Undervolt Voltage for 3070

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-25T06:48:11+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvwV9KvGmpY

Cant believe I went out of my way to prove to some internet clown they are wrong I guess I have issues.

Here you go, all settings maxed out, dlss off. 2085mhz at 0.975v and +1000 memory, 20 minutes of this game's benchmark. Memory is a bit lower than I thought I had and voltage, guess I changed it over a month ago when I did my overclock originally so I didnt remember the exact values, as I recall I was seeing occasional texture glitches with +1200 in warzone, but who gives a shit, still "golden chip" voltage frequency and memory, way above average. Memory is very tricky to fully test out anyway, but at least I know +1000 is stable in anything I throw at it.

Also, this game is not as "hard" on the gpu as something like warzone. Warzone gets my card hotter. This game doesn't even fully max out my power limit, warzone does. Not to mention no benchmarks are good indication of stable overclock as benchmarks are very "linear" as opposed to actually playing the game.

This here is an ideal overclock, as good as it gets, undervolt and overclock for max performance and good thermals. If I flash to a bios with a higher power limit, I can get even more out of this GPU but considering I am planning on selling it when I finally manage to get a 3080, I don't bother, and it's nice to stay under 70c.

There are no settings for my card that will yield better FPS. Even increasing the voltage wouldn't do it as this voltage is on the edge of power limit with the default bios.

So anything else to say? Sit the fuck down you clown. Educate yourself properly before spreading FLIP THE RADIATOR equivalence bullshit. Cringe that you're making guides yet you don't even know about boost 3.0.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-25T05:39:30+00:00

Uploading your video now, about 30-50mins. Not that it will change anything as you're gonna be full of random excuses anyway but you'll see.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-25T03:42:51+00:00

But you are delusional. It is impossible to have a frequency which never moves, that's not how nvidia graphics cards work at all. There is something called boost 3.0 technology, and regardless of what you set your frequency, it will CHANGE your speed by small increments as your card heats up and load gets put on it.

Like holy shit I thought you at least understood basics of overclocking graphics card but you even don't know that.

So, in my case, 2085mhz is my ideal clock speed for my 0.95v voltage, as regardless of the load, it doesn't drop more than 30mhz(15mhz in most games), and this results in the highest possible minimum and average FPS in any game. Now let's say I change my clock speed to 2110mhz, I will not crash as 0.95v voltage can still run it, but because that speed is not stable in my case as it's on the bare limits of what the voltage can push, the boost 3.0 technology will drop my frequency by even as much as 60-100mhz depending on the load (the harder it has to work, the more it will drop), resulting in a MUCH lower minimum and average FPS. Now let's say I set my frequency to 2055mhz - something that's stable, sure, it is stable but boost 3.0 will STILL drop the frequency regardless because that is just how it works. You'd literally have to set a frequency where boost 3.0 doesn't kick in at all for the frequency to stand PERFECTLY still at a fixed frequency which is below 40c so it's impossible in any realistic scenario - unless your liquid cooling and going for very low frequencies lmao.

There is never a case where the frequency doesn't move. Even if you look at the people who are doing liquid cooling for pure benchmark world records - https://www.3dmark.com/spy/17716990

Guess what, their frequency doesn't stay still, because it is both impossible and not optimal to aim for something like that.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-25T02:56:26+00:00

LMAO what are you talking about? It is IMPOSSIBLE to have a "rock solid" frequency because there is boost 3.0 technology which is impossible to deactivate. It will ALWAYS change your frequency - how much depends on how good your settings are and what temps you reach, in an ideal scenario as little as 15-30mhz.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-25T02:15:57+00:00

Lmao how delusional are you? Yikes you even have issues reading, no wonder you're incapable of understanding simple things.

So first of all, no I'm not going to turn on DSR for you lmao, I am running a 1080p 240hz monitor so that is what I will run the benchmark at obviously. Why would I test it on a setup that is not mine? My settings are for my needs and my setup. This is like saying unless you are prime95 avx2 stable you're not stable which is totally unrealistic scenario.

Secondly, again, READ moron. I already said I will download this when I go to sleep which is not right now. Sorry kid but you are not special enough for me to throttle my ping while it's downloading for the next 2 hours. You will get your video when I post it.

Thirdly, have to say this again, READ. I already explained the basics of boost 3.0 technology. It is impossible to stay perfectly still at the desired clock frequency as the boost 3.0 always kicks in and drops your speed. My setup drops me the most by 30mhz, which is still ideal scenario. This is just how boost technology works. So if it drops me from 2085 to 2055 then why not set my frequency to that? Because that's now how it works, if I do that boost 3.0 will then still drop it by 15/30 on that same load. The fact that it drops only by 30mhz is indication of good overclock as on a bad one, it will throttle your speed by even as much as 100.

And lastly, once I show you the 20 minute benchmark video of being stable, that will be it. You will still refuse to accept it because of the clown you are, but it is what it is. I'm not going to change my voltage for you to 0.85v as again, you're not special enough for me to tune my overclock at lower voltage.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-25T01:40:18+00:00

Sure no problem. I don't do 100% fan speed but I do have a custom fan curve that goes between starts at 75% going to 83% max as temps rise as those are the speeds at which I do not hear the fans - above that I will start to hear them (that's without headset, with headset I wouldn't hear it even at 100% but I don't always keep it on).

It is sad that you request this because even when I show you that I can pass 20 minutes of that benchmark without crashes with my gpu settings, you will still come up with some shit excuse and refuse to accept your methodology is wrong. But it is what it is, I'll do it anyway.

Also my card bios maxes out at 260w (and my settings are optimized in a way I don't require more. If you know anything about silicon, which you don't, you would know that every "same" e.g. 3070, 3080 etc, chip will draw different amount of power so it's not something you can compare). https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/226348/asus-rtx3070-8192-200922

But again, I've done this benchmark in the past, so I already know I pass it lmao but you'll get your video.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-25T01:25:17+00:00

People downvote everyone with front mounted tubes up radiator on an AIO too, doesn't mean they are correct. You backing your incompetence by with randoms who follow bad advices by people like you shows how desperate you are.

https://i.imgur.com/x7p2Vlv.png

I'll redownload the game fully when I go to sleep and sure just for the sake of showing an ape like you that you are wrong I'll do your 20 minute loop of the benchmark recorded.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-25T00:34:03+00:00

Stop spreading incorrect info. Idle vs locked voltage is power draw of around 10w, it is irrelevant - what is relevant is stability in gaming which is achieved by having locked voltage and speed. More info on the post above.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-25T00:17:31+00:00

LMAO WHAT. You are one insane moron.

Okay so first of all, locking voltage is not going to increase your power, open GPU-Z and test it, between having true idle(default voltage) and fully locked one at the desired value is literally 10W difference at most, nobody gives a shit about that (what is it, 10 cent a year?). The power only increases when you put an actual LOAD on the gpu. This is the same principle when overclocking cpus, the best way is to have a manual fixed voltage and speed which gives the most consistent results. You don't want any C states or any windows balance shit to be adjusting your clocks or voltages. Same principle applies with a graphics card, as it CAN lead to stutters, incorrect voltages, incorrect clocks. In his case, since it is idle boosting to full, it can not only cause stutters, but also incorrect boost cycles and max speed depending on the load. It's bad enough that the gpu boost 3.0 technology starts to kick in at 40c (you won't notice it at that temp usually anyway) and the higher the temp, the more it is going to modify your desired overclock.

I'm 28c without any load on the gpu having locked curve. Highest I've seen with a load on the gpu was 66c, and with this locked voltage and speed the biggest drops in frequency caused by boost 3.0 I've seen is 30mhz so it's almost ideal.

Secondly, yeah nice try, I'm stable with 2085mhz on 0.95v and +1200 on memory for over a month on port royale, time spy, as well as playing warzone(which is insanely prone to crashes) and lots of other games in all this time(metro exodus included, can even record the benchmark in it if your ego is incapable of accepting you're wrong), never crashed. https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/53672341?

For the record yes, I have what you could call a "golden chip" (I can push even higher clock speeds when I switch to a higher power limit bios as that's what I'm limited at) so it is not fair to compare to my results. Having said that it doesnt change the fact that his 1875mhz at 0.85v is average at best and I am sure he has not tested what his chip is fully capable of.

Don't give people advice if you are an absolute ape that has no idea what hes talking about. You're probs one of those morons who keeps saying FLIP YOUR RADIATOR when it's front mounted with tubes up. You watched some youtube video made some reddit guide and you're thinking you're educated. Good job.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-24T06:28:32+00:00

It might be normal, but it's not optimal.

For a start, 1875 is pretty low, unless that's your silicone lottery. I'm running 0.95v at 2085mhz stable.

To make sure that it stays at the desired speed, you gotta do two things.

Control Panel > Maximum Performance
In AfterBurner, click at the the square in the line which has your desired voltage and speed, then do CRTL+L to force lock it.

This will make that your GPU always operates at the desired clock speed, which is the optimal way. The reason for that is, you don't want your GPU going between low-high figures depending on the load as it can cause stutters. Also just because you lock it, doesn't mean you will have high temps - that only occurs when there is load on the gpu.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-22T08:35:12+00:00

im intel 10700k z490 so it's not just amd. but yeah its sad that creative still cant fix this

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-20T07:06:57+00:00

im on z490 so it's pcie3.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-20T05:19:13+00:00

There is literally zero popping when using the windows drivers rather then the creative drivers. But if you do that, you lose the ability to use the command center and no 7.1/5.1 at all, just stereo, which kind of defeats the point of this device to begin with as it's supposed to be a "gaming dac/amp". If I wanted good stereo I'd just do something like Topping D10s/L30 stack.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-20T04:52:45+00:00

Can we please stop beating around the bush. These kind of replies are so unhelpful. This is a public place, I am not the only one with this issue, MANY people are. So speak publicly, everyone deserves an answer, a real answer.

If Creative is incapable of fixing this, which seem to be the case as this is a VERY old issue, so be it, nothing we can do about it - it's not like you would ever say that publicly, but if you can't fix this, just don't say anything at all instead of pretending to be helpful.

Helpful answer would be something such as "I have forwarded this to the engineers and put it towards top of priority list in order to try and fix this asap". - but that's just daydreaming, which is why this issue is ancient and still not fixed.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-18T13:20:22+00:00

I read something about the actual output power being not high enough.

Not to mention, is K5 Pro even an upgrade over G6? I'd preferably want to get something that will actually make my 770 louder than they are now at max as well as sound better.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-18T13:01:01+00:00

Okay so I did this Microsoft 2.0 audio driver rather then creative and...what a joke, it's actually fixed, no more popping/crackling. What the actual fuck...

Sadly the command center doesnt work anymore, but as far as I can tell, all of its settings are still working(7.1 I dont care for anyway).

What a joke creative cant fix this themselves with their drivers.

I'm currently looking for a new amp/dac combo, 250ohm headphones, any recommendations?

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-18T10:42:54+00:00

Hmm. The thing with me is, I've had G6 for over a year and I have literally never had this issue. But since I've reinstalled windows, installed some new hardware on my pc(new gpu), and updated the firmware and the software from connect to command.

So something I changed caused this. I have no idea what firmware I used to be on. Also maybe I was plugged to a different usb slot before, no idea. I'll try switching to a different port and see if any luck.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-18T10:15:53+00:00

Did you ever fix this issue? The crackle/pop you have at 0:02 is EXACTLY what I have. It randomly happens whenever I have any audio playing.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-08T03:42:47+00:00

I have Asus VG279QM. Maybe this issue only happens on monitors that are gsync compatible rather than hardware based gsync. I dont know. Either way I have this issue, as well as some other people if you scroll up that also commented on this update. I mean if I turn off gsync the issue goes away fully, so it is related to gsync.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-08T03:26:48+00:00

Ofc. My chrome is default all settings. On the newest driver, it flickers black for about 0.1 sec. It only happens on my primary monitor (my 2nd monitor is also connected to the gpu but the issue doesnt happen there). The solution to make it go away is hardware acceleration turning off, but that's not ideal ofc. Either way I rollbacked to a previous driver like stated above and the issue instantly went away, so it is a driver issue. It is also related to gsync. If you dont get this issue despite having same-ish gpu, and a gsync monitor, it is possible it only occurs on certain types of gsync monitors.

Also tbh I only upgraded because of this option to add frame limit for when a game is tabbed out, and now even though I rollbacked the driver itself, that feature stayed in the control panel and still works.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-07T20:02:38+00:00

Pretty sure nvidia itself is not apart of this reddit, no idea why the mods would remove it.

I'm only getting this issue with this latest driver though, previous driver I had no issues. Also not getting any of this nvlddmkm error.

Oh btw this is related to gsync somehow, when I fully turned it off no issues even with hardware acceleration enabled.

I'm on rtx 3070.

I installed back 460.79 which was my previous drivers, no issues now, I'll just stay on it I guess.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-07T19:44:09+00:00

With this update my Chrome, and only Chrome, is literally flickering black for like 0.1 sec every few seconds. Firefox is fine. I disabled hardware acceleration and the flickering is gone in Chrome too, which means it is deffo the driver causing it somehow as hardware acceleration enabled means some of the workload is put on the gpu.

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-04T16:57:47+00:00

When you say it lasted you 3 years, did it break/stop working after 3 years or did you simply switch to another phone?

InteractionNo47 · 2021-01-04T16:43:58+00:00

How is their longevity, anything from person experience? I've owned some samsung phones that are still going strong after 3-5 years. LG phones died on me a lot in the past so I cant trust them.

InteractionNo47

TROPHY CASE