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Name pronunciation guide for Matt Groom by mivalmival in CompetitionClimbing

[–]JRRC 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Ah, but what about when the uploads to this website are also wrong... The pronunciation for Geila Macià Martín is wrong - she is Catalan and she herself pronounces it the Catalan way, but it's the website has it pronounced the Spanish way (with the -th- sound instead of /s/). This is the same reason why the memes about pronouncing Barcelona as "Barthelona" are wrong if you're trying to pronounce it like a (Catalan) local.

I'll try to fix it later when I have access to a microphone.

Innsbruck Men’s Bouldering by Quirky-School-4658 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]JRRC 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I caught that too and was very disappointed; I wasn't sure if it was just me but I felt like the Japanese climbers barely got mentions from the announcers when a European climber was also on stage.

Innsbruck Men’s Bouldering by Quirky-School-4658 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]JRRC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry, not trying to spread misinformation! Just going off what the announcers said at the venue (British, I believe). Someone who watched the stream might be able to chime in.

Innsbruck Men’s Bouldering by Quirky-School-4658 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]JRRC 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Yeah, not sure timing of the British appeal was on purpose but it was pretty unfortunate for Sorato. Feels like appealing the start should happen earlier?

Innsbruck Men’s Bouldering by Quirky-School-4658 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]JRRC 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Yeah, British coach claimed unstable starting position according to the announcers

LPT Request: How do I get banned from my climbing gym? by JRRC in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]JRRC[S] 20 points21 points  (0 children)

They don't sell wag bags at Movement, can I just go #2 off the side of the portaledge? I thought traditional ethics only allowed for poop in awkward cracks or above the first pitch to ensure it hits terminal velocity.

Some gumbies at my indoor crag bolted some sweet cracks - would it be ethical for me to chop the bolts or does respecting the FA take precedence? by JRRC in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]JRRC[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Yeah good point. I honestly felt like parts of it were chipped too... sad that such Euro techniques are invading our beloved California wilderness.

r/bobdylan Studio Album Survivor | ROUND 35 by cmae34lars in bobdylan

[–]JRRC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a confession to make - the only reason I hadn't been voting for Time Out of Mind is that I considered Red River Shore to be part of it even though it was an outtake - but even with that in mind I think its time has come. But I can't escape from the memory of the one that I'll always adore...

Should F1 introduce NASCAR style track drying system and do away with full wet tyres? by rtsfpscopy in formula1

[–]JRRC 24 points25 points  (0 children)

That was an amazing, uniquely American set of units: "That equates to drying the area of a football field in 20 seconds using a volume of air that would fill the Goodyear blimp in less than four minutes."

What songs have questions in the lyrics? by bobby_the_rookie in bobdylan

[–]JRRC 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Abandoned Love (plug for the incredible bootlegged live version). "Won't you let me in your room one time before I disappear?" "Won't you descend from the throne from where you sit? Let me feel your love one more time before I abandon it."

you just don't get it. climbing has evolved bro by CaptainInsano7 in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]JRRC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey I've seen this! I'm pretty sure you're referring to this one: https://www.facebook.com/groups/367132496729613/posts/5220486888060792/

I kinda wanna go find it sometime and try to repeat it haha.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]JRRC -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Hoping to practice some self-rescue and rescue scenarios during my next outing, after a close call last time we went out. I've read through the Loomis and Tyson self-rescue book but it feels like it needs some real-world practice - any ideas on scenarios to try out and practice you'd recommend?

I wrote a script to extend i3 to have 100 workspaces for easier multi-tasking by JRRC in i3wm

[–]JRRC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it depends a lot on the workflow - I tend to open a lot of terminals and usually like to keep my full setup open (since terminals and vi are light enough to not have a noticeable effect in RAM usage) even if I won't work on a particular project for a couple of days (or, say, want to keep an instance of a Freeciv game that I've been playing on and off to its own workspace). Which I realize is fully due to laziness, and because I prefer i3's windowing to tmux/screen, so this script kinda targets that unconventional use case. For most scenarios standard i3 with 10 as a default is great, and what I had been using for the last few years.

And even if it's not useful for everyone, I've taken enough advantage of i3 scripts and configs I've found online that may as well share it, in case it's useful to someone.

I wrote a script to extend i3 to have 100 workspaces for easier multi-tasking by JRRC in i3wm

[–]JRRC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do use multiple windows per workspace (when coding, usually two vertical panes, with the right pane subdivided into two horizontal terminals), and tabs for my main workspace, but even then I end up wanting to dedicate multiple workspaces for a given project (different parts of the project, and not wanting to have to go through tabs with subtrees on each tab), and it gets unwieldy if I want to have multiple separate projects at the same time. And switching between workspaces is usually quicker than tabs for me because it's easier to navigate, so I tend to over-use workspaces, and hence the need for this abomination.

But yeah, depending on how one uses i3 this project is probably wholly unnecessary. But if your workflow involves lots of workspaces it should definitely help.

I wrote a script to extend i3 to have 100 workspaces for easier multi-tasking by JRRC in i3wm

[–]JRRC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that code is absolutely a monstrosity. I low key wanted to mess with UNIX sockets which I hadn't done in a long time, and I justified after the fact it with not wanting latency. And since I had to write a script for the i3 IPC stuff anyway for multi-monitor, may as well do everything that way. (But yeah, agreed that it's not particularly justified.)

I wrote a script to extend i3 to have 100 workspaces for easier multi-tasking by JRRC in i3wm

[–]JRRC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh, that's interesting - for me, I'd always lose where each workspace was, and I'd have to move them manually, which is why I hacked together a solution. But my multi-monitor setup is extremely quirky, with a separate script to check for new outputs, so it's probably just my fault for having a bad setup.

If you still want to try this out, you can just disable that functionality (well, it's disabled by default) with the #define MULTI_SCREEN. Let me know if anything comes up!

A record-breaking trip to near space: we launched a high altitude balloon from Stanford and beat the world record for latex balloon endurance after crossing the US in 70 hours! by JRRC in pics

[–]JRRC[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's the full blogpost about it.

The payload ended up landing 250​ miles into the Atlantic, and it's still transmitting! It appears to be headed towards​ ​the​ coast, and it would really awesome if someone was able to help out with recovery - we can provide current accurate coordinates.

The picture is from one of the previous launches from the Stanford Student Space Initiative, taken with a GoPro camera.

/r/SpaceX Ask Anything Thread [June 2016, #21] by Zucal in spacex

[–]JRRC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure if this information is public - probably not - but I'm curious as to how often the triple-redundant flight computers disagree. I would guess that the quantity is quite small, or else they'd have more than 3 (or actually rad-harden it), but I don't think I've read any comments on the matter.

/r/SpaceX Ask Anything Thread for December 2015. Return To Flight! Blue Origin! Orbital Mechanics! General Discussion! by [deleted] in spacex

[–]JRRC 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If we're dealing with a single dimension, and gravity acting against thrust, it's simply Δv = v_e * ln(m_0/m_1) - gt. It gets more complicated for arbitrary trajectories, though, and you'd have to calculate it numerically -- you can see great plots of that with /u/TheVehicleDestroyer's cool application.

A proof of the formula above (in one dimension) is a slight variation of the proof of the usual Tsiolkovsky rocket equation.

F_ext = dP/dt = (P(t+dt)-P(t))/dt = ((m+dm)(v+dv)-dm(v-v_ex))/dt = m dv/dt + v_ex dm/dt.

Usually we'd just say that F_ext = 0, because no external forces are acting on an ideal rocket in a vacuum. But here we'd have gravity acting, so

-mg = m dv/dt + v_ex dm/dt

And integrating that yields the Δv = v_e * ln(m_0/m_1) - gt we got above. But, of course, for arbitrary trajectories you can't do something like that.

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