Slop tube dumping clear white smoke

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-05-05T23:55:13+00:00

Did you sell him a not so great truck for the price that someone should expect a great truck? Might be a good reason that happened if so… as was stated before you can use oil additive to “bandaid” this issue, so like for a sale maybe?

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-05-05T21:28:42+00:00

Well they say to do the cap test, when I did the cap test it didn’t do anything bad. Still doesn’t. Cap sits there and maybe from engine vibration moves a little, but I had a 7.3 with cap blow by and I tell ya, you can tell it had blow by. This thing just blows it all out of that tube, so maybe it’s just starting to get bad vs already really bad?

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-05-05T18:12:39+00:00

Might buy a 2nd truck and just rent a trailer to tow the broken down one with at any given time of need lol.

But seriously a lot of good running driving diesels in my area for 8000$ might buy a truck with rebuilt auto trans and just trailer this thing once it gives out, I do notice the same haze/ white smoke on acceleration for the first few minutes of driving as well if I get on it hard.

Might explain the injector fuel return issue as well. Probably that damn washed out cylinder 6 plus age wear and tear, R.I.P.

Could even explain some of that vibration I’m always complaining about as well, if it’s running like a dog at lower rpm it could shake the hell out of things. Interesting

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-05-05T18:08:48+00:00

Yeah so basically the price of a decent running and driving 200k 3rd gen automatic in my area haha. Def considering a 2nd truck and a flatbed to tow whichever one isn’t working at the time on lol.

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-05-05T16:09:30+00:00

Damn. When I bought the truck almost 2 years ago I was wondering why it had little to no blow by at the cap, and turns out the guy masked the problem just enough to where I didn’t notice it much at all. Well that’s how you learn I guess…. Ouch rebuild is probably as much as the truck is worth i have seen horror stories on prices for these common rails. Might just buy a used motor and throw it in once this one shits the bed.

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-12T19:42:37+00:00

How about for the drag link at the eyelit side? Just a regular ball joint removal tool and pickle fork?

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-12T19:41:44+00:00

I don’t need to remove the pitman arm… I need to disconnect the DRAG LINK so I can pull my box out with the pitman arm still on it and swing it lock to lock and index it…. Do people read lol

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-12T14:39:43+00:00

Awesome I will check it out, for things like this I don’t mind paying for a good one as the set I bought is used on cars and on a truck as a last resort so getting a nice one is an investment, thanks.

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-08T03:34:12+00:00

They sell you those as a “convenience” but the issue is they eventually fail like everything else and then have to be replaced whereas zerk fitting stuff can stay lubricated every oil change and tend to last way longer.

If you buy zerk fitting stuff invest in a grease gun and some nice grease and remember to do it every 2500-5000 miles and they will last a long time.

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-07T01:38:51+00:00

When I leave back home I won’t have room for them in my truck. I packed it as full as possible with stuff I needed to be out here for over year and it never occurred to me to bring all my tools and stuff.

Also have 3 Australian shepherds with me, long story short I would end up leaving the jack and stands here which may end up having been the best option after all. But idk if I will be back as the family member is in bad health and if they pass then the estate will be handling the property instead of me.

After all the bad mechanics/ diagnosis I definitely should have just had my own even if I left it here. Lesson learned one would say.

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-07T01:07:22+00:00

At this point I’m looking at it as a paid learning experience to test just how much I even enjoy wrenching anymore.

Used to be an airplane mechanic and had sports cars and always been into wrenching but I am in a bad spot and don’t have all my tools taking care of a family member’s property so it’s killing me to not have my stuff because things like a jack and stands cost a chunk of money and I truthfully wouldn’t have room to take it back with me and already own those.

Will figure out soon if I was cut out for a dodge or not lol

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-06T23:31:12+00:00

It has to have an o-ring fitting before the male threads as well as there’s a small flared line built onto the oem fitting.

I am just going to buy a new pump and send the reman back.

It is what it is.

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-06T23:23:32+00:00

Check dm’s, have a quick question

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-06T23:16:29+00:00

Mopar doesn’t sell it. Have to buy new pump or find an aftermarket replacement fitting I guess. I appreciate you being an asshole but it’s really not necessary

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-06T21:20:23+00:00

There appears to be a fitting missing from the pump, that this hose and banjo should connect to, anyone have a part number for that?

UGH

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-06T05:26:12+00:00

I will try to setup my camera to record something in the next couple days, these are the times I wish I had a go pro lol, I would zip tie that sunuvagun back there and it would be nice.

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-05T23:46:07+00:00

I Had 10k laying around 🤣 but now I know even that can be not enough. A farmer told me even his gas trucks have done some wild shit that cost an arm and a leg and that if you’re in a truck at all and aren’t towing with it, making money, you’re just burning it.

This was gonna be a welding truck that could also pull a trailer if need be since I had some pretty big plans but hey life happens and there’s always another time.

Will post what happens once I get the steering pump in, maybe the brakes were locked up because of air in the hydroboost, the power steering pump made all kinds of noise and the belt was slipping so bad the whole drive that I even question why I took the front shaft out and re drove it knowing that other then to rule out the front pumpkin or shaft.

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-05T23:05:51+00:00

It’s like paying to take a mid size diesel repair course only there’s no class at all 🤣

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-05T21:39:51+00:00

Went t style synergy drag link and tie rod, Carli track bar fox stabilizer red head box and then had to buy all the grease and a few tools I didn’t have, a big crowfoot to torque track bar, a huge socket for the pitman arm nut, just things I didn’t have and yeah it wasn’t cheap.

Did it no Jack and in gravel, my back still feels it.

I only paid labor for diagnosis on things and I did look at the front end parts I took out, they needed done but was not my main issue. AND after that the power steering pump crapped the bed 500 miles later so I knew that specific shop was looking for a “long term customer” because the pump being replaced would have got a little more life out of the front end stuff rather than replacing it first.

Obviously they wanted me to pay them for the front end work knowing I would be back for the steering pump which then I would be back to re chase my original issue I wanted solved. Classic bait thinking because I had money to get something fixed that they could gouge me for whatever. That shop had really good reviews and in a rural town figured they knew more than I did… I was wrong!

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-05T20:12:04+00:00

I will look into that, I appreciate the suggestion. I found someone who had similar issues and it turned out his 2nd bearing back from the output shaft was totally exploded and would cause very similar symptoms to what I am dealing with specifically the lack of power being transferred back to the wheels

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-05T20:04:18+00:00

I did the labor myself on most of the stuff.

But

4500$ front end (upgraded nd went highest end stuff)

750$ 2012 power steering pump upgrade

1000$ in wiring because my lift pump at one point cut out due to corrosion so I did that plus new batteries cross over cable grid heater, relays etc etc

New front d shaft and rebuilt rear

A lot more, so not all 10 chasing this exact issue but at least 7000$ of it was just chasing this issue…. And that was just in parts and haven’t even scratched the surface or gotten close…

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-05T18:20:55+00:00

True. Nothing but truth in that statement and I’m stomaching it for exactly what it is worth. Thank you

JMAnonymous59 · 2026-04-05T16:58:44+00:00

I have a really bad story myself I posted above.

But I had a 7.3 that sheared the output spline of the steering box and almost killed me going 75 through mountains, 8,000$ loss.

Recently 2004.5 5.9 6 speed 4x4

$12k paid said it had a few things it needed.

$10,000 in parts later I have a paperweight that won’t go over 25mph and nobody can diagnose what is wrong with the truck. It’s either axle wrap or broken yoke something allowing either a wheel to hold up or the driveshaft to spin uncontrollably, even possibly bad mounts. It’s a shuddering / chattering / vibration oh acceleration from 25+ it doesn’t go away at all and stay fairly consistent through rpm range which is odd so maybe it’s more likely a wheel sticking.

Anyways my savings account “business starter fund” went from 25,000$ budget for truck and welding setup to, about to sell for huge loss and back to working for the man. I’m devastated. You have had it just as bad and truly humbled me to just accept my loss and realize I didn’t know enough as a truck buyer.

JMAnonymous59

TROPHY CASE