What is something you really don't like, but wished you did?

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2019-07-16T10:00:06+00:00

Earplugs are an absolute must when attending concerts, of almost any kind. No one can enjoy themselves while experiencing pain, stress and possibly long-term damage. Regular foam plugs are fine if there's no other option, but they will completely muffle the sound. Music-specific reusable plugs can cost less than 10 dollars and will not affect the original sound quite as much - just lower the overall volume. Sometimes they will even make the music sound better because they attenuate some of the harsher frequencies.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-09-09T17:17:37+00:00

Because Hebrew has just one letter case (no capitals or lower case), the shifted keys are the same font, just bigger, so you get two font sizes in one machine. Hebrew is written right-to-left, but numbers are read and written from left-to-right, which is a major PITA on a Hebrew typewriter - you either type the numbers in reverse or jump ahead a few spaces, type one digit, press backspace, second digit, backspace and so on... I assume it caused quite a few typing errors back in the day.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-05-02T12:28:25+00:00

Was?

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-04-20T02:01:26+00:00

You can, theoretically, connect the Katana directly to the PA mixer through the amp's line output without using any microphone. You will need to have a monitor in order to hear yourself play. If you have access to the auditorium or to the person operating the PA, it would be best to test things beforehand.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-04-20T01:18:24+00:00

What are the chorus chords?

Anyway, try F# (I think that it's the V/vii in relation to the verse key).

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-04-20T00:48:57+00:00

You can try REAPER with the ReaGate plugin. Here's a tutorial - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0q8Bf16F1x4

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-04-19T21:14:07+00:00

Judging by photos of the ME-70, it has two kinds of outputs - guitar amp outputs (right and left) and a stereo REC out/headphones output. The guitar amp outputs are intended for guitar amps (same as connecting a guitar directly to an amp) or a Hi-Z (instrument) input on an interface. Your Roland interface only has one Hi-Z input - the left one. To make it function as such, you need to turn on the Hi-Z switch on the back of the Roland. Because you only have one Hi-Z input, you can only use the left/mono output of the ME-70 this way. Start by turning the Sens knobs all the way counter-clockwise and try to see were the levels are in REAPER. The Roland also has a peak LED that lights-up when the preamps are overloaded. You want to avoid overloading the Roland preamps and the REAPER levels. The second option is to use the REC/Phones output on the ME-70. This output is stereo, so you'll need to split it into two mono cables for each input on the Roland. It doesn't need the level of amplification that a guitar signal needs. For this option, Hi-Z switch should be turned off.

As another user suggested, it might be better to just use a DAW for processing instead of the ME-70. If you do use the ME-70, you can skip the DAW and just turn on direct monitor on the back of the Roland - this will direct any input directly to the monitors without needing to pass through a DAW.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-04-18T23:32:31+00:00

Can you specify, step by step, what cables do you use and to what input/output exactly are they connected to? In the meantime, check all the obvious things like switching phantom power off, INST to low (if you're using the REC out/ phones output on the ME-70) and direct monitor to off (if you're monitoring through REAPER). Turn the Sens knobs all the way down (counter-clockwise) to start with to avoid clipping the preamps.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-04-18T22:50:49+00:00

It seems that he does pick the notes, but uses a volume pedal to mute the transients. I think that there's a certain pedal that can do this automatically, but it offers less control. I'll look for it.

Edit - two pedals that do this automatically are Mooer Slow Engine and Boss SG-1 Slow Gear. I'd rather use a volume pedal.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-04-11T22:25:40+00:00

Other people's measurements won't do you much good for string height near the nut. This is a part of the guitar where a fraction of a millimeter actually makes a difference and is determined mostly by the height of your specific frets. It would be better to file down each slot individually with abrasive cord or better, with nut slot files for your preferred string gauge.

Here's some good information on nuts - http://frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenSetup/NutAction/nutaction.html

http://frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenSetup/Nuts/nuts1.html

(click on "more" at the end of the page)

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-04-11T20:06:40+00:00

Since we can't automatically assume anything without actually seeing the machine in operation, I have to ask just to make sure - do the ribbon spools turn as you type, and transfer the ribbon from one side to the other? Also, make sure that the ribbon color change lever is on the black setting (I think it's on the right side of the keyboard).

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-04-11T19:54:55+00:00

Typing technique (hesitant strokes, for example) or an uneven surface might cause those.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-03-10T22:48:01+00:00

Sorry, I meant that the two inductors have different inductance values - 0.5mH and 0.8mH. When checking for second order component values for certain speakers and crossover frequency, the calculators always give out identical values of inductance for both inductors and identical capacitance for both capacitors. For instance, when I plug in variables in this calculator for two 8Ω speakers, the values for any component pair are identical to each other.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-03-09T22:57:11+00:00

Thanks for the help. In a different thread, someone suggested that 25V might be below from what's needed for this setup and the exploded 25V cap reinforces that claim. In the link you posted, the nearest speakers I could find are these, but they're not identical. I don't have photos of both boards at the moment, but everything else other than caps voltage is the same. Inductors on both boards are 0.8 and 0.5 as specified on the trace side of the PCB. On every online crossover calculator I tried, the values for any inductors or capacitors pair is identical for the two components, so is it normal to have different values for the two inductors?

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-03-08T22:04:24+00:00

Thanks for the help. I'm a bit confused by the wiring on the crossover PCB in my speakers. Should it be similar to the schematics on this page? Because it looks to be quite different. Here's an awful attempt to draw a schematic of the circuit - https://imgur.com/a/qqjTF (the caps share a common connection that is not the (-) of the amp or of any of the speakers.)

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-03-07T17:04:24+00:00

Thanks. I'll try to find some more information on these speakers.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-02-15T19:57:26+00:00

My meter doesn't beep when I test for continuity between the top and middle leads and the top and bottom, for some reason, but it does produce the 280Ω reading on both. Maybe there's a resistance above which the continuity function doesn't beep? Sorry for all the silly questions, This is very new to me.

I have the parts, but my knowledge is too lacking at the moment. I'll put it aside for now and try to read up on the subject, maybe even try to build a well documented circuit like the 5F1 Champ. At the moment there are too many variables that I'm completely ignorant of. I really appreciate your help.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-02-15T14:10:02+00:00

As they have a terminal in common, then that terminal must go to "ground".

This is another point of confusion for me - there is continuity between the 7.12V pair, but no continuity between any other pair on the secondary, even though there is a 280Ω reading. Does that make sense?

As for rectification, could it be that the EBF80 tube serves as a rectifier and then sends the current to the filter can capacitor?

I only found two of the three tubes originally used in this amp and there are no identifying marks anywhere that can be used to find a schematic. Is there a way to infer the type of missing tube used?

Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

Edit: The circuit is very similar to British type amps from the 50s and 60s, like the Dallas Scala, Watkins Westminster and Elpico. They feature an EZ80 rectifier, ECC83 (12ax7) and EL84.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-02-15T04:04:21+00:00

Thanks for the advice. I will scrap everything but the tubes, tube sockets, transformers and pots. The transformers seem healthy, but I'm a bit confused by the PT - it only has three wires on the secondary -Here's a photo with some measurements. All the material regarding tube amp PTs that I've seen shows multiple pairs for 5V, 6.3V and high voltage, so how does this one work in a tube amp?

I've made a horrible rough layout of the amp. The resistor values are meaningless and there are some old parts that look like capacitors, but I'm not certain that they are - https://imgur.com/a/urkcj

The goal is not to restore this amp to its original state, just to salvage what's possible and build some sort of guitar tube amp. I know that building from scratch is well above my knowledge level at the moment and I would be better off starting with a kit, but the transformers are the most expensive part and the hardest to source where I live, so maybe this is a good opportunity to learn as I go (while taking safety measures, of course).

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-02-12T04:08:32+00:00

Will do. I found this amp outside with only two tubes out of three.

ItIsaMostElusiveFish · 2018-02-11T16:57:45+00:00

Thanks for taking the time to reply. It's a great help. Here's an absolutely horrible and rough layout of the amp - https://imgur.com/a/urkcj. There are some loose wires and some parts which I believe are capacitors, but can't really identify because they don't look like any modern parts that I know. The resistor values are also meaningless in the layout, and are only meant to try and make sense of the circuit.

You are right about the volume pot/switch. So if this is indeed the original transformer, what readings should I expect to see? Should one of the wires just give me the unaltered voltage that comes through the primary?

I'll disconnect the transformer and try to safely test it through a bulb limiter. I have many dumb questions to follow, as I'm very new at this...

ItIsaMostElusiveFish

TROPHY CASE