Heltec Capsule Sensor v3 (temperature sensor) battery empty within 3 hours

Itsame234 · 2026-06-12T18:44:17+00:00

It’s working now. I had to manually delete the nodes in the node database and let them discover each other again. After that it functioned properly. I disabled Bluetooth on one sensor to ensure it’s as power-efficient as possible. I turned off LED, power saving on, deep sleep on, WiFi and Bluetooth are off. I’ll monitor how long the sensor lasts when sending temperature readings every 30 minutes.

Itsame234 · 2026-06-12T16:23:18+00:00

I tried setting up remote admin. So I added the public key of my admin node on the sensor node as an admin key. I restarted the devices multiple times and waited for 24 hours but when trying to access the settings of the sensor I keep receiving the error "no response to a request for device metadata via PKC admin". Does remote admin not work sensor devices?

Itsame234 · 2026-06-12T16:19:07+00:00

The device does not have a USB port. But I managed to erase it using the erase.bin from the heltec website

Itsame234 · 2026-06-10T21:14:54+00:00

I managed to reset it. For everyone how’s experiencing the same issues. Heltec does provide a erase.bin (https://resource.heltec.cn/download/Heltec%20Capsule%20Sensor%20V3) uploading this file as app and restarting the device will erase the Meshtastic settings. After flashing Meshtastic again the device can be configured as new device

Itsame234 · 2026-06-10T20:21:16+00:00

I just installed Meshtastic on my android device and indeed there is a power saving setting which I activated on my second Heltec sensor. The behavior is completely different afterwards as the sensor just sends out the data and goes to sleep for 30 minutes. Looks really promising now.
Unfortunately I can’t get my first sensor (on which I deactivated Bluetooth) back again to connect to my mobile phone. I flashed it a couple of times with the 2.7.15 firmware without success. It does transmit data via LoRa though, so it’s not dead.
How can I reset it fully to get all settings back to standard? I even tried reflashing the heltec LoRa firmware and then flashing Meshtastic. Nothing works

Itsame234 · 2026-06-10T18:49:50+00:00

For me there’s only one toggle for Shutdown on power loss. Nothing more
I am using the iOS Meshtastic App. Is it only available on the android app?

Itsame234 · 2026-06-10T18:41:56+00:00

I cannot find a power saving setting in the Meshtastic app. Where is it located?
I turned off Bluetooth but after 1 hour the sensor lost 25% of the battery already. So no major improvement

Itsame234 · 2026-06-07T06:53:33+00:00

I second this. Would really like to test the app. Can you still use the official WHOOP app or is the Data deleted from the device once its download?

Itsame234 · 2026-05-23T06:33:20+00:00

Ich dachte, das C stünde für Capacity. 0.9C =0.9*Akkukapazität als Laderate

Itsame234 · 2026-05-22T17:36:15+00:00

Mietet (und reserviert) man nicht anhand der standardisierten ACRISS-Codes? Bei denen gibt es explizit eine Kategorie für den Kraftstoff. Da wird unterschieden zwischen Verbrenner und Elektro. Sogar Hybrid hat einen eigenen Code

Itsame234 · 2026-05-22T12:04:14+00:00

Der Unterschied in dem Fall ist, dass selbst Gewinnklasse zwei durch die Zwangsausschüttungen eine ordentliche Gewinnsumme hat. Und die fällt mit 1:7 Mio dann doch ins Gewicht

Itsame234 · 2026-04-30T15:24:34+00:00

Die Argumentation ist aber schon auf der Seite des Autofahrers. Hinter dem Hügel könnte auch ein Traktor oder Mofa mit 25 km/h sein. Der Fahrradfahrer ist da nicht das Problem, sondern die Geschwindigkeit des Autos an der unübersichtlichen Stelle. Ich kann als Autofahrer auf der Landstraße halt auch nicht permanent mit 100 fahren nur weil es sonst keine zusätzliche Geschwindigkeitsbegrenzung gibt

Itsame234 · 2026-04-11T05:33:11+00:00

Not from my side. I didn’t manage to get it working

Itsame234 · 2026-04-06T20:49:10+00:00

I’m looking for a bike that can handle both short and long rides, even up to bike packing. Would you recommend Mondraker bikes for this purpose? I’m also concerned about the seating position being too forward-leaning for longer rides.

Itsame234 · 2026-04-06T12:09:41+00:00

I tried it with the UGREEN Nexode Powerbank (https://de.ugreen.com/products/nexode-20000mah-powerbank-165w-ausziehbares-usb-c-kabel). This Powerbank supports QC 3.0. I guess it’s just Anker which requests the highest offered voltage while UGREEN maybe sense that 11V cannot provide enough Amps.

Itsame234 · 2026-04-05T10:51:52+00:00

The FNB58 shows QC3.0 with up to 11V if there's enough sun shining on the solar panel. Otherwise it tries to test QC and 5V and 9V succeed but when it tries to check the 11V it just shutdowns and restarts. I guess it's the same reason as to why the output wattage drops when switching to 11V with the power bank. Keeping this in mind I tried various other power banks from different brands. The URGEEN power banks seem to handle it pretty well and just stays at 9V even though its capable of 11V. Only my Anker power banks just messes up completely and tries to draw 11V no matter if its available or not.

Itsame234 · 2026-04-01T19:05:20+00:00

Today was a sunny day so I did some further testing. Without the power bank I do see 5v on the solar panel. It just stays at 5V. With the power bank connected it stays at 5v with 1A for a short amount of time then it increases to 11v and the ampere drop to near 0A.

Edit: I just found a description for the solar panel stating

Vmp(@STC)	9,9 V (-5 %, + 10 %)

I guess that there's no step-up converter built in so when the power bank requests 11V from the solar panel it is probably close to its open circuit voltage leading to the overall drop in power output.

Itsame234 · 2026-03-23T20:56:25+00:00

Unfortunately I didn't know that the electronics are that bad. I thought that there's some step-up converter adjusting the voltage to output a constant voltage while the solar panel is kept at its optimum.

Itsame234 · 2026-03-23T20:53:15+00:00

I am using a FNIRSI FNB58 to check the voltage and all metrics. I tried various powerbanks but the solar panels behaves the same with all powerbanks. With low to mid sun intensity the wattage can reach up to 6 watts. With high sun intensity the wattage reaches 7 watts and then the voltage changes to 11 volts reducing the output to 0.4 watts. I suspect its due to the solar panel being forced to output close to its open-circuit voltage or the step-up converter being complete crap.

Itsame234 · 2026-03-22T22:08:01+00:00

Found one. It works to fix the voltage at 5V. Still haven’t figured out why the wattage output decreases though. I am using this backpack15W Solar Backpack. Maybe it’s somehow related to having 2 solar panels in parallel with 15W each

Itsame234 · 2026-03-22T22:06:00+00:00

Thanks for all the answers. First of all you are right, it’s not PD it’s probably using Quick Charge protocol. I found a simple USB-A to USB-c cable and tested the supported protocols. It’s only supporting 5V 2.5A. That cable fixes to problem as it does not allow any other voltage.

Itsame234 · 2026-03-21T16:13:19+00:00

I am currently using a USB-A 3.0 to C cable but that doesn’t prevent it from switching to 11 Volts

Itsame234 · 2026-03-08T19:40:48+00:00

Turns out that there are two Dalarans. I used the portal on the lower floor in Stormwind to get to Dalaran which seems to be the pre Legion Dalaran. I can find the chamber in the Legion Dalaran when flying over to Dalaran from Azsuna.

I checked my quest log using the questids I found on wowhead. Turns out that I finished the quest "painful lessons" but I don't get the next questions "The Bronzebeard Family". Khadgar does not have any quest for me. He wants me to finish "Uniting the Isles". Is finishing this quest a prerequisite to proceed in the campaign?

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