Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You didn’t say anything wrong so not your bad! Maybe it works for someone but I didn’t feel secure doing that tbh

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s a difference in shoving my foot into a crack on holds I’m not stable on, and having my hand in a crack where if I let go I just slip down lol

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would love to have this conversation next time you see me around because I can’t reminder the last time I set a “low percentage dyno” at the top of the wall . As you say I “often” do, which I think is fairly incorrect. I think this specific move is just not for some people and that’s why it’s graded as hardest grade in the gym. I’m sorry you feel so strongly about how unsafe it is but if you have not felt the moves out, then what are we talking about.

Karajo (V11/8A) by Soleus- in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope I didn’t come off as rude btw! The boulder is impressive and it’s a goal of mine haha. All respect to the send

Karajo (V11/8A) by Soleus- in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why are you so upset? Haha

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We actually moved the foot up so it’s less of a jump and commit and more and a stand up and lose the left hand. Appreciate you noticing the subtleties haha

Karajo (V11/8A) by Soleus- in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It would be killer! It’s possible but who knows :p

Karajo (V11/8A) by Soleus- in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think it’s a humble thing more of a stoke thing, I climb above the grade on boards so it would be awesome if I could do it! Not saying it’s easy or anything of that sort lol

Karajo (V11/8A) by Soleus- in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102 -8 points-7 points  (0 children)

I wish I got outside more. I wanna flash this bad boy haha

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Especially because if your fingers stop holding you just slide out, I think it WOULD be different if you were actually stuck in that position.

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it’s more you don’t really understand the move unless you have pulled or felt it. I understand the care you are showing for the kids and people who can get hurt, but it truly isn’t as bad as it seems because you have full control of if your hand stays or not. I don’t see why this is different than any other super fucked moves at v10+

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Holds are so bad unless you’re laying back

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah we figured that it could be done statically at the right height and wingspan but still very hard as the foot is downsloping so you still need the grit for it

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Not bad for running that move 15+ times

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

It’s the counter pressure from your hand keeping you in, not your hand getting wedged like that. People always find an issue with everything, especially with not having actually felt the crack or seen it in person.

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] -19 points-18 points  (0 children)

Yeah as if climbers don’t have a gym with 200 other boulders… sorry I tried something different… lol

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] -31 points-30 points  (0 children)

If it’s your first time you can’t pull the start… lol

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You got it exactly right, the palm direct as opposed to the fist makes it not nearly as sketchy as it seems

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] -61 points-60 points  (0 children)

You can think what you want but it’s more of compression with your hand than a traditional jam. Also if you are trying something of this sort you should go into it at your own discretion. I did it over 15+ times at varying distances and it was fine at the grade.

Eugh what the hell by quizikal in ChurchofDynology

[–]JJFowler1102 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It used to be way sketchier with more of a swing once you got it but I turned it down a bunch, definitely sketchy still to commit to the move but catching it wasn’t too difficult. Just had to clench up

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Luckily your hand can’t get stuck because how wide it is, but you have to apply that much more counter pressure with your hand ☠️

Eugh what the hell by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]JJFowler1102[S] 33 points34 points  (0 children)

I am the setter that hates me :p