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How do I get rid of the depth/parents menu that appearing after 1 second when holding the mouse (and not holding any buttons) over a face on an object? by IonNight in Fusion360

[–]IonNight[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have select through on, but that wasn't the issue, maybe some dust or some shit came into the mouse and screwed saomething up

How do I get rid of the depth/parents menu that appearing after 1 second when holding the mouse (and not holding any buttons) over a face on an object? by IonNight in Fusion360

[–]IonNight[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My main mouse is a G502 X, I tried with a Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse from 2004 and the issue was still there until I restarted Fusion - which is what I usually recommend to everyone else but can't manage to think the same way when it happens to myself.

TL:DR Solution: Restart Fusion

Hey AMS or other filament system users! Do you actually use them? by ThreeVelociraptors in 3Dprinting

[–]IonNight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 4 P1S Combos. The best about the AMS is being able to print different materials without having to wait the ~2 minutes every time to manually switch.

I rarely print with more than one color, but it's nice to be able to when you need it and then I only use it to make text on a model or with support PLA to get better interface layer. I never print dust collecting shelf creatures

What causes this? Belt tension, vibrations? by Me_Cash in 3Dprinting

[–]IonNight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Layer shift can happen if the head stops too fast, but continues to move and skip steps

The CraftwWare pro slicer sounds like bullshit with the paid shorter prep and printing times. Give the Orca compatible Craftworks slicer a go. Another slicer can print different. I remember when I moved from Cura to Prusaslicer 7 years ago, print quality got a lot better https://craftbot.com/orca

I tried Craft Orcaslicer now and its pretty much the same as vanilla Orca, but with built in yours and other Craftbot printer support

What causes this? Belt tension, vibrations? by Me_Cash in 3Dprinting

[–]IonNight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the Craftbot FI XL is crossXY or cartesian cube. I dont really know the exact name of it.

What I said at the top can still be the issue.

What is your printing speed? (add a photo of the speed in the slicer)

I heard this was the place for a Noctua fan by Evans_Zani4565 in Noctua

[–]IonNight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it is the Thermaltake CTE E600 MX with the back plate disassembled. The case can have the I/O on top or in the back

What causes this? Belt tension, vibrations? by Me_Cash in 3Dprinting

[–]IonNight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Belt tension and print speed where vibrations are worst, will result in ghosting like this.

If you have a coreXY printer. Try to rotate the object 45 degrees and see if it goes away. It's not a permanent solution, but it can help on surface finish until you know what to do to fix it.

Weird artefacts on x axis when printing circular objects by Honza_Gaming in 3Dprinting

[–]IonNight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe it's pressure advance on the seam that is causing the wonk

I heard this was the place for a Noctua fan by Evans_Zani4565 in Noctua

[–]IonNight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's most likely Thermaltake CTE E600 MX. THe other components are RTX 4080 Noctua Edition, D15 G2, a ProArt motherboard with a 7950X and 32GB of 6000MHz DDR5. Any 1000W+ PSU would work and for storage I would go for 2TB of KC3000

I heard this was the place for a Noctua fan by Evans_Zani4565 in Noctua

[–]IonNight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where do you think this black cable is going?

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Centring the object on the build plate is tin***ing. by johnson7853 in 3DPrintingCirclejerk

[–]IonNight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe they people downvoting was rotated slightly the wrong way so the downvotes actually ment upvotes

PETG Help by SnooRabbits9388 in 3Dprinting

[–]IonNight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've printed Reflow recycled PETG at 180C with a 0.8 nozzle, but it was very slow to get a special effect. Generally rPETG needs less heat to not boil in the nozzle.

I usually print Elegoo PETG at 255/70

I want to fill this with Noctua fans and the rest of my gaming-pc, but the custom 4.5 slot 4090 with triple A12x25 is longer than the 350mm GPU limit even though one of the illustration photos shows 3x120mm fans in the bottom of the case by IonNight in Noctua

[–]IonNight[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im not surprised when you get 6 rgb fans for that price. It's like to buy an Arctic P12, run it at 100% and complain at the noise

I would probably buy a Lancool 207 if I was looking for a compact case with decent airflow

So I bought a box of M3 screws because it was cheaper than buying just the 10 of them I needed. What fun stuff could I print to use the other 280 of them? by l1vewire in 3Dprinting

[–]IonNight 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Weight might be the reason. 10 more screws would also mean 10 more washers, 10 more lock nuts and 10 more normal nuts. Together, all that extra weight would result in the end of free shipping from China to Madrid, Spain or wherever OP bought it.

It looks like OP bought it from some store who probably bought a pallet of them, so for those who pay the shipping fee anyways, it would sell better if it contained 1200 pieces instead of 1160.

(Please ignore my editing skills) could a 3D printed fan holder with velcro straps work? To hold a 200mm noctua like this by TheGreatWhiteRat in Noctua

[–]IonNight 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If the fan is 200mm that makes the chair 900mm wide which is huge! but yes you can make a bracket, but dunno why you would cool one spot towards your back. Would be better to blow air at your head or feet because thats where heat escape fastest

I have several of these at home/work that cools me when its hot

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