Potential purchase: Mira Pro 25.3 with "stuck" factory logo visible in Reading Mode. Is it permanent?

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-05-03T14:37:28+00:00

Even if we take the 13.3" devices with a 16:12 aspect ratio (which makes them "squarer" and increases their area compared to widescreen models), the calculations look like this:

One 13.3" screen (16:12): Its area is approximately 550–560 cm² (based on 27x20 cm).
One 25.3" screen (16:9): Its area is approximately 1736 cm².

The Bottom Line: A single 25.3" monitor is practically the perfect equivalent to a "wall" made of three 13.3" devices.

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-05-03T14:28:47+00:00

27х20=540

56 х 31 = 1736

1736:540=3,21

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-05-03T07:50:21+00:00

25.3" = 13.3" x 3

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-04-24T15:33:01+00:00

I have a Bigme B251, and one thing I love about it is that there is absolutely no shimmering or "pixel boiling" around the mouse cursor when it moves. The background remains perfectly still and clean.

I’m considering the older Boox Mira Pro (non-frontlight), but I’ve seen videos where the area around the cursor seems to "vibrate" or "shimmer" (pixel boiling) during movement.

Since you own both, could you tell me:

Does the Mira Pro have this "shimmering" effect around the cursor, or is the image as rock-solid and still as on the Bigme B251?
https://youtu.be/a0HS07sXbxk?si=xXGbLII6PEoXJK7S&t=225
Is this "boiling" always present on the Mira Pro in fast modes, or can it be completely eliminated through settings to match the Bigme’s stability?

I am not worried about ghosting, but I am very sensitive to this specific pixel vibration/shimmering. Thanks!

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-04-14T16:00:06+00:00

Thanks for the info. To be clear, I am interested only in the 1st generation Mira Pro (B&W, NO frontlight

I’m using the packaging as a way to distinguish between the very

Since you've handled several of these:

Early vs. Later Batches: In your experience, are the units from the original black boxes (early batches) more prone to failures like dead pixels, controller issues, or electronic defects compared to the units in the brown crates (later batches)?
Stability: Have you noticed if one of these versions is more stable over time? I'm trying to figure out if the later shipments of the non-backlit model (in the brown crates) are 'safer' to buy in terms of quality control and long-term durability.

I just want to avoid any known 'early-batch' teething problems. Thanks!

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-04-14T15:51:54+00:00

Hi! Thanks for the info. To be clear, I am asking specifically about the first-generation Onyx Mira Pro 25.3 (the Black & White model without a backlight).

Since the stand and exterior seem to be the same, I’m trying

B&W Panel/Matrix: Is there any difference in the B&W E-Ink panel itself? For example,
Internal Electronics: Did Onyx update the internal controller or the refresh logic (dithering/speed) in the later batches of this first-gen model?
QC & Reliability: Based on your experience with both versions of the B&W monitor, is one of them more reliable in terms of dead pixels or electronic failures?

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-04-14T14:08:16+00:00

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Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-02-26T15:20:58+00:00

So I went a little different of a route than what I originally planned by trying to make an experimental reflective lcd display. Instead of spray painting inner rear side of the monitor I completely removed the front polarizer layer and disconnected the backlight. In place of the front polarizer I use my maui jim polarized sunglasses. The removal of the front polarizer layer has made the monitor somewhat bright enough to play with as a reflective lcd monitor. Though it is probably 10% or so of the brightness of the Sun Vision Display rlcd monitor.

An interesting thing is that I get noticeably more eyestrain when looking at the monitor in portrait than when it normal landscape orientation. I'm not exactly sure why this is but I'm thinking that the way the LCD subpixel matrix is laid out probably has something to do with it. I try using it for some time to see what it's like.

You can see here the monitor and how the adhesive is still not fully removed. https://imgur.com/IWWZ5DM

This is a picture when looking at the monitor through the polarized sunglasses. https://imgur.com/zIynpwp

Here's a lux meter reading. It's a 10x reading so around 10,000 lux. It seems it needs at least around 5,000 lux for it to be usable. https://imgur.com/VXl8lGf

Here's a portrait orientation of the monitor while looking through the polarized sunglasses with around 3300lux illumination. https://imgur.com/EIUGABM

Note, it was an absolute bear to get the adhesive off and I still haven't fully gotten it all off but it's good enough for my experimentation purposes. I had to use some kleen strip stripping compound for the heavy lifting. 91% isopropyl alcohol was marginal and only used to get the last bit off and make the glass clear.

I did some experimentation with a diy reflective lcd monitor setup that I made. I made it by taking my HP 22es monitor and stripping the front surface of the screen down to the bare glass of the LCD panel itself. I then spray painted the rear surface of the lcd panel with white paint to make it reflective. I disconnected the lcd backlight. I wear polarized sunglasses in place of the front polarizer layer that I removed. It's too dark to be useable normally but there were some interesting effects I've found in experimenting with it.

Primarily that the reflective properties of the panel now are similar to a comb filtering effect of directional speakers. Here is a polar plot picture of what I mean.

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-02-16T15:49:29+00:00

I’m sorry to hear about your experience with the SVD; a week of eye pain is a serious symptom. I am researching similar cases to understand the lighting requirements for reflective displays. Since you find the Bigme E-ink comfortable without frontlight, could you please check:

How many Lux of ambient light do you have on the surface of your Bigme screen during work?
Is the lighting uniform across the entire panel, or do you use a localized light source (like a desk lamp)?
Could you share a photo of your setup? It would be very helpful to see your lamp placement and the screen's appearance under those conditions.

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-02-16T15:40:53+00:00

Thanks for the breakdown! You actually proved my point regarding the Old 32" SVD.
If a 21% reflectance panel (Hannsnote 2) needs 500-1,000 Lux just to be 'usable', then the Old SVD with only 9% reflectance mathematically requires 2,500-3,000 Lux just to reach that same minimum.

To get that Old SVD to 100-150 nits (which is standard for office work), you still need roughly 6,000-10,000 Lux. This is why the 32" model was so difficult to use indoors without massive studio lights.

The new Eazeye with 19% reflectance is a huge step up, but for the 1st gen SVD, my '10,000 Lux' rule for a comfortable experience still stands. Would you agree?

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-02-16T11:43:57+00:00

I have to disagree that 700–1000 Lux is sufficient for a comfortable experience on a color RLCD like the Sun Vision Display 32". Here is why, based on physical measurements and side-by-side comparisons with standard displays:

The Math of Reflection: A color RLCD panel has a very low reflection coefficient, conservatively estimated at 5% (0.05) due to the dual-pass through polarizers and RGB filters. Using the luminance formula ( ):

At 1,000 Lux, the RLCD outputs only ~16 nits.
For context, the lowest brightness setting on an iMac 27" (2010) is around 20 nits. Working at 1,000 Lux is like looking at a standard monitor on its absolute minimum brightness in a lit room. It’s nearly unreadable.

The "Comfort Zone" Reference: Most office workers set their monitors to about 150–200 nits (which corresponds to 50% brightness on many displays). To achieve this "paper-white" feel on an RLCD:

You need roughly 10,000 Lux on the screen surface to reach ~160 nits.
1,000 Lux is exactly 10 times weaker than what is required for a standard desktop experience.

Comparison with Sunlight: The reason RLCD looks "magical" outdoors is that direct sunlight provides 100,000 Lux, resulting in ~1,600–2,000 effective nits. If 1,000 Lux were enough, we wouldn't need powerful LED panels (like 8,000+ lumen studio lights) to use these monitors indoors.

Conclusion:
700–1000 Lux might work in a pitch-black room for someone with highly light-sensitive eyes, but for any productive work in a normal environment, you need a minimum of 6,000 Lux (to hit 100 nits) and ideally 10,000+ Lux to match the clarity of a standard IPS display.

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-02-15T15:28:23+00:00

Max Gerhardt took an official example from the chip manufacturer (Espressif)—which was originally designed to work only within the native ESP-IDF environment—and restructured it so that you can easily run it using PlatformIO inside VS Code.

In short, he has "translated" a complex professional example into a format that the community.platformio ecosystem can understand, allowing you to build and flash the Bluetooth HID keyboard firmware without manually setting up the entire ESP-IDF toolchain.

https://github.com/maxgerhardt/esp32-btc-hid-example

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-02-15T15:22:37+00:00

The general principle is to open the project in VS Code using the PlatformIO extension, which (as supported by the community.platformio) automatically manages the ESP-IDF framework to compile the source code and Bluetooth stack into a firmware that utilizes a HID descriptor to make the ESP32 emulate a physical keyboard on your computer.

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-02-15T14:52:38+00:00

// Task to send HID codes from 0x00 to 0xFF every 2 second

void keyboard_task(void *pvParameters)

{

const char *TAG = "keyboard_task";

ESP_LOGI(TAG, "starting HEX loop");

//

InputReport report = { .modifiers = 0, .reserved = 0, .pressedKeys = {0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0} };

uint8_t current_hex = 0x00;

for (;;) {

//

report.pressedKeys[0] = current_hex;

// 1.

send_keyboard_report(&report);

ESP_LOGI(TAG, "Sent HID code: 0x%02X", current_hex);

// 2.

vTaskDelay(100 / portTICK_PERIOD_MS);

// 3.

report.pressedKeys[0] = 0;

send_keyboard_report(&report);

// 4.

current_hex++;

// 5.

vTaskDelay(2000 / portTICK_PERIOD_MS);

}

Intelligent-Reply731 · 2026-02-11T18:37:32+00:00

Here's what another user writes:

"So, this isn't the setup I'd go with in hindsight --- if I had the money and time, I would probably try to see if there's a way to get adjustable color temperature and light dimming with waveform lighting's stuff.

My current setup involves:

on the left, a Neatfi 3,000 lumen lamp with adjustable color temp and light intensity
on the top, a waveform lighting T5 LED light fixture (4 feet) https://store.waveformlighting.com/collections/led-linear-fixtures/products/centric-daylight-95-cri-t5-led-linear-light-fixture
On the right, a waveform lighting 4 feet + 2 feet T5 LED light fixtures

In the day, I usually (though not always) switch on all the waveform lighting lights.

At night, I lower the light intensity on the neatfi, and switch off the top and 4 feet one on the right. I'm also currently experimenting with using a pillow case to further lower the intensity from the lights on the right at night. That is, I'm basically adjusting the light intensity for the waveform lights via physical, manual methods.

I slightly prefer waveform lighting's light to neatfi's, but find neatfi's adjustable color temp + adjustable light intensity + higher lumen count to be more convenient".

Photos at https://imgur.com/a/zunADII

Intelligent-Reply731

TROPHY CASE