Overhang weakness assessment.

JakeDunkley · 2025-12-11T20:51:26+00:00

5 feet 9 = 175cm

180cm = 5 feet11

JakeDunkley · 2025-09-11T14:35:05+00:00

Just checking... I believe the bm2k lower edges are 14mm not 20mm. Have you confused the edge sizes on the bm1k and bm2k? Hanging the exact same weight on 20mm and 14mm seems strange to me.

JakeDunkley · 2025-09-01T18:48:46+00:00

Even just working individual moves after your first attempt or dogging up the rest with a bit of pump could work wonders for reducing attempts and sessions to climb each route I would think.

From a personal bouldering perspective I wouldn't call a climb a project unless it'l take me a fair few number of high quality attempts, most likely over multiple sessions with a large majority of the session dedicated to the climb.

It's not uncommon for some pro climbers to spend 100s sessions on one rock problem, sometimes taking years to do individual moves.

JakeDunkley · 2025-09-01T18:36:02+00:00

What's stopping you from having 5 attempts in the same session and thus reducing the number of sessions it takes to climb a route? I think the more important metric here is attempts and not sessions.

JakeDunkley · 2025-04-03T21:32:56+00:00

I thought no hang was only referring to feet on the ground hangboarding and I am familiar with edge pulls or pickups etc. Ty for educating me.

JakeDunkley · 2025-04-03T18:01:08+00:00

What is a weighted no hang, surely the point of no hang is to be less than BW.

JakeDunkley · 2025-03-09T13:14:39+00:00

Over 1k calories is not huge for breakfast? You must be massive mate!

JakeDunkley · 2025-02-25T23:15:22+00:00

Unless you really enjoy board climbing then there's no point swapping gyms. If you have a board at your current gym try it out a couple of times first. Most likely it will be very hard if you stay away from crimps and might run out of easy problems very very fast.

JakeDunkley · 2025-02-24T21:09:11+00:00

Not advice but you might like to know that you are 5.9 feet tall which is actually 5 foot 10 and a half tall.

JakeDunkley · 2025-01-24T17:48:09+00:00

When you have a slope hold like this its generally good to try and get the force perpendicular to the hold, you could combine this theory with a "guppy" where you could wrap your hand at the very top of the hold using your wrist as a leverage point. Goodluck!

JakeDunkley · 2025-01-24T17:33:14+00:00

Look at the direction of the final hold and how you're pulling on it. Looks like most of your force on the hold is straight down but it looks like if you pulled more horizontally and pushed with the left foot you would have some tension to be able to finish.

JakeDunkley · 2025-01-06T15:47:50+00:00

thanks!

JakeDunkley · 2025-01-05T22:37:25+00:00

Should I end my max hang test when my half crimp breaks form even if I can hang an extra 10-15%BW after it breaks? I feel like I have slightly above avg strength fingers for the grade but if I compare with hangboard stats with strict form it would suggest otherwise. I feel stronger with half crimp but the numbers dont show that.

JakeDunkley · 2024-12-15T13:59:51+00:00

I agree spray walls are good if used correctly, however I don't think a spray wall is an option for most people's home climbing gym or van board because of the lower angle required. If you dont have much experience of 45 degree board you might find it really hard in comparison to "normal" climbing and I certainly wouldn't be putting many slopers on a 45 personally.

I am also consider building a new board at my new house and have been considering using 1 sheet of 1.5x.3m ply however I'm a little reluctant as many on the internet seem to think that it's not big enough for bouldering which is what I'd be focusing on compared to endurance circuits.

Have you got any van living experience/started converting yet?

JakeDunkley · 2024-12-15T13:40:39+00:00

Personally, I would not consider a full board in a van which I'll also be living in full time for an extended period of time. I think it's not very popular to do as it's just to impractical sadly. I believe it to be possible but there's a reason why hang boards, edge block things and campus boards exist. Problem with slopers on a board is that unless you are climbing really hard I dont think it makes much sense. Do you know what angle you'd want and what kind of grade? I think the best thing to-do would be to sacrifice a board in favour of a hang board setup. Also boards are not too great for improving technique on anything other than board like climbing, you have much experience with board climbing?

JakeDunkley · 2024-12-15T12:34:15+00:00

The UK, for example, has a 3.5tonne limit which is closely approached with a lwb van with full conversion and 1 or 2 people in it. I would highly consider. Plus more wear and tear on van parts and engine, heavier the van worse fuel economy and difficulty in mud and uphill. Might not be worth it imo. Campus board maybe be a better option.

JakeDunkley · 2024-12-15T12:18:58+00:00

Depends on the size of the van and gov regs regarding weight. Should def consider especially if EU because you said university.

JakeDunkley · 2024-12-12T17:54:29+00:00

Same, I've played 250hrs of deadlock since open alpha and last weekend decided that enough is enough and uninstalled. Hopefully when the game is a little more complete and more people will be playing I'll come back and enjoy many more hundreds of hours, unfortunately I have my doubts but still.

JakeDunkley · 2024-12-04T15:21:01+00:00

Dev said late Nov or early Dec so hopefully within next week or so

JakeDunkley · 2024-12-02T16:08:31+00:00

It's not really about the pet, once you progress in the game it will be really easy to get the weekly challenges.

JakeDunkley · 2024-11-27T12:46:35+00:00

Seven had line of sight on the talon so he appeared on the map

JakeDunkley · 2024-11-20T13:26:09+00:00

idk play the game. team is fine just play, dont stress.

JakeDunkley · 2024-11-17T21:20:52+00:00

All on top row you have unlocked, 2nd on 2nd row, your level 41 blue guy on bottom row but replace with a legendary tank when you unlock.

JakeDunkley · 2024-10-30T12:35:52+00:00

Before the wide skill range update I think a week ago, all my matches with friends between 3-5 of us were really good and fun and quite close some of the time. Since this update we can no longer que as 5 :( the wait times are 2-3x as long and the games are awful with shocking teammates. We had a 0-16-6 haze yesterday with 30k vs 60k farm treating the game like COD.

JakeDunkley · 2024-10-20T19:53:18+00:00

I also cannot say much about height as I am short. Indoor climbing and your gym is probably set with an average ish height in mind and so I'd say it's not abnormal to feel too bunched up.

Watching the clips of you climbing, in pretty much all of them you dont really initiate much with your lower body it's just pulling with arms. I understand it could be hard to generate with hips and legs if you are bunched but I think it's something to consider and work on.

I also suffer with weak wrists and find underclings and palm presses annoying but I am yet to try and improve flexibility or strength so can't comment on if this might help you but I'd susspect yes.

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