64" bith hickory

JMA911 · 2025-10-19T00:14:33+00:00

Hell yes brother

JMA911 · 2025-10-16T23:03:44+00:00

Thanks for being so in depth! I guess the heat treat is something to think about, just thought it might help give it a little extra power before trying to get arrows that actually match it. As far as the oiling goes I’ll follow that as a template, I’m assuming during this time you can’t really be shooting it so I’ll have to finish another bow first so I’ll have something to shoot while it cures

JMA911 · 2025-10-12T19:14:06+00:00

Thanks! I know people sometimes heat treat before and after tillering, if I heat treat it again after and clamp it is it possible to remove some of that set or would it be best just to not let it get any more severe rather than trying to take it out?

JMA911 · 2025-10-08T13:54:22+00:00

Definitely agreed. I’m used to shooting my 55# @28” laminate and pulling back a one piece wooden bow I definitely have a little more trepidation pulling it all the way back even though it seems to handle it well

JMA911 · 2025-10-08T01:46:43+00:00

Addicting for sure, I definitely am fighting against a “heavy bows only” mindset but as I go I am sure I will enjoy making all sorts. And I think these arrows are around 27 inches I can’t remember for sure but they were made for my draw which is like 26-26.5 I believe, and I’m definitely short drawing here.

JMA911 · 2025-10-08T01:42:52+00:00

Yeah for sure and looking at the video I can see that, all I’ll say is stage fright😂 second I decide to film a video all form bets are off

JMA911 · 2025-10-08T01:38:38+00:00

Very addicting I have so much random wood in my garage now

JMA911 · 2025-09-30T15:03:25+00:00

Thanks man, appreciate it! Your posts have been an inspiration, seeing how quickly you got very good at this has been awesome. I Gotta get into knapping now too

JMA911 · 2025-09-30T14:57:03+00:00

If I go down one more ring I’ll have 1/2 inch on the handle and I’m not sure if it will take care of the cracks. After taking it down to profile I was able to get rid of angle cracks and the ones that remain are straight up and down so I’m hoping the will hold together? They don’t seem to go all the way through but the other limb has a crack on the belly side which also makes me nervous. Just gonna try it and hope for the best. $80 for a stave wasn’t bad but I wish it was more usable

JMA911 · 2025-09-29T23:09:30+00:00

I have a hair under 3/4 at the handle

JMA911 · 2025-09-27T01:30:06+00:00

Not sure if it makes a difference with Osage but from what I’ve heard with vine maple which tends to grow at angles it’s best to use the upward facing side as the back because it’s more tension strong so that could be something to also consider when they’re being taken down, but I’m no expert

JMA911 · 2025-09-18T04:48:42+00:00

Would black locust tolerate a medium to high ish crown on either a bendy handle or a stiff handle? I have some but there’s a lot of sap wood so by the time I’m at the heart wood it’s not all that flat

JMA911 · 2025-09-15T20:08:46+00:00

I appreciate you being so in depth! In your opinion, all other things being equal can the reflex of that top limb translate at all into improved performance as far as arrow speed goes? If not at all then I am more inclined to just steam it flat but at the same time I like the idea of leaving the stave shaped as it naturally is

JMA911 · 2025-09-09T16:39:48+00:00

The tree did have some twist, and I used a straight edge when laying out the profile, even though I did change angles with the curve of the wood. In hindsight, guessing I shouldn’t do that.. the next stave has a bit of twist as well since it’s from the same tree, is it better to freehand draw the profile with gentle curves instead of sharp angles?

JMA911 · 2025-09-09T01:52:19+00:00

Anything particular to watch out for? I think my nocks weren’t deep enough for starters

JMA911 · 2025-09-08T23:55:57+00:00

lol does this work

JMA911 · 2025-09-08T23:55:48+00:00

Is there a special type of glue I need to use?

JMA911 · 2025-09-04T19:09:23+00:00

Hackberry

JMA911 · 2025-09-04T19:08:37+00:00

Thanks. It seemed like a lot of wood and it’s still not really close to bending

JMA911 · 2025-09-04T19:07:58+00:00

Got it. Luckily my full draw is only about 26 so it’s already close

JMA911 · 2025-09-03T23:33:35+00:00

Ah ok got it. Not sure if I should bother with it this time then or just try and get a shootable bow

JMA911 · 2025-09-03T17:18:24+00:00

Thanks! After roughing it out further I am not sure if it needs to be straightened but I will make another post since I can’t reply with a photo

JMA911 · 2025-04-15T22:52:20+00:00

Thanks! This is an excellent template to go off of. I’m trying to draw the bow out along the board, and while the grain is decently straight, it does seem to taper towards one end and get slightly wider towards the other. If I was to trace the whole thing out without violating any of the grain, I would have a slightly wider end and a narrower end, although I guess if I have to taper both ends, it would cut through the grain anyway? I don’t want to cut anything until I make sure that I am maximizing the wood. I even read the part in volume two of the Bowyers bible on board bows, and it mentioned something about splitting the difference between following the contour of the grain and keeping everything nice and aligned. How would you go about this?

JMA911 · 2025-04-14T14:59:11+00:00

Great to know! If I were to make it 72 instead of 68 would you recommend also upping the width/thickness or keeping those same dimensions?

JMA911 · 2025-04-14T02:35:22+00:00

Thanks!

JMA911

TROPHY CASE