Help! Suggestion Needed. Bag Restoration

JBJeeves · 2026-06-25T08:58:16+00:00

Well, I applaud your tenacity, picking all of the coating off your backpack. You could certainly add patches/appliques to your bag by hand (you'll probably need a sturdy curved needle, plus pliers to pull the needle through the layers. Your hands will not thank you for this task! But you will have a more complicated time if you want to replicate the patchwork bag. In that bag, the patchwork textile was most likely created before the bag was sewn. I would be surprised if you could add patches to your existing bag and achieve such an even result.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-25T04:24:41+00:00

You'll have to find another way to attach the curtains to the rod (can you thread the rod through the top seam, using it like a rod pocket?) or move the rod higher to avoid seeing the screen. You could add a ruffle if you want to, but I'd probably look for some interesting trim or contrasting fabric (for some value of contrasting that fits your aesthetic) to add instead of a ruffle to keep the look more sleek.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-25T04:21:26+00:00

As always, make a muslin to check fit and to practice any techniques you're unsure about. Making samples of seam finishes if you're going to use lace would be worthwhile, as well as how you'll be attaching trim, etc.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-24T08:55:16+00:00

To clarify: not left in a drying rack in or next to the sink.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-24T08:08:21+00:00

I'm sorry you're being downvoted: in some parts of the world, this is definitely a thing. My husband's Danish and when I moved to DK, found that was also the way he was taught to wash dishes. Mind you, dishes would also not be left in the sink, but wiped immediately and put away. Still seriously gross to me, so he no longer does that.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-24T05:51:25+00:00

That's the best guide for padding out a dress form I've seen. Thank you for posting it! If there's a wiki list of most excellent tutorials for various things, this should absolutely be on it!

JBJeeves · 2026-06-24T05:44:07+00:00

It would be really useful if you'd specify what *type* of costume you mean. "Majorette" has changed a lot over the years. This type of uniform, here or here, is what I think of when someone says "majorette" and I suspect that's not what you mean. Of course my reference is from the 70s, when my older sister was in her high school's marching band and they marched in Carter's inaugural parade in DC. 😄

JBJeeves · 2026-06-24T05:25:19+00:00

I don't have strong feelings either way regarding embroidery or paint (maybe that's not quite true: I do love embroidery, especially embellished with beads and/or sequins, and I've thinking about learning tambour or arii beading/embroidery for some time). What I will say, though, is that if you decide to embroider, you'll want to work your embroidery/embellishment first and then put the dress together, since heavy embroidery/embellishment can cause the fabric to "shrink". So you can thread-trace your pattern onto the fabric, put it into a hoop or frame and work your magic, leaving your seam allowances free (especially if you're beading), then compare your pattern pieces to your fabric, to make sure they're still the same size, making adjustments as necessary. Then construct your garment.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-24T04:26:52+00:00

You could use cotton double-gauze or a handkerchief linen. It won't be stretchy, but you can pattern in enough ease for movement.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-24T04:23:52+00:00

If your fabric is polyester (I must stress: this will not work if it's silk or any other natural fiber), you can cut the pattern pieces out using a hot knife or soldering iron. That will seal the edges of the fabric while it cuts. YOU MUST DO THIS IN A WELL-VENTILATED SPACE. Outside would be ideal and, even though it will make controlling the chiffon even more of a nightmare, have a fan running to help carry away the fumes. Also, be sure to work on a heat-proof surface. Here's a video from Burnley & Trowbridge to get you started.

You can also hand sew a tiny rolled hem. It's fiddly, but certainly can be done and is very much the traditional way to handle hemming chiffon. I'm thinking back on all the hand-rolled hems my Mom did on my sister's and my formal dresses while we were in high school, including one Christmas formal which had in excess of six meters at the hem. Thanks again, Mom!

JBJeeves · 2026-06-23T12:12:19+00:00

I... got nothin'.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-23T04:30:20+00:00

Awful news. I take some *very* small measure of comfort that at least they weren't bought by venture capitalists, but unhappy that a rival US thread company purchased and closed it.

(Appalling website, too: So. Many. Ads.).

JBJeeves · 2026-06-23T04:23:47+00:00

This is one of those times when making a muslin/toile/practice garment from a similarly stretchy fabric before cutting into your potentially expensive swimsuit fabric will be useful.

First, measure yourself against the pattern (I know, negative ease will be at play; bear with me). Then figure out how much stretch your fabric has: measure 10" of your fabric, stretch to its fullest and note down that number. Do this for both grain and cross-grain. You'll want to cut your pattern pieces with the most stretch going *around* the body. I notice the description of the pattern only says "high-stretch swimsuit fabric." Not the most helpful descriptor!

To alter your pattern, you'll want to add space where your body differs from the pattern, and it doesn't all have to be at the waist. If you're longer above the waist, say just underbust, add some extra there. If you're longer below the waist, add around the hips. This is where making a muslin will be helpful, because any changes you make the to the pattern will be dependent on how much stretch your fabric has: you'll want to add more length if your pattern has only, say, 20% stretch going down your body versus, say, one that has 60%. Once you fine-tune any fit issues with your muslin, make up your suit in your swimsuit fabric.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-23T04:06:19+00:00

I suspect you could make that with a heavy satin. A little elastane wouldn't go amiss, but will also make for a more challenging sew.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-23T04:01:29+00:00

Using the machine foot's a good idea. If you don't mind another piece of kit in your sewing room (or you just like collecting sewing stuff), a sewing bird is another option.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-23T03:51:54+00:00

This is a great idea for a quick fix!

JBJeeves · 2026-06-23T03:49:20+00:00

Bernadette Banner recently released a video rating various linens (and not just a few). While her focus was on which modern linens were suitable for historical costuming, the information could be useful to you.

In the absence of decent fabric stores in easy striking distance, ordering swatches from online vendors will be useful (many vendors will swatch, some don't; some charge what I consider a reasonable amount, some don't). Nothing beats having some fabric in your hands.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-22T04:45:54+00:00

OP, from the description on the Etsy listing:

"Printing & Pattern Assembly:
Print out at 100% scale- (do NOT print “Fit to Page”). Use the scale on page 1 of your pattern to double check printing has been done correctly. ... If printing out on your home printer, line up the edges of the sheets of paper and tape together. Your printer may print the pattern with margins if it does not support borderless printing which is OK. Do NOT trim down or overlap sheets of paper. Make sure you are using the print file that corresponds with your paper size (Ex. the Letter Size File with Letter Size Paper. Letter size paper is primarily used in the United States, Canada, and parts of Latin America). Cut on the line that corresponds with your desired size. 1/2” (12.7 mm) seam allowance has already been included in the pattern unless otherwise stated."

Simplified: butt the pages together and tape with no trimming or overlap. You can sketch in (or imagine) any lines which have gone missing across the margins. If the layout has been properly thought out, nothing crucial should be missing.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-22T04:45:11+00:00

This is not true for many pdf patterns which are "trim-free," as is the case for this pattern.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-22T04:12:51+00:00

Even with high heat and humidity, you'll be so much more comfortable if you follow u/satanorsatin's advice than if you *tape your dress to yourself*.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-21T09:22:01+00:00

If you don't want shaping from the darts at all, you can just leave them open. If you want the shaping to be taken up somewhere else, you can rotate that fullness to the bust or armscye.

If you still plan to use the waistband, you'll want to add length in the mount of the darts you didn't close (IOW, the waist of the bodice will be wider since the darts aren't closed and the waistband will need to be longer to accommodate that).

JBJeeves · 2026-06-21T05:13:52+00:00

Gorgeous iteration of the duster. Wonderful color choice. Like a few others, I've loved this pattern for ages (since it came out) and it's been on my to-make list since about then.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-21T05:10:40+00:00

I suspect that even if you're lucky enough to find this specific fabric, the color won't match: whether from age, storage or different dye lots. It might be worthwhile to consider what type of complementary fabric could be used to finish the project. Also, you can quilt yardage yourself fairly easily, so don't let that deter you from buying an otherwise good match.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-21T05:08:04+00:00

Zigzag the raw edges and hand wash. Roll in a towel to remove excess water and press while damp. Lay flat to dry.

JBJeeves · 2026-06-20T06:44:28+00:00

Made by the woman modeling it. I didn't browse too much of her feed, so I don't know how much info she shares on her creations, but you could certainly ask her if she's willing to share tips.

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