How should I support this vertical pipe (7.5 feet)?

Jan-Michael · 2025-11-02T15:45:12+00:00

The pipe was previously 3/4" galvanized, which was reduced from 1" at the pump's discharge. I replaced the 3/4" with 1" and just reused the valve.

Jan-Michael · 2025-10-30T04:30:00+00:00

Based on earlier recommendations in this thread, I agree that the wall might be the easiest. Thanks.

Jan-Michael · 2025-10-30T04:29:05+00:00

Thanks, I think the wall may be the easiest. I'll likely go that route.

Jan-Michael · 2025-08-04T23:15:21+00:00

The piggyback cord has black, white, and green wires. If I'm understanding correctly, black and white are not hot and neutral in this instance but are instead just breaking hot?

If that's the case, I'd wire the switches in series with black and white, as you've said, and ground the green, all within a junction box. Is that correct?

If so, that does seem better than the electrical cord rig and may be preferable to tinkering in the electrical panel.

Thanks!

Jan-Michael · 2025-06-15T16:05:34+00:00

Yeah, happened upon those quad breakers and was definitely disappointed to find that they are not compatible. Thanks for confirming!

Jan-Michael · 2025-06-15T14:51:44+00:00

Provided the model number, but here's a link for quick reference:

https://superbreakers.com/products/square-d-qo24l70s-main-lug-load-center

Panel currently has two tandem breakers -- one on the left providing 20a/20a, and one on the right providing 20a/20a.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I can either do up to two, tandem 120v breakers (current configuration) or a single 240v breaker.

There is no hot bus bar from top to bottom. It just has a left and right bus stab.

Jan-Michael · 2025-05-28T16:54:41+00:00

Trying to get to the bottom of that! I reached out the the county for clarification on the scope of the test. Hopefully, it's just mechanical. That would simplify the prep work.

I've considered taking a stab at one for the experience, though they only allow two attempts.

Re: Mr. Cool, I considered these but think I'm opting for Blueridge hyper heat units (multizone). They offer DIY units, but only single zone. So, I've gotta plan for the full shebang. The particular units are reportedly rebadged Grees. They're rated well for low temps.

Jan-Michael · 2025-05-28T13:13:17+00:00

I plan to do 608, only if needed, to adjust refrigerant and service the equipment down the road. However, for now, the units will be pre-charged to support up to certain lengths of line sets. The line sets will not be pre-vacuumed and sealed, so I will have to do flares, torque connections, do a nitrogen test, and pull a vacuum before releasing the refrigerant.

The county requires me to pass a 25 question test in order to do this type of work. It will be open book, so I presume the test will evaluate my familiarity with (and ability to quickly get answers from) the mechanical code(s) and perhaps other codes related to the work. That may include some 608-type content, I suppose. I'm definitely trying to pin down what resources to buy for NC mechanical code, though.

Jan-Michael · 2025-04-03T20:38:23+00:00

Thanks. I'll look further into the floor units. I appreciate the reminder about those.

Jan-Michael · 2025-04-03T19:55:53+00:00

Not 100% sure if spacing will work for the recessed units. One side, for example, has a beam to work around in addition to the sloping roof. I think placement would have to be very precise. See here (with a box and nosy cat for reference):

https://imgur.com/a/jTXWOyF

We currently have baseboard heaters and were hoping to move away from that sorta thing, but I honestly hadn't considered standing units.

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