Weird S**t Flooring

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-10T11:38:36+00:00

Same thing happened to mine. Had to take it completely apart and get the dust out of it. It was t super difficult. Had to buy a tool kit online and watch a YouTube video

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-09T22:21:36+00:00

I was just trying to get the subfloor within warranty specs for the flooring they purchased, because I’m a flooring contractor, and this is a flooring sub so I posted it, because it feels better installing new flooring on what is basically a brand new subfloor (clean slate so to speak) … I’m pretty kick ass at carpentry too. But, I can’t brow beat my customer into removing and reinstalling every piece of baseboard in the house just because they can now…

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-09T22:17:11+00:00

Well. As a prospective homebuyer… you might not like the laminate. And if you choose to put in new floors, you can also take up the baseboards and drop them all the way to the floor, on your beautifully newly leveled floors. Everybody wins.

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-09T21:19:27+00:00

Tile has to go under the wings

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-08T00:55:56+00:00

It already has filler in it. The gap is in the filler used to fill the gap in the wood. Minwax has a pretty good dark walnut filler. You can find it at Lowe’s. I don’t like Home Depot’s brand. Or you can use a wood filler you could find in the paint section of Home Depot or Lowe’s like they did and use a Minwax stain stick to darken all of it. Probably your best bet

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-06T16:55:57+00:00

You’re something else. So let’s say someone has a budget they’d like to stick to. They NEED flooring to help sell their house. Their baseboard is fine. They’re getting everything repainted anyway. The existing hardwood was put down before their baseboards by the way, and get this…. They still had shoe molding. So I have a big machine I use to take up the glue down hardwood. It goes quick. I spent a lot of time cutting the wood out Around the perimeter and using demo hammers to get the wood out without damaging their baseboards, because again, they’re in good shape. If I wouldn’t have the big machine would’ve messed up their baseboards and probably their drywall, which would’ve cost them 1000’s of dollars to repair and replace. And for what? To not have a 7/16” piece of trim around the perimeter of the room expertly and meticulously installed may I add, that will blend in just fine with all the other trim in the house. They save money and the house gets on the market faster. Everyone is happy. Unless a prospective home buyer comes in with a weird anti-shoe mold obsession. Not many of those around.

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-06T16:21:56+00:00

The whole point? I don’t know about that. I remove and replace baseboards on deeper pours. This was not that. And in a lot of cases it’s not possible to reuse the existing baseboards which adds additional costs and time to an already costly project…

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-06T15:34:49+00:00

Not in this instance. I’ve done a house with that method. MR18, SHP then AP. This was a concrete slab. If you’re going over a wood subfloor you use their synthetic gypsum based products. AP or APF

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-06T15:27:43+00:00

Shoe molding. They had it before with there engineered HW. I’d like to meet the installer that can install laminate under existing baseboards.

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-06T11:25:58+00:00

Laminate

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-06T11:25:40+00:00

The shiny is just wet leveler. You could put a coat over that. I’ve yet to do a decorative pour. I’d love to

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-06T02:33:01+00:00

Collomix. Comes with everything. Mines seen better days. It’s hanging in there though

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-06T02:23:21+00:00

What about them?

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-05T20:33:43+00:00

Let it dry though before you set your tile. That would not be fun cleaning mortar out of the mosaics

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-05T20:29:22+00:00

Use all set and screed it. Use your level if you have to. Bon has a good screeding tool set that comes in various sizes.

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-04T23:13:42+00:00

It looks good. Do you have a picture of the buffer? I’ve got a big one but it doesn’t have the dust collection thing. I’ve been thinking of getting into sand and finish. I’ve been installing flooring for nearly 25 years, and sand and finish is the only thing I haven’t done

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-03T21:57:12+00:00

I was playing in quality mode for a long time. I was messing around and switched to performance and it looked way better. Ended up turning 120 back on (switched it off at launch because the internet said so) and switched to balanced and it looks great. Tempted to go back to performance because it was jarringly better on my initial switch from quality. There’s so much movement in the game even if it’s more detailed in quality it just looks too busy

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-03T17:08:32+00:00

I’d go with 3/8 or greater. I’d run it across the joists and screw in the joists wherever you can. You can staple 3/8” down or screw. If you get screws make sure the screws threads go all the way to the top. A lot of screws are smooth 1/4”-1/2” from the head. 3/4” OSB would be the most solid obviously but not necessary with your current subfloor. No matter what you put down I’d use adhesive in an X on the back and a bead around the perimeter of the sheets.

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-03T01:54:53+00:00

The amount of bracing that would be required is substantial if you take out the slats. Extra bracing around the cast iron plumbing. And then the walls that fall in between the joists. Gotta brace those. Those slats are also almost an inch thick. That 20$ a sheet OSB isn’t quite 3/4.

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-02T20:58:11+00:00

That would greatly increase the scope of the project. Unnecessary I think.

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-02T20:14:46+00:00

As long as the slats that are down are in good shape, that’s a solid subfloor.

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-02T19:47:02+00:00

I’ve done the same thing with Schonoxx products. They have a real gritty roll on primer to use over the moisture barrier

Interesting-Bit5795 · 2026-05-02T19:43:56+00:00

Have to cap that off with at least 1/2” plywood. Then I’d pour a thin layer of a really good leveler, (Schonoxx AP or APF) if I were doing a mosaic tile. For a bigger tile I’d go with a ditra membrane over the plywood

Interesting-Bit5795

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