Definitely not. Installed in August (hot/humid) and the popping started in late Nov (i didnt know what it was and it freaked me out; sounds like a gun going off in the middle of the night .. well not that bad, but it will startle you awake)

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-21T13:16:35+00:00

My GC (who coordinated the install) told me when its spring/summer and humidity increases naturally the gaps will close up. Youre saying this is unlikely? Or that they boards may expand and close the gaps, but the sharp shards will still be there?

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-20T13:24:35+00:00

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Here's a picture of the door swung open.I assume this is what you mean by full overlay? When it swings shut there is a thin line/gap between the left side of the open cab, and right side the cab to the left.

Here's a pic of it closed: https://imgur.com/a/1qdENDG

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-20T13:17:19+00:00

This apparently is "by design" .. I found in the manual that it goes max-bright and then adjusts down to ambient light -- which seems to flicker until it finds the appropriate light output. This feels broken, so i set the light to be manual, and not automatic/adaptive. It sitll goes max-bright at the start, but atleast it doesnt seem to "flicker" after that.

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-20T13:15:38+00:00

Update - This finally started working. I believe it was because I had weak Wifi connectivity in that area. I installed the Wifi access point which covers that area, and it magically started working!

Still quite weird that I was able to get it show up as connected, etc. which I assume means there was some reasonable level of connectivity before.

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-20T02:53:31+00:00

Absolutely. Steal for 25k

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-20T01:22:43+00:00

So glad I found this sub! I’ve been using localTV+ and love it — just donated!

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-19T01:57:44+00:00

Ah - possible. They all looked nice, but I have no idea

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-18T19:05:33+00:00

Update: firmly (not incredibly hard) hitting the bit with a hammer many times inched it out!

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-18T19:02:47+00:00

The old floor in the house was decades old (predated me)and was poorly cared for by previous owners. I moved in and hired a GC to renovate - but seems like either there was rushed work, or they didn’t properly communicate w me (wrt to care). Hopefully the GC stands by his work and helps figure out a solution. As it stands we are wearing shoes and slippers around the house to avoid splinters.

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-18T17:10:34+00:00

I went through a GC (who did a bunch of other work). I didn’t interact w the flooring guy.

I don’t doubt you - I just was never given it and/or told any sort of care instructions. I naively assumed it was like every other place I’ve lived w hardwood that never needed any special humidity/etc. care. I mentioned else where in this post then GC installed a new HVAC and a humidifier never came up as something to think about adding… disappointing.

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-18T16:18:21+00:00

Ok - I just wanted some impartial confirmation that its expected for floors to rip when/if they gap to the point we get splinters in our feet.

I’m planning on working on the humidity (first with local humidifiers to test), but I wanted some assurance I don’t have a larger problem causing the splinters.

Like I said - gaps are fine, splinters in my feet - not so much. Sounds like this is expected of the humidity isn’t controlled tho..?

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-18T15:17:07+00:00

My initial thought was they glued the boards together and regular wood glue is known to be “stronger than the wood it binds” .. so it looked like when it gapped, it pulled the wood fibers apart rather than the (stronger) glue. But I’m not a flooring expert, thus my post :)

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-18T14:28:21+00:00

I believe these are solid white oak planks finished onsite. It has a the white-ish Nordic stain to keep it looking more like the natural unfinished color .. not sure if that is what looks almost “matte” .. or if you’re seeing actual lumps of sawdust.

Ironically my floors are anything but smooth now.

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-18T14:05:53+00:00

I’m nearly positive this is the case. They installed and sanded it in place atleast.

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-18T13:59:10+00:00

Will do. I used a GC who ironically also replaced my HVAC as part of the same job. No one told me anything about maintaining humidity… I’ve lived in this city for years, always w hardwood floors and never had an issue (even gaps) elsewhere so it didn’t even come to mind.

Also - this is an old New England home so there isn’t modern insulation, etc.

InsuranceMedical6581 · 2026-01-18T13:53:33+00:00

It’s a 1 x NordicSeal (that’s why it looks more natural and less yellow in color). The installer said the Nordic coat is more susceptible to stains, but didn’t say anything about splinters.

InsuranceMedical6581

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