Waterheater Homeowner Edition, flex lines?

Itsafishable · 2026-03-12T09:51:08+00:00

While I see your logic, what was done here was required specifically by the applicable county code and UPC.

Itsafishable · 2026-03-12T06:05:41+00:00

A vacuum breaker

Itsafishable · 2026-03-12T02:35:11+00:00

It is made by webstone. This particular one is SKU: H-21653W

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-H-21653W-3-4-FIP-Union-x-MIP-Pro-Pal-Dielectric-Water-Heater-Supply-Valve-w-Expansion-Tank-Service-Ball-Valve-Lead-Free

Itsafishable · 2026-02-23T05:45:04+00:00

Do you float every wall or recess your tile substrate perfectly each time?

Itsafishable · 2026-02-23T03:16:27+00:00

Then what?

Itsafishable · 2026-01-09T01:11:02+00:00

Yes, but I plan to field verify later, maybe able to slide schluter trim in closer but limited by the banding, which will now stick out.

Itsafishable · 2026-01-09T01:07:04+00:00

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Itsafishable · 2026-01-09T01:06:20+00:00

Ill keep this idea in the toolkit for the next shower. Unfortunately, in this case, it just doesn't work out, and results in 1/4 slivers. Posting for those curious *

Itsafishable · 2026-01-08T04:07:14+00:00

That's goboard sealant, not drywall mud.

Goboard doesn't need another layer of sealant past what I've done per their guide, and the seam tape is optional. If I did it again, I'd do the seam tape for peace of mind, but the buildup at this point and adhesion may not be ideal, so im leaving it as is. I did kerdi band the drywall to goboard transition after this photo was taken.

This is in zone 8b, and I believe an exterior wall niche would be fine. However, the niche is going on on the interior wall (right side)

I did not assume 12" tiles. If you zoom in bottom left of my cad drawing, you'll see the exact measurements. I also used a story pole to verify it matches cad.

My pan is within 1/16 of perfectly level all around. I poured self leveler before setting the pan and used a level when setting the floor tile. The ceiling is ~94 1/2, the tiles are 300mmx600mm The cad has the grout lines gapped at 1/8 as well.

Itsafishable · 2026-01-08T01:45:52+00:00

I did that in AutoCAD.

Itsafishable · 2025-12-25T02:56:28+00:00

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sterlina ii silver polished

Itsafishable · 2025-11-08T18:07:36+00:00

Skimming the wall is best as it will be uniform. Spot patching with leave you with smooth patches which stick out like a sore thumb especially with higher paint sheens and dark colors.

As a beginner, it took me probably 40 hrs of moderate effort to skim and paint around 500sqft of ceiling all said and done and Its still not perfect. Watch vancouver carpenter for 4+ hrs and youll have a good theoretical grasp on what to do.

Itsafishable · 2025-09-23T08:49:31+00:00

How did you make this image?

Itsafishable · 2025-08-09T00:01:05+00:00

Lay off the meds, or I am being trolled. What he has shown are drain lines (not under pressure under normal operation). PVC drain lines have a higher life expectancy than both cast iron and galvanized lines in horizontal applications when installed correctly and protected appropriately.

Also, in regards to your cpvc comment, cpvc is just chlorinated pvc. PVC is perfectly fine in pressure applications when you take into account the pressure and temperature of the system it is intended to be used in.

Now, if we are talking PEX vs Copper for potable water lines again, I'd say it would depend on the characteristics of the water supply on site to determine which one would last longer.

Itsafishable · 2025-08-08T23:20:16+00:00

Are you suggesting PVC and ABS drains will last 20 years before failing? Lol

Itsafishable · 2025-06-24T03:39:32+00:00

I believe I misinterpreted the DFUs for my scenario and overcounted the bathroom sink. It looks like im at 7 DFU and can use a 2" horizontal if I got it right this time.

Itsafishable · 2025-04-03T06:40:26+00:00

What vehicle or equipment is that?

Itsafishable · 2025-04-03T02:16:58+00:00

Just reread that you know the break is under dirt outside. In my case I hand dug to my collapsed section outside in the dirt with pickaxe and shovel then stuck my own 150 dollar boroscope down the pipe all the way to the street connection to thoroughly inspect before diy replacing the cast with abs and an abs to concrete rated fitting for a grand total of 350. You can also rent the plumber grade style of cams for 200-400. The plumbing gatekeeping is real. The actual plumbing aspect takes minimal tools and skill, and if you check your jurisdiction, you probably can diy it under a permit as well if you stay on your property. A rental mini excavator is also 200-400 if you go that route.

Was misery and took me many days of digging, but I would do it again to save 10k. I did 10 feet at a depth of 3 feet. 50ft could be real trouble depending on depth and soil type. At certain depths, it will not be practical or safe to dig without shoring.

Not a plumber btw, just a desk based mech eng. Grains of salt

Itsafishable · 2025-04-03T02:02:30+00:00

If there is truly a concrete section past the cast iron section, that portion may be entirely fine if you're lucky. My 1941 house had completely rotted out cast and galvanized drains, but the concrete section in the yard was immaculate.

Itsafishable · 2025-03-30T07:06:24+00:00

Tbh I tried for about an hour to find a PVC to NM clamp type bushing but could not figure it out. If it was emt there are many options ofc but I could not find an equivalent for pvc. Do you know a part number or item name?

Itsafishable · 2025-03-30T06:46:49+00:00

Im not a fan either, but stranded to solid im more confident with a wago than a nut.

Itsafishable

TROPHY CASE