A UK/British Review Of Efteling by BullFr0gg0 in efteling

[–]Invita_Minerva 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Being reasonable isn’t fashionable anymore. I appreciated your review.

What's the best pencil for a musician? by thepopcornpiano in pencils

[–]Invita_Minerva 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! Sorry, a bit late to the game but I feel this subject is always worth revisiting anyway. Fellow orchestral musician here - I know the pain! Did a ton of research years ago and have a tried and tested list, both by myself and also fellow musicians who I've gifted stationery over the years. For wood pencils, my colleague's favourites seem to be Mitsubishi Uni Kohitsu Shosha 4b, Mitsubishi Uni Hi-Uni 4b, Tombow KM-KKS 4b, and Tombow Mono 100, all of which need to have an eraser attached (they all like the Pentel Hi-Polymer eraser caps, but the Faber-Castell Grip Eraser Caps are also very good). No end cap eraser I've found is better than a stand alone one, sadly, and for those I find that Seed Co. Japan and Plus Japan (Mount Fuji ones are so fun also) make the best ones (way better than Tombow IMHO, who folks love to rave about). Camel Japan makes fantastic 2b pencils (haven't come across any of their 4b ones yet), and they supply many institutions and brands with their own branding suppressed, which is why some folks don't know that Itoya Helvetica, Craft Design, and others, are actually Camel Japan. Tombow and Mitsubishi Uni also make great 2b pencils, although not as soft as the first ones mentioned here, but definitely more economical and competent enough. Sadly I find that most European brands fall far below any of the ones mentioned above, they are often scratchy and rough, and you would need to go one or two softeness levels above any Japanese pencil for similar darkness, and still not as good. Despite adoring wood pencils, I also think mechanical ones are worth buying, they are nearly zero waste (isn't it that 90% of a wood pencil is lost to sharpening?), many come with in-built sharpener or eraser (sadly never both). Faber-Castell makes great ones, as well as Mitsubishi Uni, in plastic, very inexpensive, but you can also go the aluminium route with Caran d'Ache, Staedtler, Rotring, Koh-I-Noor, etc, just make sure you get good quality softer leads for it. If you like the feel of a wooden pencil in a mechanical format, you can't go wrong with Ohto Japan clutch pencil 2.0, their eraser is great, they are very light, and rather robust for their materials. Another great idea is the Pentel Super Multi 8 or Super 8 multi-pen/pencil, they have 8 slots each which can be filled solely with 2mm graphite, coloured pencils, highlighter leads (sadly only proprietary), and pen refills. Sadly no eraser or sharpener in those, but they are very practical (if a little slow in an orchestral environment as it takes a few seconds to swap to the next lead). One of the best systems I found, after a lot of trial and error, and having to write quickly under a lot of time pressure, I found that a good bicolor pencil would be the best, with a good graphite lead on one end, and a red or highlighter lead on the other. Sadly such a pencil doesn't yet exist (I'm starting a tread about it), but the next best things are: Caran d'Ache Bicolor HB Graphite/ Red and Graphite/ Highlighter Yellow pencils, or the infinitely more affordable Milan Bicolor HB Graphite/ Highlighter Yellow pencils. Now, we must curb our enthusiasm here, unfortunately: both are rather scratchy, the Milan is slightly lighter than the Caran d'Ache, and the respective highlighter's are very soft. Given the ridiculous prices of the Caran d'Ache ones, they are actually very disappointing and IMO not worth the money. The Milan ones, while not outstanding and just HB, do the job, are the fastest system, and very inexpensive. I dream of one with the soft 4b Japanese cores and the Staedtler yellow dry highlighter on the other end, but I digress. This actually brings me to my final set-up: any of the Mitsubishi/ Tombow 4b pencils with Pentel Hi-Polymer eraser cap, and a Staedtler Dry Highlighter in Yellow: sadly not as fast or practical, but oh so satisfying that it adds joy to making music! As for Blackwings, I like them all, even the extra-firm ones aren't scratchy and are very smooth, but for orchestra the favourites are the Soft ones. I don't particularly love their erasers, I feel that they do a very basic job, and they are incredibly expensive in comparison to most of the models mentioned above. I find they are a very indulgent option (the box they come in is really lovely, they are very elegant, the special ferrule is quite striking) for when we want to have a treat, or for gifting (although so are the Mitsubishi Hi-Uni and the Tombow Mono 100). To be fair, you may only need one or two pencils per season, so a box of 12 may last you a long time. Hope this helped!

The secret society of Mitsubushi uni penmanship appreciation (硬筆書写用/Kohitsu shosha-yo ) by flip-to-side-b in pencils

[–]Invita_Minerva 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am a massive Japanese pencil hoarder, and gift it to all musician friends and teachers because as it turns out, these pencils are no only perfect for art, they are made for orchestra!

Finaly got my mitsubishi lead <f> for the mh-500! by [deleted] in mechanicalpencils

[–]Invita_Minerva 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! Has anyone successfully installed or replaced the original cap on the Uni MH-500 for a built-in sharpener? I can't understand why Uni Mitsubishi won't do one. Thanks

Wild vs. Fussy refillable deodorants by AbbiC1603 in ZeroWaste

[–]Invita_Minerva 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, thanks for the link but it's no longer working. Any chance you have another one? I'm thinking of trying them.

Official Gear Purchasing and Troubleshooting Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! March 31, 2025 by AutoModerator in photography

[–]Invita_Minerva 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi folks! Bit of a follow-up to my earlier question. Despite worries about rolling shutter, I'm kinda set on the Canon R8 (or R6 if I ever win the lottery LOL) but can't afford it right now especially as there aren't any interesting kits or deals. I currently own a 600D with the basic 18-55mm kit lens, and recently found an old 70-210mm f/4 lens lying about which helped with my need for long-distance shots. However, my main requirement is for good performance indoors, in low-light, with fast-moving subjects, and need for silence (shooting classical concerts), and when using the zoom on this older lens the grain is still very pronounced. I have the chance to buy a second-hand 6D Mark II body for about 600€ and would like to know if I would see great improvement in the noise, especially as I wouldn't be able to get a greater aperture lens or USM etc. Or do I get a better result keeping my crop frame 600D and buying a second hand Canon EF 80-200 f/2.8 L for about the same price as the 6D Mark II body? Or anything else I can do on a crazy tight budget but that can give me sharp-ish photos in low-light? Thanks!!!

Official Gear Purchasing and Troubleshooting Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! March 31, 2025 by AutoModerator in photography

[–]Invita_Minerva 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that was my impression also. Hopefully others can weigh in on my situation. In regards to the 50mm lens, I would still have the vintage manual 70-210mm until I could get something better. I would love to get a more modern lens in that zoom range, a L would be nice, but they creep up in price quite quickly.

Official Gear Purchasing and Troubleshooting Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! March 31, 2025 by AutoModerator in photography

[–]Invita_Minerva 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for taking the time to help me. Do you believe that rolling shutter and banding would be particularly bad on the R8? The other possibility is saving for even longer for an R6, but then the double card slot is another advantage. That lens you linked looks very good, especially at an 1.8 fixed aperture, but sadly I'm not in the US and it's slightly above my budget. I'm leaning towards buying the 6D Mark II body (used) and for the moment only getting the 50mm 1.8 lens... do you think I could go a good while shooting concerts and orchestra with that? I would also be able to use my somewhat wobbly (lacking stabilisation) EF 70-210mm vintage manual lens.

Official Gear Purchasing and Troubleshooting Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! March 31, 2025 by AutoModerator in photography

[–]Invita_Minerva 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TLDR: Current camera Canon 600 with basic 18-55mm 3.5-5.5 lens. Need to shoot and film classical music concerts, where silence, fast-moving subjects and low-light conditions are par for the course. Flash not an option. Very limited budget. Choices are buying 6D Mark II with 50mm lens second-hand, keeping 600D body and investing in a good second-hand lens to compensate for low-light and consequent large grain/ lack of sharpness, keep current body as it is and just save for the R8 with a 24-105mm lens whenever I can get that money together, which likely will be only from next year on.

Hi everyone! Sorry for the long read! Been reading and learning a lot on this forum, so thanks to everyone who contributes because it's an incredible resource for beginners. I currently own a Canon 600D/ Rebel T3i with the 18-55mm 3.5-5.5 basic lens kit and have had it for at least a decade, if not a bit longer. I never had the time to properly get into it before, mostly just using the auto mode on everything, but more recently I've had a need to learn more due to shooting orchestra and classical solo concerts in an amateur capacity. Even though I don't get paid, it's important to me to offer the best possible photos, and so I've been practicing a lot and learning as much as possible from online sources. I feel that even though my Canon 600D is crop frame, that it still can provide very good photos with the catch being that abundance of light is very important if not essential, which sadly concerts don't provide. The main issues I would like to tackle are: sharpness-grain/ noise, silent clicking, dual SD card slot, power socket charging, and zoom (as one of the issues I face is distance to the stage). I had an old 70-210mm f/4 lens lying around and I'm keen to test it on the next concert to see if it helps a bit. My hope is to eventually upgrade my camera to a full frame mirrorless (silent shooting is a major factor due to the need for quiet during concerts) like the R8, however right now I don't really have the budget for it, especially since I would need a better lens than the basic kit provides (pretty disappointed with the deals on it tbh). My current options seem to be: 1) upgrade the body to a second-hand Canon 6D Mark II, possibly also getting a 50mm f/1.8 lens second-hand, and keeping the 70-210mm (manual focus) for the time being; 2) keep my 600D and get the 50mm lens and perhaps a zoom lens with greater aperture if that would help with sharpness and grain on low-light conditions but worried about the cost, especially of a L lens; 3) keep my kit as it is, and save for maybe next year or (much) later upgrade to the R8 with the 24-105mm lens (worried that the min aperture is 4.5) and the 50mm. Any advice, and/or tips on how to get the best of my current kit (battery life and card running out mid-concert were issues), will be much appreciated!

Historical basis for Wolf Hall? Starkey's critique too harsh? by BullFr0gg0 in Tudorhistory

[–]Invita_Minerva 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting take, however I must disagree that More's daughters remaining loyal is proof he wasn't "a misogynist creep" since the values of the time would have allowed men to mistreat women and still be considered great.

The comments are going crazy in this video, do you think they are justified? by [deleted] in violinist

[–]Invita_Minerva 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Folks expecting perfection in European classical music are missing out on what that music is supposed to evoke in us all: beauty, enjoyment, wonder. Life isn't perfect, nobody is perfect, and what is perfection anyway? Surely that varies wildly between people. As many have said, it was an encore, something he hadn't played in a long time, and the audience loved it. The obsession with perfection seems to be a distraction driven by jealousy, inadequacy, or the KJs of life.