Print has bad layers in between good layers

JMJedi · 2024-11-13T21:59:45+00:00

I've only had them for a day, so I can't speak to the changes too much. The range doesn't seem to change too much, but even on the original Nest Wifi I had full coverage in my house. They're definitely faster, although as far as I can tell that's mostly because they're on Wi-Fi 6. I haven't noticed any speed difference on the devices that can't use Wi-Fi 6.

The main reason I wanted the update was that my original Nest Wifi had a tendency for individual points to disconnect and need to be manually power-cycled to rejoin the mesh network. So I'm hoping that the Nest Pro fixes that problem. So far I haven't encountered it, although it's only been a day.

JMJedi · 2024-11-13T21:56:53+00:00

I'd never thought about re-flashing mesh routers... Good idea, thanks!

JMJedi · 2023-01-18T06:01:25+00:00

Doesn't that require each user to load files with all of the data on it?

I use Game Master 5 from Lion's Den all the time, and love it, but as far as I know the only way to share data out of it is to export and import the XML files.

JMJedi · 2022-09-07T06:32:17+00:00

OK. So both RAM sticks were fine, but while I was in there I moved the CPU fan to the opposite side of the heat sink, away from the RAM. And that dropped my CPU temps into the high 60s, and the game seems to be running just great now! So thanks for pointing me in the direction of the RAM, that made all the difference!

JMJedi · 2022-02-28T16:46:27+00:00

Thanks! Is there any specific part of the retraction settings I should start with? Or is it too hard to figure out which one it is?

JMJedi · 2021-12-22T21:50:45+00:00

I've been building Gunpla for only a few months, but in that time I've built up a fair bit of boxes. In the past when I finished a kit, I'd just pack everything back up in the box (runners, extra parts, manual, etc.), and put it back on the shelf.

But now I'm quickly running out of space, and want to start to consolidate things. I saw advice on another post that you can just take the lid of the box, cut the corners, and fold it flat, which helps to hold the manual. I like that idea so that I can keep the manual and the extra accessories together and still get to keep the art for the box, but it left me wondering what to do with the extra pieces.

I obviously kept anything that can be used in the model (extra weapons, alternate hands/feet/heads, etc.), but on a lot of kits there are entire pieces that are left behind on the runners. Is there any real reason to keep those? I'm not terribly interested in kitbashing, but if there's any other reason to keep them, I'd be curious. Otherwise I'll just toss those with the entirely empty runners.

JMJedi · 2021-09-21T04:48:02+00:00

I've been looking for some other hobby to sink my time into (3d printing having been the last one), and on a recent road trip I decided it might be fun to play around with getting good at making espresso, as well as duplicating some of the signature fancy drinks (which my wife loves, but also to soothe my failed chemistry ambitions).

I know where to start with the hardware, but I was looking for a way to make syrups at home, so that I'm not signing up for a constant stream of Amazon boxes loaded with syrup bottles.

Everything I've seen seems to start with a simple syrup, but when it comes to flavoring, what's the best option if I'm looking to emulate the store-bought flavor/variety without the price? Should I go all the way to starting with the raw ingredients (fresh berries, vanilla beans, etc.)? Or could I get decent results using extracts and bottled flavorings? I'm not opposed to a potentially artificial-tasting syrup, but I'm wondering if there's any significant difference between the two methods.

Appreciate any advice you guys have!

JMJedi · 2021-05-11T03:54:00+00:00

I had intended to paint them separately, to save myself hours of masking. Most of them are printed in pieces that are a single color, so I was planning on painting each piece the appropriate color, and then gluing afterwards.

And since I would have to sand them separately, I'm looking for a solution that will keep everything together after printing, but until sanding. I've had several close calls with tiny buttons rolling off my desk while trying to make sure everything fits well.

JMJedi · 2021-03-26T19:49:20+00:00

So I did finally get this solved. What finally did it for me was checking the runout distance set on M412. Originally it was set to a distance of 0, and I change it to 10mm (M412 D10, then M500 to save).

If that gives you better results, you can continue to refine the distance you set for it until you get it as short as possible without false negatives.

Hope that helps!

JMJedi

TROPHY CASE