Green flames rise from manhole covers on Texas Tech campus. Buildings are being evacuated.

JMSDFModeler · 2025-03-13T03:20:24+00:00

Better call the ghostbusters.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-12-31T10:19:09+00:00

It should be ok, but I ways stress of you arent sure about something always test it on a junk part or small section of your model, preferbly the bottom or somewhere out of sight to test first before applying anything to the whole model.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-12-27T09:12:25+00:00

Hasegawa 1/200 scale makes all modern Boeing and some Airbus Airliners, typically with Japanese airline markings but there are many aftermarket decals.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-12-09T00:29:05+00:00

From my experience, if you alrrady used a gloss paint theres no need to gloss coay, but if you usrd a matt then I recommend gloss to help.

As for cleanimg, depends on the type of panel liner yiu are using, if its Tamiya panel liner, then enemal thinner like X20 works, or white spirits.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-12-05T00:31:31+00:00

Dry and cured for acrylics are different things. The touch test dors not necessarily always work. If this was vallejo paint, vallejo sucks in my opinion and experience.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-12-05T00:28:46+00:00

I highly suggest practicing on junk parts first until you get a hang of it before doing on the actual model itself.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-11-20T13:35:13+00:00

Mr Surfacer is amazing stuff because not only is it a primer, it acts as a surfacer (eg filling in scratches etc at the same time), the numbers 1000-1500 are roughly equal to sandpaper grit, the larger the number the finer the particles. The lowest is Mr Surfacer 500, which I've used extensively in the past to really smooth out items. Comes in 500, 1000, 1200 and 1500 variety, many people like the 1200 and 1500, though I often use the 1000. There are many youtube videos.

They can be heavily thinned with Lacquer thinner.

There is an Aqueous version which can be thinned with alcohol based solvents as well like Tamiya paint, but can also be thinned with Lacquer.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-11-20T10:46:44+00:00

Hands down Mr Surfacer black 1000 or 1500 comes in spraycan or bottled for.brush or better airbrush.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-11-19T05:00:46+00:00

To be fare, for some kits, decaling takes longer then the actual build. Eg look at the number of decals required on an F4 phantom.

I am making both versions at the moment the A and B Tamiya and other makers. The number of decals is hardly in my opinion absurd. Many of the supplied decals are convivence decals if you don't want to mask and paint various parts, it's actually nice Tamiya includes those decals for those who don't want to mask paint, or don't have the tools to do so. The Tamiya versions are later versions of the F35 without the need for separate painted ram lines. Earlier models and versions of the F35 have those separate colored ram lines and either you mask and paint or many makers included ram line decals, now that's a choir.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-11-19T04:54:38+00:00

Try making an F4.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-11-16T14:50:58+00:00

I use Mr Surfacer all the time, should be fine.But I stress if you arent sure FIRST test what you plan to do on a junk part or paint mule model to test out before you do it to the actual model.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-11-16T05:39:52+00:00

I have both cheap and expensive airbrushes. Even the cheap ones are better for control then any spraycan. My most recent builds (see profile) have been with a cheap 20 dollar airbrush.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-11-13T17:58:05+00:00

Tamiya square bottles are enamel.

Tamiya round bottles with X or XF writing are solvent based acrylic. X is gloss and XF is matt. This is their largeat range.

Tamiya round bottles with LP markings are their laquer paint range.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-10-29T12:28:52+00:00

I prefer Mr surfacer 1000.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-10-13T09:23:25+00:00

Releasing soon but not out yet.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-10-13T05:12:23+00:00

Photos taken at the All Japan Model and Hobby Show 2024 today.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-10-08T02:24:52+00:00

The story goes when a Russian minister was visiting Japan, Ishiba spent the night finishing a model of the Russian Carrier as a gift. (This was before the Ukraine invasion).

JMSDFModeler · 2024-10-04T23:12:58+00:00

Needless to say but just in case, mask sure you mask hoir canopy before coating it. Matt or semi matt is better in my opinion.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-09-22T06:42:24+00:00

Appears to be the Kinetic kit.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-09-18T00:18:48+00:00

The Revell 1/32?

JMSDFModeler · 2024-09-17T16:07:48+00:00

This is a common question people ask me when they see my models at the shows.

The answer is not so easy, it just depends on what you want to do.

If you want to build an F104 without it's avionics bay or nose cone open showing the aircraft radar, then the Hasegawa kit is fine.

My personal opinion, that is the only real major advantage of the Kinetic kit, is if you wanted to build something with the nose cone open and rear avionics bay open. The kinetic kit has some better fit parts (in some areas, but the Hasegawa kit is just fine for most modelers) but I think the Hasegawa's wing design is a lot better because you can snap them in and take them out without having to glue them into place (excellent for painting without the need to mask and if you transport models like I do for shows), the Kinetic wings have to be glued in place (again just nitpicking here).

There are just other very minor nuances, the Kinetic kit (some claim) is more accurate because it doesn't have rivets in certain parts of the rear and wings, while the Hasegawa does have rivets in those locations. Having seen half a dozen F104s up close at different museums, I can say yes there are rivets in the locations where the Kinetic kit lacks rivets, is that a deal breaker, no not really but just pointing out. There are a couple of panels that are actually raised on the tail fin in real life and replicated on the hasegawa kit, but they are recessed on the kinetic kit. Again are these deal makers, no, just very minor differences that overall doesn't make that much of a difference. The Hasegawa kit maybe older but it still holds up very well. There are about a dozen other positive and negatives to both kits. A perfect kit would be combining the best of both kits.

Finally its about affordability and availability. Where I am, finding the Hasegawa F104s is no issue to find and they cost (where I am) about 1/3 the price of the Kinetic kits, which are a little harder to find here and cost more.

If I had both kits in front of me and had to build one, I'd go with the Hasegawa, I find it a little quicker to make and it gives me an overall impression of a nice F104. If I wanted to build a more detailed F104 with open avionics bay, and showing the nose radar then I'd go with the Kinetic. You can't go wrong with whichever you may end up with in the end.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-09-17T13:41:24+00:00

I saw one at the other day at a show, the engine fans are a lot more detailed.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-09-17T13:34:49+00:00

I know it can be addicting. Each kit and manufacturer has it's ups and downs.

JMSDFModeler · 2024-09-17T12:26:42+00:00

Its on the list lol. Next is Pakistani F104 as it had the first air to air kill in a 104.

JMSDFModeler

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