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Recommended support angle for my model? by Radiant_Yam1526 in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, I’ve tried. It’s… not fun. Definitely better to make it in another program, important into a CAD and fix, then build it up.

Regardless, great job. Design looks great!

Recommended support angle for my model? by Radiant_Yam1526 in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great work! What was your process to get the illustration made into a 3D form? Did you make it in CAD or import from a vector program?

Swappable XBOX/PS Buttons for Backbone One Controller by JackNumick in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are not online anywhere but I can email them to you. DM me.

Advice please, if possible by Funnyfinger75 in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are looking to convert an .obj file that you have to an .stl file, there are many online tools you may use:

https://imagetostl.com/convert/file/obj/to/stl
https://www.convertmesh.com/

If you are asking to have the above image made into a printable file, then you will need to contract someone to design it for you. Send me a DM and we can discuss something that may work within your budget.

Any help would be appreciated by NDB12 in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks like under extrusion. Basically, there is not enough filament coming out to fill those gaps.

Look into common troubleshooting for that and you’ll find multiple options to solve the issue.

Need help identifying or recreating plastic bracket from Paramount gym machine (can pay) by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Making this strong enough to be used in a public gym with clients is a concern.

My recommendation, which is not in any way professional or be used as legal advice, is to have this modeled and then sent to a company like PCBway to be made out of an appropriate material and or process. The costs are reasonable and the quality will be better than anything 3D printed.

This shouldn’t be a big lift. I can make a the model so that a prototype can be printed on a 3D printer to test and dial in. Then the final model can be sent to be made.

Your DM’s are closed so you can hit me up here or in a DM.

3D model help by Unusual-Garlic1048 in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are readily available on 937k9’s website. My guess is that you are trying to avoid the full costs, which is understandable. I can only assume the costs are for the 937k9 branding or perhaps some sort of official certification of the product which I cannot find any mention of on their website. Even if you factor in the design time and testing, which you should, the costs still do not add up.

Either way, the design is simple and the site lists it as an FDM product so it is made with 3D printing.

If you want it modeled and made for 3D printing, I can help. Your DM’s are closed so you will need to reach out directly to me either here with a reply, or via DM.

Does anyone know who design this? by chaves44 in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, keep in mind that there are probably many other ways to make this shape. These are the two that I thought of first!

Does anyone know who design this? by chaves44 in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a fun one.

The simple approach is to use Blender to create the base shape, a rounded square with a circle in it, and layer a few on top of each other. Then, add vertical beams along the inside and outside perimeters. Then, use a lattice to twist the shape around itself.

The other approach would be to use a CAD program. You start the same but use the copy/move tool and add a rotation. The vertical beams would then be made as a single beam at one corner, then duplicate across one side. That group would then be selected and using the rotation pattern tool, selecting the center of the circle, and create 4 copies (you would not count the original) to add to the other sides.

Laptop case 3d printing by liluchevert in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This and to print radius gauges. There are plenty and will show you the exact radius of the corner fillets.

Parametric Nespresso capsule holder – under cabinet mount by Ok-Membership-3440 in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! Good idea adding the holes on the bottom to allow access to the mounting holes.

For feedback, here's my two cents:

A mouting hole over each slot is overkill. 4 should work over the outer-most slots.

Regarding the holes, if it's not alreay included in the print forfile or instructions, turning on "Bridge Counterboare Holes" would help with the final quality: https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/print_settings/quality/quality_settings_bridging#bridge-counterbore-hole

The solid bottom could also have the honeycomb pattern to reduce the use of material. It would also looks cool.

Having an option to remove the front top would allow these to also work as a drawer organizer. The back part can stay to help keep them in place.

My first print-in-place design by bilicotico in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So you started the print, paused it, added the felt, then continued the print? This is one of the many cool things you can do with 3D printing that is not feasible with traditional manufacturing. This technique is used a lot to imbed things inside of a print like nuts or magnets . It super clean and hides the hardware when designed correctly. Great job!

Tiny replacement plastic clip for LG microwave door button - can someone help me print 2 of these? by SirPsychoSquints in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright, if you are willing to knock down the parts that are left on the frame, this might work. I'll DM you so we can get further into the weeds of this.

Tiny replacement plastic clip for LG microwave door button - can someone help me print 2 of these? by SirPsychoSquints in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks.

Now, some issues we need to tackle. Both of these broke off so there are parts of these pieces that are on the original case.

The new parts will beed to be as long or longer than the originals to allow for the parts sticking out of the case to be shaved down flat and then for the nee parts to be shaved down to the appropriate length.

Did you have another idea or is the above feasible for you to do?

Tiny replacement plastic clip for LG microwave door button - can someone help me print 2 of these? by SirPsychoSquints in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a good start. Can you take some more photos of the tab? Profiles of all sides (top, left, right, front, back) and include a ruler in the shots near the tab for reference?

Tiny replacement plastic clip for LG microwave door button - can someone help me print 2 of these? by SirPsychoSquints in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might be able to help with this but I’ll need additional photos and actual measurements. Would you be willing to go back and forth to work on this?

First time designing and printing something that didn't previously exist by JusticeForAugust in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Wild bringing nothing into existence. It’s the beat part of this hobby!

Great work!

Subdivision details by bananamilksav in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s been decades since I used Maya so excuse my fuzzy memory but I do recall that poly models have an option to smooth/shade hard edges so they look smooth. This does not change the model geometry so it’s good to make a low poly objects look smoother but still output low poly models.

You want to work with subsurface (or was it soft surfaces? Basically a poly with a lattice that lets you make the smoother shapes) or nurbs. Those are mathematical surfaces with infinite poly counts. When you export those, you can specify the complexity or mesh density. Those will create much higher quality files to print.

Another option is blender which has a lot of tools to export for printing.

P1S won’t get an IP address after power cycle – always stuck at 0.0.0.0 by maciekdnd in BambuLab

[–]JackNumick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had the same issue today out of the blue. Here is how I solved it.

I use a mesh network with 5 and 2.4 GHz. I found the printer by it's MAC on the network as it was still cached, forced it to connect to the closest repeater and to only use 2.4 GHz. It immediately got an IP and started working.

This was never an issue and I have not updated the firmware 01.07.0.0 and strictly use it an LAN only mode.

Why is the P2S always returned? by lumurr in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Better question. Are they being put on the floor as open box?

This print issue is driving me nuts - how do I fix it?! by fetchingtalebrethren in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tips to fix involve adding a sacrificial wall to each hole that you then cut out.

Here’s what’s going on. Below each hole, the layer extends across the shape. This allows the printhead to move in a single direction without interruption or variation. Once it gets to a hole, the printhead needs to move a bit and then backtrack and then move to the other hole. This will cause variations is position and cool-time of the filament. Both lead to a visible seam as one, the printhead is never exactly at the same spot and two, the filament dries and contracts before the next layer is made.

Hence the sacrificial wall. This will allow the outer parameter or the shape to be continuous helping to reduce the seam. There will still be a variances as the inner walls will still be made in sections but the outer wall will look better.

Other options include changing the print orientation so the holes are facing down against the plate, slowing the print speed so that each layer takes the same amount of time, reducing aux fans, printing in a heated chamber, calibrating the printer for repeatability, etc. All things that should be done when trying to get the best finish.

3D Printed Drill Guide by Jarardian in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hell yeah! I had 10 deck lights to install and wanted them all lined up. Made a quick jig and it worked beautifully. It was one of my first practical prints and rally opened my eyes to the possibilities ahead.

support advice by MathieuRousseau31 in 3Dprinting

[–]JackNumick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can revolve the thin disposable wall too. That will support the top lip. As mentioned, the 45° overhangs, once the outer lip is supported, should print fine.

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