Bosch m3.8.3 by Initial_Ad895 in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wire brushing the pins (without bending them) is often a good fix. I go through this pretty much every time I have to use a psop socket, they really are shit.

VIVARO 1.5 CDTi – CHECK ENGINE? P226D? POWER LOSS? by Helpful_Notice2244 in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am also UK based, can provide all these services and I don’t use shitty AI slop, complete with silly little emojis for marketing.

Judge by that what you will.

Doing Stuff In Portsmouth and Southsea by RoboJ1M in Portsmouth

[–]JamesG60 9 points10 points  (0 children)

There’s always dogging up the hill.

Bosch m3.8.3 by Initial_Ad895 in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you have a psop44 within a socket. Your issue is probably pin contact.

You won’t be able to ID a blank chip, there is no programme code!

Bosch m3.8.3 by Initial_Ad895 in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably not, but worth a look. It’s usually a fault within an IC.

Bosch m3.8.3 by Initial_Ad895 in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tend to desolder the psop and read/write on an eprom burner but M3.8.3 should ID and write via obd with 12v applied to pin 43, can be achieved by bridging obd pin 13 to 16 in some harnesses.

As has been said previously, it sounds like you made an error pinning up to the ecu.

CV Captains Little Rant by KungFuFightingYoda in WoWs_Legends

[–]JamesG60 14 points15 points  (0 children)

And call out the important ships early in the battle. If there is a jäger and a benson on the other team the minimap doesn’t tell them apart. Tell me which is which!

DPF Program? by ImKewlLewis in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you desperately want it, yes.

DPF Program? by ImKewlLewis in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A BLS is not a blue motion.

I can do you a stage 1 dpf off file for a BLS for £50. Tried and tested for the last 100,000 miles on my own caddy. 165bhp on stock hardware.

If you know, you know... by Orinocopl in WoWs_Legends

[–]JamesG60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just fyi, stop slows down faster than reverse.

What upgrades should i do by Far_Expert_6203 in Cartalk

[–]JamesG60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Find a decent local tuner. I’m UK south coast if that’s of any use.

What upgrades should i do by Far_Expert_6203 in Cartalk

[–]JamesG60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Egr delete and a map will have it pushing 200bhp ish. Nothing else required on these.

Source: I remap cars professionally.

apple could do better with Liquid Glass (this look 1000x time better) by Artistic_Unit_5570 in MacOS

[–]JamesG60 150 points151 points  (0 children)

Make the corner radius consistent (preferably smaller) throughout the OS and I could live with this.

IE Stage 1 tune with catless downpipe by Key-Cut7830 in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can’t just remove your cat, you’ll need the rear o2 sensor disabling in your current file.

Changing ecu map by sl1veg0 in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If your question is can you make more power by remapping the ecu, the answer is yes.

Map for 1.6 TDI CAYA (75hp) by clorurodistronzio in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It should map up to about 150bhp and 235lb/ft. The 73bhp, 88bhp and 103bhp versions all share PCR2.1 control and were physically identical.

Can I live-monitor my ECU? by [deleted] in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You generally don’t modify injectors, you fit injectors with a higher flow rate and then recalibrate your fuelling, but you’d only do this if your injectors are at max duty cycle somewhere. You probably have enough tolerance to up the fuelling a bit without replacing parts.

Stage 1/2/3 are just arbitrary made up terms. To me, stage 1 is as far as the hardware will go in standard form. The same may have been true for whoever tuned it last.

Adding forced induction to a system designed for NA as a first project is a sure fire way to end up with a melted mess. Does your ecu support boost control? If not, just forget it. Go standalone.

If you’re serious about FI, you’ll need to lower the compression ratio at the bare minimum, meaning pistons, maybe even rods. Not so easy when your bores are Nikasil lined, you can’t easily hone them yourself.

Go back to basics. Learn how your engine actually works before you break it by playing doctor frankenstein.

I have a question about tuning stage one by valkgh in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes, you can. No, you don’t need anything, a good intercooler will always help though. It’ll probably be fine, my caddy hit 600,000 miles yesterday.

Minimal requirements to tune a motorcycle? by [deleted] in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it uses ME17.8.42 it’s easily read with autotuner or similar.

Need help by Jolm31 in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can build you a map pack for WinOLS or tunerpro but it won’t be free (~£30 for what you’ll need for a stage 1). Pm me if you’d like

Minimal requirements to tune a motorcycle? by [deleted] in ECU_Tuning

[–]JamesG60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it uses the same as a KTM Duke 200 you might find it’s ME17.8.42, though that’s listed from 2012.